jimmypol

Hi all, I recently came across a used Mugen Intake in good condition and at a very nice price. I couldn't resist buying it even though it was missing this piece:



I've already installed it, and it works great, came with it's original filter, brackets, etc.

My only concern is, should I be scared of hydro-locking the car because of the intake not having this piece?

Thanks.

RagingAngel

you're going to have to drive through some pretty deep puddles (small lake) to draw a lot of water into the intake. The Mugen intake as you know is huge.... it's pretty hard to suck up that much volume unless you're really trying hard.

RockinaRHard

that part is what helps to correct and smooth the in coming air flow, I suggest getting it.

jimmypol

I would if I knew where to look for it. I wouldn't even know how to call it for searching it around the net. Any ideas? My guess is, it will be extremely hard to find it.

BoS_DC2

kingmotorsports.com

jimmypol

I searched a bit and some people call it the intake trumpet. I don't think King Motorsports sells the trumpet separately.

It would be nice to find it, but I think the only workaround would be to have it custom built and I'm not sure if it's worth the effort...unless it makes it safer for the reason I created this thread, which was if there's more chances, or not, of hydro-locking the car.

The reason I started to think about it is because, obviously, since the trumpet goes up a couple of inches and points upwards, it makes it harder for a puddle to reach it. Without the trumpet, the intake ends up a little lower and facing straight to the side.

get RIGHT

I have never seen that piece sold seperately. If it where me, a piece of dryer hose could be taped and ran thru where the snorkel goes to give you the same effect.

When I am at the track I angle my snorkel facing foward and remove the pass side turn signal. It makes for a great ram air. Dryer hose could still give you this flexability.

UTutes98

you can always fabricate one out of fiberglass yourself...or just go through your local honda forums for local people that specialize in fiberglass/ plastic fabrication...that piece will help you out alot!!

Ryan_C

I think I may have lost mine. If my memory serves me right, I don't remember seeing my intake horn (I think that's what the instructions called it). But I may have it stored away in some box in the garage. I have been cleaning out the garage lately, so hopefully I come across minez.

chrisdavis6

If it is a 3" or 3.5" diameter at the connection i would slap a bpi stack minus the filter on there.
You would probably have better results over the original mugen piece.

get RIGHT

You would slap a velocity stack in place of the snorkel? ROFL. So you know, the Mugen intakes comes wih a velocity stack as part of it.

chrisdavis6

ROFL???

Why not? It can only improve airflow.

get RIGHT

Hahahaha. That just made my day. I am sincerely hoping you are joking about asking why. It would really be funny if you where serious.

Mugen Type R

The intake's performance is definatly incomplete without it. Forget about the hydrolock for the reasons stated above, although a veocity stack would help if he doesn't have the trumpet, that dryer idea aimed at a bumper hole up front would probably help performances. So basically your options are either get it custom built, by that seperate velocity stack from that link or hook up a dryer tube to the bumper onto it. Whatever you choose, please don't leave it without it, it would probably affect the performance you were buying it to get in the first place.

George Knighton

I hate to appear to disagree with people, but my inclination is to say that if he has all three of the parts on the right of the photo, the filter and the metal accelerator with clamp, then he is probably getting almost all of the performance that the Mugen intake is famous for on the Honda B motors.

Certainly there is a theoretical argument for wanting a smoother intake, but I get the feeling that some of the posters are confusing the parts of the intake. The Mugen is famous for adding power to the B motor, and several people have admitted to the couple of secrets involved, but I really think that some of us are confusing the single part that is responsible for the majority of this power.

It's not the part at the beginning of the intake that is the big part of the power, it's the part that is attached to the air filter, in combination with a perfectly designed plenum chamber that helps with throttle response.

Mugen Type R

While I agree that the intake probably makes most of its gains from the rest of the parts he already owns, he might be losing a minor 5 or 10%(i just pulled that number out my ***, sue me) of the overall initial air channeling, thus compromising a part of the performance, but only computer plugged in to a car in action with and without it could really comfirm any of our affirmations.

