PaulMc

iTrader: (1)

It shouldn't read half, it should be right before the halfway line.. is does matter..

SoTexDC2

Vtec transition issue sounds oil pressure related. Check your oil level.

As for the cooling problem, did you bleed the air out of the system? Open your radiator cap and let the car warm up completely, until the thermostat opens. Top off the coolant. It helps to jack the front of the car up a bit to aid in getting air bubbles to the filler neck.

Tyrant_007

iTrader: (1)

Does your heater blow hot air? Do you have water wetter or any coolant additive that chemically cools?

hon-daddy

air in the system would cause over heating not over cooling.

hon-daddy

yes hot air blows perfect. everythings stock, even engine is bone stock.

SoTexDC2

I disagree. An air pocket trapped near the coolant temperature sensor can cause the gauge to give inaccurate readings, in either direction. I've personally experienced it both ways - the temperature gauge fluctuates between cold, and hot.

Additionally, air in the system does not necessarily cause over heating, or over cooling. Only inaccurate temperature gauge readings.

Regardless, to the guy having problems, there are only so many things that could cause this. Even with a large aftermarket radiator, it is the thermostats job to keep the engine at/above operating temperature. Assuming you are running a known good OEM thermostat - If your car is getting too cool in the colder months of the year, step the thermostat temperature up a few degrees (buy a hotter thermostat).

Your best bet is to get a coolant temperature gauge, or an OBD scanner and read the actual temperature, and go from there.

hon-daddy

ill try it out 2morrow and let you know. dont hurt to give it a shot

b18c5 power

iTrader: (3)

Wow maybe my itr never got to full temp, that`s really strange , maybe i`ll install a gauge ...???

SoTexDC2

You can do that, or use an OBD scanner to read the coolant temperature while you are driving. I think you can rent them at autozone.

Keep in mind that it is the thermostat's job to keep the engine at or above its rated temperature. The thermostat will remain closed, effectively keeping the coolant from circulating into the radiator, until the engine reaches the temperature rating of the thermostat. Even the largest aftermarket radiators will have no effect on the coolant temperature, until the thermostat opens and allows coolant to circulate. The same goes for coolant additives. The thermostat should still maintain the vehicle's standard operating temperature.

If for some reason the outside air temperature is cold enough that it causes the coolant to drop back below the rated temperature of the thermostat, it will close and block coolant from entering the the radiator.

What I'm getting at is, after initial warm up, at no point should your car ever run below the thermostats rated temperature. If you guys are having problems with the engine getting too cool, you either have an incorrect thermostat, or a seized thermostat that is stuck in the "open" position.

b18c5 power

iTrader: (3)

MMMhh i`l change the thermostat soon ,regular, cheap ,easy maintenance , i`l scan the temp for peace of mind

hon-daddy

i changed out the thermo, got a brand new spoon cluster, new ect sensor, new sending unit for the temp gauge and new coolant.

b18c5 power

iTrader: (3)

Well new thermostat, new coolant ,new thermo swicth, car still too cold??? Maybe it`s time for the water pump?

mrharmonic

well if its the water pump wouldn't it be over heating or even leaking? just asking? and trying to help lol

SoTexDC2

I'm stumped. If all of those things have been replaced, I don't understand how you are still running too cool.

Have you used a temp gauge, or OBD scanner to figure out what the temperature actually is?

b18c5 power

iTrader: (3)

I`l try to get the obd asap!!! I`l post the result soon !

hon-daddy

i got the air out the radiator and it still reads the same :/

im not sure if my gauge reading halfway would have to do with the water pump, any1 know?

LilKrnThugBoi253

man, i'm having the same problem with my itr motor, my motor keeps reading cold.

ewendc2r

Hi all. I'm from Australia, don't get real cold here.. Anyhow, I installed a Oil Cooler (Type S HKS with the thermostat) and have replaced the fan switch with a low temp spoon unit.

Is it possible for the Thermostat to fail 'open'? I thought the spring would ensure it failed closed?

My engine does the same thing, to the point where it drops out of the Vtec temp range and doens't engage vtec. Usually cruising 80-100kmh around 15 deg celcius ambient temps, also removed the A/C Condensor etc .. had a massive impact on the engine temps. But, it never goes over the just before halfway mark, even on the track... Weird?

Wai

Like what SoTexDC2 said, it does sound like a thermostat problem to me. Although you've already changed to a new OEM unit, you could check it again and see if the spring was stuck or if the installation was ok.

fly_high_gsr

lol i thought i was the only person having this cooling problem, when my car running, temp gauge comes normal but as soon i take off it starting to drop but i still got good heat and vtec engaging normal no matter how many times i punched it. I changed oem cap from honda same result then i changed oem thermostat and ect sensor from my old gs-r head nothing changed same issue, so i believe its very cold outside and radiator not getting full temp cuz of cold wind blowing str8 on radiator and anti freeze staying cold. All i gotta do is now wait till summer time and figure it out from there i'm tired of this as long i got good heat in my car to warm my *** i'm good lol.

hon-daddy

yours is an easy fix, its the sending unit for the gauge cluster. its next to the ect sensor.

i still cant solve my problem but people are telling me that 1/4 on the gauge is normal. what do other peoples gauge read?

stevenDAtegra

My LS VTEC isn't halfway to the middle but just a little over 3/4 with the stock cooling system.

How long does your car have to idle before the gauge starts to move at all?

hon-daddy

its normal, doesnt take long at all just stops at 1/4th. car runs perfect and v tech pops with no problems.

SoTexDC2

vtech pops?

I think it's possible that our thermostats are all calibrated roughly, if that makes any sense.

To all of you guys who are still having problems, I suggest that you get either an OBD scanner, or coolant temperature gauge and get an accurate temperature reading.

hon-daddy

popping meaning engauge. (works perfect)