DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

So i got my ITR swap and im about to drop it in to my EJ6 and wanted to know what you guys think of my setup as of now.

- JDM B18C
- S80 LSD Tranny
- DC 4-1 Header
- AEM Fuel Rail
- RC 310cc Injectors
- AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
- AEM short ram intake
- Exedy Stage 2 Clutch
- Exedy 9 lb Flywheel
- VAFC-2
- Chipped P28
- Test pipe
- Apex'i WSII


Once i get everything together it will be street tuned. i just got the AEM wideband a/f gauge. Just lookin to get some feedback if ive got a good start, what i should be looking into next, if ive done some things wrong....w/e....any input is good...This is not a DD, i have a pick-up truck i drive 50/50 with this. Only on nice days the Civic comes out. If you were in my shoes, what would be your next step...im going to get it all together and drive it for a lil bit, (i need to finish my interior, $$$$$, $$$$$, $$$$$) but if you were in my driver seat, what would be your next step?

thanks guys,

Dc2

preludegofast13

The next step really depends on what you want to do with the car. You could go a bit more compression and build n/a or you could turbo what you got. I'd concentrate on getting a good suspension setup/brakes/wheels and tires after the motor goes in.

The current setup of the car sounds pretty good. It should run pretty good the way you have it after you get a decent tune on the P28.

Its up to you.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

ohh..i forgot to mention...no turbo...im a n/a *****....

suspension is decent...nothing to brag about...but i need to get some add-ons like strut and sway bars, a lil reinforcement is def needed....

my brakes...im getting drilled brembo rotors with new pads in stock sizes awfully soon...

and wheel....im about to buy the SSK TE-37 reps black with the time attack lip...with some new stickies!!!

97CWITR

The stock fuel rail and regulator can support 500+whp on a turbo set up so Im sure it'll be fine on yours. Don't waste your money.
The DC header is useless, and you're better getting a jdm 4-1 for the same price.

You really haven't listed anything to add hp...You have a crappy intake, header, and restrictive exhaust. You're better off with the stock everything, rather than changing to the parts you're just throwing together to make the car 'look' better...

Don't bother with the light show aka VAFC when you're street tuning.

IMO.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

I already have these parts, i had them from my B16 build.

Im thinking about getting a Velocity Stack for the intake, ive only had good experiences with this header, ive had it on two different B-Series but the JDM 4-1 was def a thought, once i get some more $$$. Why not use the test pipe? I want it to have as little restriction as possible until it gets to the exhaust. Figure throwin the test pipe would accomplish that. And why not bother with the VAFC for street tuning? what do you suggest i use to tune then?

01_ITR

If you dont want to sink your money in a nice header/exhaust set up right now like that of toda/smsp, then go with the jdm 4-1 or the rmf replica which is currently for sale by on of the HT sponsors. As for intake, velocity stack is good but comptech icebox or mugen would be your best bet. They have proven to give good numbers. If your going n/a im not sure why you have larger injectors or fuel rail, they will give you a little more flow but nothing i would have gone out of my way to buy unless this all came with the swap. If your running a p28 ecu then youll need a nice tune. Like others have posted, but im just emphasizing you dont really need a lot of your stuff. Test pipes are going to make the car louder and are illegal, if this is your daily i would really stick with dmv rules and run a cat. SMSP makes a great cat, tell him what your current set up is, ie header and exhaust and he will fab one up, these have also proven themselves on the dyno. VAFC is not needed. You can run a usdm or jdm ecu and be fine, but if you already have a p28 then youll need a tune as i previous stated, but any good tuner will be able to tune your car without a VAFC, your not going to want to chage your setting with a daily anyway.

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

...one more time...lol....I already have all of these parts.....so there is no money im wasting because i already have them. I know the test pipe is illegal but how many times has a cop crawled underneath your car to see what kind of exhaust your running? never seen it once. I have the JDM ecu as well, but the P28 is already chipped and is going to be easier to tune.

97CWITR

So why are you asking for our opinion if you already have the parts and are putting them on anyway?!

If you're worried about a "free flowing exhaust" then ditch the DC header, run a cat, and ditch the WS exhaust.

HP costs $$$
You either spend the money and make power or throw crappy inefficent parts all over your car randomly and hope...

Not sure why you need a basically stock engine tuned...but it'll still make a small diference...

