product

I know, I know "Not Another Idle Thread!"

I'm sorry, but it seems to be a unique set of symptoms, mine is a situation that I could not find any other cases of.

The main problem with my '00 ITR is as follows:
Once the car is warmed up it Idles well, BUT when it is moving the idle is up at 2000 rpm until it comes to a complete stop. Someone referred to it as the 'Rolling Idle'

From a cold start it idles at about 1200, and slowly, VERY slowly goes up to about 1700 to 2000 and stays there. Once it is warmed up and I turn off the car and start it again It idles fine (except the rolling idle) This makes me suspect something electrical rather than mechanical.

I am highly suspicious of the IACV because of the following reasons.

1) I swapped it with the one off my LS and it made the rolling Idle go down to about 1500 rpm. (the IACV from my LS had a smaller hole, so it was not the correct part, BUT it does work and it made the idle on my ITR behave differently)

2) I swapped it for one I purchased off ebay that was obviously old and well used, It made the idle much higher, and I could not adjust the idle to spec, it was always high no matter how much I adjusted the Idle screw (properly of course)

3) Idle from a cold start stays high until it is warmed up, and i turn it off and back on again.

ALL THESE PROBLEMS HAVE BEEN CORRECTED
The car has an after market, adjustable FPR - REPLACED WITH OEM
Throwing a primary O2 sensor CEL & a catalyst below spec CEL - REPLACED BOTH FRONT AND REAR O2
The A/C was disconnected by the previous owner. - REPLACED AC BRACKET, COMPRESSOR PULLY NOW SPINS FREELY AND IS CONNECTED WITH A NEW BELT

Anybody ever have a problem with a high Rolling Idle?
Is there any thing else I should try before I drop $160+ on a NEW IACV?


Modified by product at 4:52 PM 1/31/2007


Modified by product at 12:26 PM 2/11/2007

pyitrboy

your fast idle control valve may be the culprit.

product

its a 2000, it doesn't have one.

product

anybody ever see a n idle stay up high while the car is rolling?

andyt

Timing?

Edit:
I looked up the IACV test procedure and it says:
Start the engine and hold it at 3000 RPM until the radiator fan comes on.
Then check the engine idle speed with no load (nothing on).
If the idle is off, but LOW, then replace IAC valve.
If the idle is high, take off the intake tube, and put your finger over the upper port in the throttle body. If the engine speed drops, you have either a vacuum leak, or a problem with the throttle body.
If the engine speed doesn't drop, adjust the idle.
I love this part, "If that is impossible" replace the IAC valve.



Modified by andyt at 5:14 PM 1/31/2007

product

SOLVED!

it was the TPS, it was installed without being lined up properly.... fixed it and all is good.

Haleiwa-Brando

I was going to say...the IACV wouldn't do anything. That is to help warm the car up in cold climates.

My guess was going to be the TPS sensor, the idle screw or the throttle stop screw.

Right on man

product

yeah, driving her around is so much better now that i don't rev at every car I pull up next to!

I am resetting the ECU at the moment, and hope to get rid of the 'primary o2 sensor' CEL and perhaps gain a few MPG at the same time.