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Okay, so spare me the “sell it all and buy a type-S” talk.
I bought a 2004 type-s from Copart in Dec. 2020. It was advertised as a non runner/non driver. The body looked decent in the pictures, but it was a northern car from Michigan. I bid and won the auction. I loaded up the trailer and drove from Nashville to Michigan to get it. I bought it assuming it needed an engine. I priced one out locally for $1k.
when I got the type a home, I threw a socket on the crank pulley to try and hand turn it. To no one’s surprise, it was locked up. I pulled the swap, and I found holes in the block. Upon further tear down, one rod was snapped in half and one rod was bent.
I swapped in the motor and got it running. But I started finding rust all over the place. I thought it was salvageable, but as it turns out, the rust was just too much. I was pulling rust from the rockers with my bare hands. The floor pan was separated from the body in parts. It was just too much to deal with.
so I started searching for rollers. I found one locally. No rust. It’s a base, but I didn’t care bc i would swap all my type S parts over to the base. The only issue is the base is an auto. So I have to do the auto to manual swap.
I found this article on it. http://vtec.academy/auto-to-manual-part-2/
my main concern is wiring the clutch switches and reverse lights. I have a full complete dash harness in my donor car that I can swap out. But it means removing the dash one two different cars and swapping the harness. But when I read that link, his instructions for wiring the clutch switches and reverse lights really doesn’t make sense.
if you were in my shoes, what would you do? Bite the bullet and swap the dash harness, or wire the clutch switches as the guy in the link above did.
For the clutch interlock switch: You'll need to get a harness connector for the clutch interlock switch. There are two wires to connect: Black wire goes to chassis ground. Light Green wire goes to the Lt Green wire at Under-dash fuse box Connector D, terminal no. 7 for the Starter Cut Relay.
For the reverse light switch (back-up light switch): The Yellow wire from the switch goes to Connector D, terminal no. 11 and the Grn/Wht wire from the switch goes to the green wire at Connector D, terminal no. 8.
For the clutch interlock switch: You'll need to get a harness connector for the clutch interlock switch. There are two wires to connect: Black wire goes to chassis ground. Light Green wire goes to the Lt Green wire at Under-dash fuse box Connector D, terminal no. 7 for the Starter Cut Relay.
For the reverse light switch (back-up light switch): The Yellow wire from the switch goes to Connector D, terminal no. 11 and the Grn/Wht wire from the switch goes to the green wire at Connector D, terminal no. 8.
I am fairly certain that is the same guy who wrote the blog post I shared in my original post.
I ended up just removing the dash. Turns out it’s easier to change the pedals. Honestly not sure if it would be possible to change pedals without removing the dash. This is from the donor car. Notice the rust in the floor. It was a mess. Removing the dash wasn’t that bad. Took me an hour to do by myself. Getting it out of the car was a bit cumbersome. Had to bug my stepbrother’s girlfriend to have her help me carry it out and get it to the barn.
08-20-2022, 11:05 AM
RSX Auto to manual swap question…