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

hmmm...idk...maybe because i just got the ITR motor and figured id ask people who have already done mods to the same engine what they think of what ive got and where im goin...i figured this was a site to HELP people, not to say nothing but negative things about how people are doing things wrong and not telling them or suggesting a more positive solution. I mean correct me if im wrong but i thought it was ok to ask ?'s....

and im going to tune it because it is not going to be using the stock fuel pressure, maps, or injectors. So rather then burning too rich and burning up my motor, im going to get it tuned so that doesnt happen. I never said anything about a "Free Flowing Exhaust" i said i would use the test pipe to keep as little restriction as possible since the WSII is restrictive enough in itself.

So then if you were in my shoes, as i stated in the first post, what would you do then? If you just got a JDM B18C swap and wanted to step it up a little, what would you be doing?

97CWITR

I would definitely leave off the fuel rail, regulator, and injectors, and sell them. Get a good header (hytech, rage, an-r, smsp), get a smsp cat (or similar), and an intake (mugen, or something with a velocity stack). Then get it professionally tuned on a dyno for your setup.

That's a good start with quality parts that will actually be worth something rather than getting fuel components with nothing that requires them....

When you start adding more air, and your tuner suggests adding more fuel, then you can add injectors only. That's all you'll need.

HFP_racing

yes let go of the vafc an get hondata,crome or wutever...intake with velocity stack, some nice header...no dc plz...idk wuts the mesaurement of the apexi but go with a 2.5 exhaust setup or just rebuilt the motor more comp,pnp head bigger cams..

DC2-ProdUcTiOnS

iTrader: (2)

if i dont use these parts...i have to go buy replacements....so i dont see the point there. The fuel rail and injectors will only let out as much as the regulator or ECU is allowing. so once i get it tuned it really wont matter. do i NEED those parts? NO i understand that....do i have them, YES, will it hurt me putting them on when tuned correctly? NO i dont think so...

brewcity

iTrader: (1)

YOU are asking US what we would do. If your so content on keeping the low quality aftermarket parts, what is there for us to comment on what WE would do? This makes little sense. Everyone is saying you need better parts, which is true. DC is garbage. WS is restrictive, and your intake is junk. Thats just a fact.

Personally, You need a new header first and foremost. Spend the $1000 and get a header that will be useful and sell off the DC one to offset 200$ or so. I have a Toda header and love it. Ground clearance is great and it makes power. Get a better intake (gains will be minimal between intakes depending on brand compared to what the header will do) with a velocity stack. The exhaust is somewhat restrictive, but I run a RSR Exmag which is similar and I love the sound and looks and works for my mild setup.

Since your content with your suspension, cams might be the next thing to invest in without spending an arm and a leg to build the motor. With the good products you add, you can look at ~200 whp without doing any serious motorwork (other than adding cams and valvetrain).

racebum

i keep wanting to add something but everyone else has given you great advice. the new skunk2 header would be a great fit if you're doing the test pipe game. donF in all motor tested it against a few others and the numbers were wonderful. dump that dc and spend a little more on a decent piece. 180whp is do-able with stock cams and 200whp can be done with cams and a vt upgrade. i also agree with everyone else on you listing a lot of nothing. i guess since you already have it you can try & make it work though. personally i'm a fan of either all stock or a planned build where everything is considered before the first wrench is turned. at least the aem is a good fpr

jyang408

the dc header is fine! to all you hatters who know nothing about exhaust flow, the dc header this dude have will do fine. by putting in a expensive hytech or smsp header is not worth it and trust me you wont run any faster with it, especially if your running full exhaust or open exhaust. so if im runing 13.2 with the dc headers than switch to a hytech i will run 12's...? basically that's what i mean. i tune high performance cars all the time. and trust me a header is for better flow and hytech, dc, smsp, toda all make small margin difference if the car is tune right for each header. if you are building a super all motor and even 1hp means the world to you than yeah go for the expansive headers. just my experience guys

jyang408

your set up should get you in the mid 13's if not your doing something wrong. i got the same motor in my DA integra and im running low 13's with skunk2 stage 1 cams. same headers with a cold air intake, over bore T/B and port intake mani match, same ecu and minor tuning with a apexi vafc. dont do too much at once, do one mod at a time and adjust each mod prier to installation and your be fine.