Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hector12t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone know what the sensor does that is on line number #4 if i disconect it will i get a CEL</TD></TR></TABLE>

No CEL, read the thread.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djroven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump !

Need seller for removal kit ! or list of type/number parts that I can buy to make my own kit.

Thanks !</TD></TR></TABLE>

I literally did this conversion today... based entirely on info in this thread. Really great thread that's still alive after 6 years.

M14 1.5 and M16 1.5 threads for the two fittings to the rack. Get barbed fittings that will thread onto these fittings. Get whatever sized hose fits the barbed fittings. Get a plastic Y or T to connect these hoses. Get more hose for the last leg of the Y or T to run to the breather or res. DONE.

SuperTuner12010

Were are the pictures? I need pictures...

Blk00EJ8

You don't need pictures... the two lines attached to the power steering pump and reservoir are the two lines you're removing from the steering rack. In goes the two new fittings and the hoses. Tee them together and run a hose up to a breather... simple.

92integraVTECgsr

bump

TspEk9

bump does anyone have any pics of this mod?, i took out my ps pump,resivoir, return hose and pressure hose, then i looped the pressure and return. now should i cut the metal line on the rack that looks like brake line and T it?

95jeremie

hot damn
"how can i reach these kids" (ha ha south park)
the 2 hoses that ran to the pump
install a T/Y at the end of them to connect them together
install a short piece of hose to the open end of the T/Y
run that hose up to a breather/reservoir
how hard is that?
i haven't even done this or even looked at my rack but i could understand it...
and now my car is stolen and couldn't do it if i wanted

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need pictures... the two lines attached to the power steering pump and reservoir are the two lines you're removing from the steering rack. In goes the two new fittings and the hoses. Tee them together and run a hose up to a breather... simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>

PJ_Sir

Pictures and where you can buy a kit too.

http://www.hondatuningmagazine....html

91CivicSir

Picked up a GSR Rack from a local Junk yard and modded the rack to a manual and it cost me a little over 20 dollars in parts from NAPA.
1= Brass T fitting $3.95
8= Hose clamps $6.32
4ft.= Trans Oil Hose 3/8 $10.76
Picked up a Clutch reservoir at a junk yard $Free

Looped the main rack In/Out lines. About 10 inch piece (this is necessary you do not want it to short, it will kink and prevent flow.)



In the center of the rack there is a 1/4 in metal line that runs from one side of the rack to the other, this is were you will be adding the T fitting. Before you cut be sure that you try to be centered on this metal line, I cut a 4 to 5 inch section out of this line, then attached the T fitting with two pieces of the Trans Oil Hose about 3 in pieces each side of T fitting. Before securing this fitting, be sure to align it a little more towards the steering column in order to clear the rear tranny mount and bracket. I guess for some of those out there don't forget to use your Hose clamps to secure the hoses.



Then to finish it up Add the remaining hose to the third post on the T fitting. You will want to direct the T fitting slightly angled toward the front of your car, this is to clear the rear engine brace and mount again. Attach your clutch reservoir and and find yourself a good place to mount. I found that on my 93 Civic hatch the fuel filter had a bracket that was not used and with some slight bending to accommodate the angle of the clutch reservoir bracket seemed to be a perfect place for my breather reservoir.



It is actually a very easy mod, in fact removing all the power steering **** is the hard part.

avaldez

i was trying to do this on my 93 accord and dont know what to do....
any help anybody??? thanks

Dropspeed

This thing is still going?

..............I did a search because I have been thinking about doing this now to my Evolution

Matt

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dropspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> This thing is still going?

..............I did a search because I have been thinking about doing this now to my Evolution

Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>Yep and THANK YOU for the wonderful contribution. Your legacy lives on

moonglow 600-piece

Why not to use baby air-filter (crankcase breather) for rack to breathe? Can attach directly on end of fittings at bottom of rack instead of running long hose and catcher all the way up top of engine bay..

What to think you guys?

Like this one:

cjames235

because the rack still needs fuid in it..... if you just attach a breather to it, it will end up pushing most of the fluid out and end up dry................ that would be just like unhooking the lines and leaving it like that

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moonglow 600-piece &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not to use baby air-filter (crankcase breather) for rack to breathe? Can attach directly on end of fittings at bottom of rack instead of running long hose and catcher all the way up top of engine bay..

What to think you guys?

Like this one:

</TD></TR></TABLE>I can not speak for all. So, I'll use "in my case" . In my case, the reason I ran the "long hose and catcher all the way up top of engine bay" is because I want the rack to hold more fluid for better lubrication. With your suggestion, there will be very little to none fluid in the rack. This may cause the rack to fail prematurely.

Dropspeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW-ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can not speak for all. So, I'll use "in my case" . In my case, the reason I ran the "long hose and catcher all the way up top of engine bay" is because I want the rack to hold more fluid for better lubrication. With your suggestion, there will be very little to none fluid in the rack. This may cause the rack to fail prematurely.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Correct.......you still need some fluid in the rack.....and it is still under pressure when you turn left to right. The reason for the longer breather line to the tank is so fluid does not "shoot out".....With a breahter attached to the rack you wil be leaking fluid until the rack runs out.

Matt

moonglow 600-piece

Thnaks for "quote" my words inquisition. Question answer appreciates talk back. Worried but now feel good that knows korrect rack aspiration device placement. figure application

Thnaks agin.

As to you

Ronal wheels fit proper now thnaks to all your help

see rolling i am in the streets of Vilnius for now summertime comes!

citrus3000psi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dropspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reason for the longer breather line to the tank is so fluid does not "shoot out".....
Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even with the line and breather mine still shoots out sometimes.

However only seems to do it when autocrossing, normal driving and track driving do not.

nahledge

Does anybody have any pics of this done on an EK. Searched and can't seem to find one.

mamonster

been reading the thread for about more than an hour...

my Power steering on my mazda 323 protege went stiff, and has some oil leaks from the rack and pinion, went out and replace oil seals, power steering kit, but after installing back everything, steering became stiffer, so I'm planning to do this mod,

power to manual...hope that it will work fine with my ride,

or what if I drain all the ATF, remove pistons, or oil seals from hydraulic rack and pinion, then replace them with grease then close all the open ports loop incoming and outgoing, will it work?

mamonster

will this mod work for me?

http://flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

I hate to break it to ya. I don't think this mod is for you and your car. This mod will make your steering feel even stiffer. As far as "drain all the ATF, remove pistons, or oil seals from hydraulic rack and pinion, then replace them with grease then close all the open ports loop incoming and outgoing", I think it will make the steering feel worst and shorten the rack's life span.

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

My hat off the OP and the thread that will not die. I followed this and did the mod on my caR years ago and I can say that, by far, this is one of the best mods I ever did to the caR.

mamonster

tnx...sir cw-itr pm sent need your help badly

mamonster

the mods of dropspeed

will it be like the following?

http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/ho...-20-bucks.html

I see no picture with the thread so I made some research, if anyone can tell if they are thesame please do so..

tnx....

CW-ITR

iTrader: (11)

Yep, they are the same.