George Knighton

LOL.... I am not even sure what that means! :-p

I agree that there would be a minor difference in the efficiency of the air being drawn into the intake under high RPM.

But I'm going to maintain that we are making the guy paranoid over a relatively tiny bit of the overall perceived increase in performance associated with the Mugen retail intake.

The biggest perceived gain is that the air box plenum chamber is a perfect size to keep pressure against the throttle plate under varying conditions.

The biggest actual gain is that they found a way to have a high velocity air flow at the point the intake stops and the air tube to the intake manifold begins.

If I were the owner of that intake, I would not for a second consider wasting any time or money trying to make up for not having that end piece on the intake.

Not that I can pretend to know much about this stuff, of course.

Mugen Type R

[QUOTE=George Knighton;37757997]
I agree that there would be a minor difference in the efficiency of the air being drawn into the intake under high RPM.
[QUOTE]

Thanks your honor, I rest my case

get RIGHT

Thats 100% correct.

Thats why that photoshop is so hillarious. Air only flows in the way it is directed. Just because you can add 3 velocity stacks to an intake does not make it 3x better. The air is only going to flow in the direction of the last velocity stack it encounters. In this case that is the one that is originally supplied from Mugen.


Correct. Which is why there is one at that spot from the get go.

jdmspoonitr

iTrader: (1)

Well the idea for that piece in the first place from Mugen is so that the airflow is less turbulent on it's way through the snorkel. It's not going to make a huge difference like GK said, but it's part of the design.

And for those wondering if there is any possible benefit. I pointed that snorkel right at the front bumper and had a Z-Spec bumper duct which line up almost perfectly with it. So I had air coming straight through the front bumper to the intake.

Trunkz

FWIW ..... my car dynoed 191 whp with the help of that intake without the piece being discussed. The particular set of bolt ons on the car are a very common set up amongst ITR owners, and i have many cars to compare mine to. I feel strongly that the missing piece made little to zero difference in torque/power.

I have the piece and need to reinstall it. Once it has been put back on i will re-dyno the car to give you all a true indication of its importance.

chrisdavis6

If you have access to a dyno all the time, just for the hell of it you should do a run with
a velocity stack in place of the snorkel if you have access to one.
If needed i would buy one and send it to you and then re-sell it on eBay when
we were done with the testing. I love doing R&D stuff.

That is assuming you have a buddy at the shop and dont have to pay for dyno time.

Mugen Type R

Dude, a dyno isint like having the wind jam forced down the funnel on the track, that intake probably makes your car perform even better with the piece on in track conditions, may it be 1hp, if it was lined up to another piece it would make a difference compared to dyno.

jimmypol

Thanks a lot for all of your inputs.

I bought the intake along with the Twin Loop exhaust as a combo, the price was more than right, it was practically a give out, plus it's in very good condition, so that's why I didn't mind it not having the snorkel.

I installed the intake right away and felt the difference (without having the Twin Loop installed yet), no doubt, so I'm guessing, as others have mentioned, that the snorkel is not going to be worth the effort of having someone to fabricate it, etc.

My main concern was if the chances of hydro-locking could be higher just because of the fact that the snorkel (if positioned as in the picture) goes up a bit and would make it even harder for water to make it through. I live in the Dominican Republic and our weather is very unpredictable, and we do get big puddles in some places around the city if it was raining hard for a long period of time. But if the consensus is that the intake is still safe as it is right now, then that takes the concern away I guess. I'd think that it also helps me that the R has stock suspension at stock height right now, maybe if I lower it in the future then I'll have to be a bit more cautious.

If Trunkz wants to do the Dyno run just to confirm the effect of no snorkel power-wise, then great, that would be cool.

Thanks again guys.

Trunkz

I appreciate your input as i hadn't thought of that. Keep in mind that unless you remove your turn signal marker, the intake is not receiving air "jam forced down the funnel on track" either.

I believe the amount of air received while driving vs the amount of air supplied by the fan in front of the dyno are comparable as well.

I am only offering my thoughts and personal experience with this. I do not claim to be a know it all. What i do know is that we are discussing a very insignificant detail, one that none of us could actually feel a difference enough to be bothered by it.