2000 ITR won't start
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2000 ITR won't start
Alright, 2 weeks ago I got in my 00 type r after driving it the night before with no problems, and it won't start. It turns over but will not start.
The starter is fine and is providing more then enough cranking power. The car has plenty of gas in it, the fuel pressure is fine and the injectors are firing properly and getting fuel into the cylanders. Compression is good and i'm getting spark. The distributor isn't cracked and tests within factory specs. I replaced the ICM since it is a common part to fail. The cylander position sensor, TDC, and Crank position sensors are all fine and within spec in the oem helms manual. Timing belt is fine and I checked the time with a timing light, and it was good. Also the immobilizer system is working properly. Also i tried a known good ecu and still nothing.
Someone had mentioned to me that the CPS could be failing under a load. Or maybe something is wrong with the distributor??? I'm at the end of the helms manual troubleshooting with no luck. Any ideas?
The starter is fine and is providing more then enough cranking power. The car has plenty of gas in it, the fuel pressure is fine and the injectors are firing properly and getting fuel into the cylanders. Compression is good and i'm getting spark. The distributor isn't cracked and tests within factory specs. I replaced the ICM since it is a common part to fail. The cylander position sensor, TDC, and Crank position sensors are all fine and within spec in the oem helms manual. Timing belt is fine and I checked the time with a timing light, and it was good. Also the immobilizer system is working properly. Also i tried a known good ecu and still nothing.
Someone had mentioned to me that the CPS could be failing under a load. Or maybe something is wrong with the distributor??? I'm at the end of the helms manual troubleshooting with no luck. Any ideas?
#3
Re: (Dave_B)
Did you bother to see if the battery was dead?
What if the car was flooded? Did you try and start it with the throttle partially pushed in to open the throttle body?
What if the car was flooded? Did you try and start it with the throttle partially pushed in to open the throttle body?
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Re: (Dave_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The main relay under the dash maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked the main relay as well and it is testing within spec
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you bother to see if the battery was dead?
What if the car was flooded? Did you try and start it with the throttle partially pushed in to open the throttle body?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The battery reads 12.2v the starter is fine and is providing more then enough cranking power. The car has never been flooded, and I've tried it with the throttle open, closed, and cracked.
Also the harness jumper for the injector ground is in tight. (Driver rear corner of engine bay)
Modified by Michael G at 1:09 PM 3/28/2006
I checked the main relay as well and it is testing within spec
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you bother to see if the battery was dead?
What if the car was flooded? Did you try and start it with the throttle partially pushed in to open the throttle body?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The battery reads 12.2v the starter is fine and is providing more then enough cranking power. The car has never been flooded, and I've tried it with the throttle open, closed, and cracked.
Also the harness jumper for the injector ground is in tight. (Driver rear corner of engine bay)
Modified by Michael G at 1:09 PM 3/28/2006
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Re: (aziantegger10)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aziantegger10 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try checking to see if your plugs are fouled out</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plugs look fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any DTC's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No DTC's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the plug wires in the correct order?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plug wires are in correct order, remember it was running fine the night before then bam nothing in the morning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2r01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the guy above said, have u tried push starting it?
put the keys on and have it in gear and drop the clutch with someone pushin u from behind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is not a starter problem. At the ignition harness, it has 12v on the ignition wire when in acc and ignition and it holds that while cranking. Acc is the same except loses voltage when in the start position. 12v wire in ignition harness has 12v. All this was verified with a multimeter. Also ALL the fuses in the car were checked with a multimeter
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the ITR have an igniter like the Civics did? This is a part that often goes bad in Civics (or so I have heard)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking about the ignition control module in the distributor (That little Hitachi box)
Plugs look fine
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any DTC's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No DTC's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the plug wires in the correct order?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plug wires are in correct order, remember it was running fine the night before then bam nothing in the morning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2r01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the guy above said, have u tried push starting it?
put the keys on and have it in gear and drop the clutch with someone pushin u from behind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is not a starter problem. At the ignition harness, it has 12v on the ignition wire when in acc and ignition and it holds that while cranking. Acc is the same except loses voltage when in the start position. 12v wire in ignition harness has 12v. All this was verified with a multimeter. Also ALL the fuses in the car were checked with a multimeter
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the ITR have an igniter like the Civics did? This is a part that often goes bad in Civics (or so I have heard)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking about the ignition control module in the distributor (That little Hitachi box)
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Re: (Michael G)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Michael G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are you talking about the ignition control module in the distributor (That little Hitachi box) </TD></TR></TABLE>
He was....thats the ignitor.
Its more likely the coil than the ICM.
Replace the ignition coil and try again
Are you talking about the ignition control module in the distributor (That little Hitachi box) </TD></TR></TABLE>
He was....thats the ignitor.
Its more likely the coil than the ICM.
Replace the ignition coil and try again
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Re: (andyt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He was....thats the ignitor.
Its more likely the coil than the ICM.
Replace the ignition coil and try again </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried a known good coil off a 95 b18b1, and no go there. Will that coil work on an OBD2 b-series vtec motor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say its flooded. Let it turn over for a good while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't start next morning! I've tried letting it turn over til the point I thought it might damage the starter. It's def not flooded
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm.... did you try pulling any engine codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said before no DTC's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, do this.
Take the coil and run it through the tests in Helms and see if its still in spec.
As far as if the other one should work, I am not sure. I used one off an Accord so I know they are interchangeable to some degree.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did that and it tested within spec
BTW I had to sign up for a new user name and password so I'm a trail user, only 5 posts a day. So I will just put all replys in an edit in this post.
Its more likely the coil than the ICM.
Replace the ignition coil and try again </TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried a known good coil off a 95 b18b1, and no go there. Will that coil work on an OBD2 b-series vtec motor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say its flooded. Let it turn over for a good while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wouldn't start next morning! I've tried letting it turn over til the point I thought it might damage the starter. It's def not flooded
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm.... did you try pulling any engine codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said before no DTC's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by andyt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, do this.
Take the coil and run it through the tests in Helms and see if its still in spec.
As far as if the other one should work, I am not sure. I used one off an Accord so I know they are interchangeable to some degree.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did that and it tested within spec
BTW I had to sign up for a new user name and password so I'm a trail user, only 5 posts a day. So I will just put all replys in an edit in this post.
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Re: (Michael G)
Well, do this.
Take the coil and run it through the tests in Helms and see if its still in spec.
As far as if the other one should work, I am not sure. I used one off an Accord so I know they are interchangeable to some degree.
Take the coil and run it through the tests in Helms and see if its still in spec.
As far as if the other one should work, I am not sure. I used one off an Accord so I know they are interchangeable to some degree.
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Re: (andyt)
Tried that as well...I guess I should look for a whole distributor and slap that on there. This is by far the most frusrating experiance I have ever had with a vehicle. I'm at my wit's end.
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Re:
I know someone mentioned this and it was answered, but are you 100% sure about the battery? Just because its producing 12V doesnt mean its producing enough amps to start the car...
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Re: 2000 ITR won't start (KayOs)
If it is holding 12v in acc but looses it in the start position , my guess would be your ignition switch is faulty.
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Re: (Dave_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will it start if you push start it?
Other than that, maybe the ingiter in the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Other than that, maybe the ingiter in the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>