iboughtas2k

Hello everyone
I am scheduled to inspect a 2000 PY ITR w/90000 miles. Bone stock 2 owners car, clean carfax.

Obviously i have not seen the car in person but from the pictures he has sent me. It looks to be in very good conditions compare to the ones i have seen so far. We came to an agreement for $12,800 cash.

Do you think im getting a decent deal? Im gonna bring my OBD2 scanner and lift the car at the shop. If everything seems to be fine. Im gonna pull the trig..

Is therr anything that i should be concerned about when buying used ITR?

Any inputs will be appreciated!

mafia

Just look for matching vin stickers on all the panels.
Try to see if it smokes alot while in vtec.
other then that Its like buying any other car.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Price seems pretty accurate as far as mileage. Its hard to say without more details. Good luck, hope it works out for you.

SpoonREVS

price sound pretty good if its a clean title mtching vins all original.... yeah just make sure doesnt smoke, or theres oil/smoke on the bumper check all vin numbers on all the body panels transmission and engine make sure they match

kyosoeg6

iTrader: (7)

there should be a vin sticker on every body panel including hood and bumper. the bumper may be hard to see.

also check for a green vin plate at the bottom of the block towards the oil pan seal and on the transmission. make sure the bolts have fresh heads and dont look like they have been replaced or removed. i think if all of that checks out than your car should be pretty solid.

Dave_B

Run a carfax, I'd start there.

Drive it and listen for noises and such.

Check the oil and see what the oil level is at

Check VIN's around the car

iboughtas2k

Thank you everyone for replies.
Yes. VIN labels are the one that i always make sure when buying a honda. I saw all VIN on all penels. However. I saw light weight pulley installed on the engine. Is something that i should concern about ? I wanna put it back to stock pulley. Everything else was fine
Car felt solid. Engine oil level was good.

I told the seller to let me sleep on it til saturday.
What do you all think? Should i get this?
I hope the pulley is easy to put back to factory

Utilitarian

That price seems fair, if it's clean with no surprises.

A few things I'd check:

-the 1-2 shift at high rpms. Grinding = worn syncros
-motor mounts. Does the engine 'buck' or feel extra touchy on/off throttle?
-rust. Be sure to check the undercarriage and wheel wells, and spare tire well for rust. This could indicate a leak, which often means past accidents.
-compression. If you can borrow a compression tester, and don't mind pulling a few spark plugs, it's not a bad idea to possibly indicate a bad valve and/or piston rings.
-clutch. I like to test drive any car and make sure it can get going on a flat surface in 2nd. If it can't do this, it's on the way out...
-ask about oil consumption and check it right away. This is the biggest unknown with these cars. Some drink it, some sip it. I've had both scenarios.

If it's all stock, make sure you budget for a t-belt replacement (don't take anyone's word and insist on receipts), motor mounts, rotors/pads, and shocks if they're the originals.

GL!
-Matt

JoseCuervo

iTrader: (4)

Going to add my .02 cents here in an attempt to help you out. I know you will be very excited at the time, but please do not overlook any of the items I'm about to share with you or the ones that have been mentioned already. I will try to cover as much as possible here.
-Like some have said already, check the VIN numbers on all panels. This usually means the vehicle has not been in any sort of accident, but that's not always the case. Some minor accidents do not require replacement of body panels.
-Check the body panels for proper alignment. Take your time with this procedure. Look for missing clips/fasterners and such. Do this during day time. The worst time to look at a vehicle is at sunset/night time.
-Carfax is a good approach, but will not always give you the complete story. Carfax is good for maintenance and work done under warranty or through insurance. It's also good to find out approximately how many owners the vehicle has had. I say approximately because this only holds true if someone registers the vehicle under their name. For example, if I was to take my DC2 to a body shop to do a JDM front end conversion or a complete LHD to RHD conversion, paid by me, do you think it will show on the Carfax?!?!
-Oil consumption, whether a little or too much, is pretty much inherent with all ITR's, so don't be surprised if you see some. Oil on the bumber is definitely a bad sign, but smoke/soot on the rear bumber is not necessarily "too" bad of a sign. It means there's a rich condition on the engine or an O2 sensor is acting up some/going bad, or the vehicle has some modifications. The only way to find out is by driving the car around for a little while (more than one hour). You will need to drive it normally and get on VTEC as well.
-If possible, do a compression check and a leak down test. Doing the compression test alone will NOT give you the full story. This test will only tell you the rings are going bad or are worn out. The leak down test will tell you if there's a problem and where is coming from.
-You are looking at a 13 year old vehicle. Unless every suspension bushing and such has been previously replaced, you are bound to hear some noices here and there.
-Get under the car and look for corrosion, impacts, parts removed, and such. Take your time here.
-You mentioned a light weight pulley installed on the engine. Which pulley are you referring to? The crankshaft pulley, the P/S pulley, the A/C pulley, the alternator pulley?
-Transmission. This one is a hit and miss. Just feel for any notchiness and listen to any abnormal noises. Do keep in mind there's an LSD in there!
-Very important. Because it's working today, does not mean it will be working tomorrow. That's the nature of the mechanical beast.

Since it's Saturday, and most likely you either did or did not pulled the trigger already, I'll stop here. Personally, I would still look at everything mentioned here and by everyone else. Good luck!
-Jose

iboughtas2k

Thank you for all the replies

Here is an update!!!
First of all, i did not get the car after all
Carfax looked super clean... All VINs are intact
Body was very clean except a few blemishes

The reason why i did not get the car was it had a Tenzo CAI, DC header, and skunk2 light weight pulleys and apexi exhaust. Car ran pretty good. But i think im gonna wait for the virgin type R or close to stock. I know its hard to find unmodified ones. But i hate trying to put the car back to stock after i buy them. Especially type R factory parts are expensive!!!!!

So im in search of PY or CW DC2 type-R. Clean title. Unmodified.
Spread the words out

Thank you!

JoseCuervo

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to say this, but that's probably as virgin as they are going to get for that price. The ones that are actually "virgin", with less miles, go for a lot more than that. Meaning, it would have cost you less to to return the one you were looking at to stock than to purchase a virgin one. With a little bit of research and patience, I see about $600 or less worth of ITR parts (used parts of course) to be found and installed.
Good luck with your search!

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

This is unfortunate. But those parts you listed are very easy to obtain if you want to return them back to stock.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

A 13 year old car should have some non-oem bolt-on parts.

$12,800 is a good down payment toward a newer car and you won't be bothered with people bugging you about your car.

4drferio

u found a py itr for sale in socal? hard to find a stock one id tell u that. where u found it at?

dc2LS

Its gonna be really hard to find a virgin R.Those parts you mentioned could have easily been replaced with oem parts.