NirVTEC

What would you do? B20 block B18 head?
Just curious......Tired of searching through 5-10yr old threads with 90% monkeys posting.
Thought this topic may give the smart ones a chance to share some mental/paper builds you've had.......
Just toying with some ideas for the future of my Teg that has 180k miles on the C1.
Being an H series guy, I always assume Bigger is Better......
Thanks guys! Feeling like a N00b again

m_shake

I'd do b20 block, itr crank, gsr/itr rods, and whatever piston and head that will net me 11.5:1

88Hatchy

Why on earth would you want to complicate things like that?

NirVTEC

Whats special about the ITR crank? Hand finished?
B/c of obd2, this setup would never see more than VAFC+Tuning
Obd1 isn't an option.....

Seems like using a Non-OEM piston is a must to get decent compression from the 84mm bore....

GSR block+LS crank/rods+ITR pistons+C1 head seems like fun B)

Reason I am curious, buying some random C1 shortblock seems like a waste, as does installing such a heartless motor after the labor.....

m_shake

Because I can, and ill gladly give up a bit of torque and hp for a more stout bottom end

Builda'Teg_92

ITR crank weighs more due to the counter weights for safer high revving.

m_shake

rs machine are proven to work just fine no worries on no good oem 84mm pistons

NirVTEC

I guess I should add, NOT LOOKING FOR SOME CRAZY HP BUILD........
It appears that Non OEM pistons may be an option though.....I guess I can thank Honda for NOT using FRM. <<--Possibly the 1st time I have said that.....haha
FRM hasn't run my life like most people make it seem with the H series. Funny thing is a majority have never run into a problem b/c of FRM b/c they never made it past bolt-ons, but found it useful to hate on FRM in every other post.
Do I remember reading somewhere that stock B20 sleeves are a little sketchy?

I guess it depends on what you're doing with the car.......Can't think of many times I'd sacrifice HP/TQ for strength in a DD Street Car. Double downshifts and high-revving gets old fast......

FlewByU352

It only gets old fast if you aren't going fast when doing it.

OH_1fstgsr

iTrader: (2)

Get your GSR block sleeved and get some 84mm pistons. Use your stock GSR crank and Rods. A compression ratio around 11:1 will yield you a very nice set-up.

jdmcivic2fast

i would do b20block/rs 84mm itr style pistons/p8r b20 head because of the bigger in. valves.

cams choice is where your weak point is on these motors if you staying with oem stuff.

NirVTEC

Yeah.....not an option. If I were going all out.......The 1st thing out would be the B

ITR cams or possibly some sort of Stage1? I tuned the **** out of my H22 with S2Stage1s and a VAFC+Cam Gears.
How well does the stock B20 head flow compared to the B16/B18? Not looking to do any sort of headwork or a/m valvetrain. Was thinking ITR goodies in my C1 head would work good......

Builda'Teg_92

[QUOTE=NirVTEC;46171581]
GSR block+LS crank/rods+ITR pistons+C1 head seems like fun B)

QUOTE]


Never been a fan.

NirVTEC

[QUOTE=Builda'Teg_92;46172086]How come? Bad R/S ratio or something?
11.25:1CR and 1834cc

4genaccordfreak

If you are not looking for ridiculous numbers, but want something easily achievable and reliable, yet fun and peppy to drive. I used this setup daily driven during the summer, at numerous lapping days and quite afew drag nights at the track.

Here's my 100% OEM Honda Internals (including some ARP equipment) B18c setup in my EJ1 civic.

specs on the motor:

JDM B18c GSR block
New Honda bearings, rings, seals
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod bolts
ARP Headstuds
B16a-PR3 pistons (bumps up c/r to approx. 11:1 c/r)
Honda CTR crank pulley
Honda Headgasket

JDM B18c GSR Head
ITR cams
1mm oversized intake valves (aftermarket) sorry*
Exhaust-side dual valvespring upgrade (from intake-side of a spare head)
new valve guides and seals
mild porting/smoothing to match the oversized intake valves
Hondata I/m gasket
Skunk2 version 1 intake manifold
stock TB
Custom 3" 304 Stainless short ram intake (made by me)
K&N filter
Spoon plug-wires
NGK G-power plugs
PCV and VC vented to a Carbing catch-can
Vision Technica 4-1 Header
2.5" test-pipe
2.5" T1R mid-pipe
Fujitsubo Giken Legalis R muffler

USDM ITR 4.4FD Trans
Competition Clutch 2300
Competition Clutch ST Flywheel

Completely rebuilt the engine myself in may and has run like a champ ever since.

Conservatively Crome Tuned to 9200rpm

Made 184whp/128tq on a Mustang Dyno

sorry don't have the graph scanned on my comp.

Builda'Teg_92

^^yea pretty much a bad R/S, about 16% more side wall load, more vibration ect. too me it just seems sloppy (at least with oem hardware). im an F1 kinda guy. The faster the mean piston speed, the happier i am.

Work together with your C1. just sayin

SteelcityLude

b20 bottom, rs-machine or ycp itr replicas, recondition the rods, arp rod bolts, and main studs... use your gsr head, (the b20/ls p75 head flows like garb... good luck finding a p8r head and even better yet good luck finding valves for one if ever needed.) itr cams, are and what about stuff like cam gears, intake manifold and header and stuff does it all have to be oem? lol

NirVTEC

Thats what I am talking about

tempsohc

b20b block stock, gsr head,itr cams, B16a intake manifold,Itr header cast or jdm 4-1.

Should make near 200 and have gobs of midrange-upper torque. power will fall off hard at 8k if not slightly earlier. Real reliable!

96dxB16

What did you get 1mm oversized OEM intake valves from?

4genaccordfreak

Was this directed at me or above my first post?


My bad, I forgot to mention the oversized valves were aftermarket. I'm sure if I was crazy enough i could have given the machine shop h22a intake valves to be fitted. HAHA

SteelcityLude

b16a intake manifold doesnt fit the gsr head.

and 1mm oversize valves arent oem and a waste of money on this type of build if the proper mods and tuning arent there

4genaccordfreak

This is true. They were already done on the head (which was used on a turbo setup) if I had the choice I would not have done them. Although I am building another block for boost this winter so the head will work out more in my favour as it sits now.

jdmcivic2fast

p8r head still flows less than the b vtec heads because of smaller ports and smaller csa.

but nevermind about the b20 heads didt see that you wanted to use the c1 head instead.
i would do this:

b16 head instead
stock std. size valves
CTR/ITR cams
CTR/ITR intake manifold
ITR jdm header

b20 block
rs itr 84mm pistons
stock rods/ arp rod bolts
ls/b20 crank

Builda'Teg_92

To the OP.