Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
So here it is. I recently joined the group, looking forward to hearing from you guys and all the insight I can find here.
I bought about a month ago a 1998 Acura Integra LS I believe. It may not be in great shape but I thought it was a good base to start with, the engine bay has no rust and the underbody and fenders are clean enough.
There were a few rust spots which I will have/already have cut out and welded on.
The idea is to do most of the body this summer, (I live in Canada, summer is crucial) get the thing on jack stands for the winter. Hopefully In the winter time I can save up and buy pay check by pay check my way to some sort of ITR replica.
-b18c5 engine and tranny
-5 bolt convesion
-control arms suspension/ coilovers
-actual rims
Then once next summer comes around get it rolling, finish body work, prime it and wrap it. Because being a college student I can't convince myself to pay for a full body paint job $8000 over doing the wrap myself $500.
I was really hoping you guys could help me out, kinda guide me through this.
I have worked on cars and done complete rebuilds but never on anything Honda/Acura, I've heard they aren't that hard to work on but honestly have never really paid attention to these cars up until now.
Fell in love with the thing.
Anyways, cheers everyone
Gabriel from Canada
-Photos will come
I bought about a month ago a 1998 Acura Integra LS I believe. It may not be in great shape but I thought it was a good base to start with, the engine bay has no rust and the underbody and fenders are clean enough.
There were a few rust spots which I will have/already have cut out and welded on.
The idea is to do most of the body this summer, (I live in Canada, summer is crucial) get the thing on jack stands for the winter. Hopefully In the winter time I can save up and buy pay check by pay check my way to some sort of ITR replica.
-b18c5 engine and tranny
-5 bolt convesion
-control arms suspension/ coilovers
-actual rims
Then once next summer comes around get it rolling, finish body work, prime it and wrap it. Because being a college student I can't convince myself to pay for a full body paint job $8000 over doing the wrap myself $500.
I was really hoping you guys could help me out, kinda guide me through this.
I have worked on cars and done complete rebuilds but never on anything Honda/Acura, I've heard they aren't that hard to work on but honestly have never really paid attention to these cars up until now.
Fell in love with the thing.
Anyways, cheers everyone
Gabriel from Canada
-Photos will come
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
Second day I had, it I decided I was gonna go ahead and do a better job than what I has originally planned for it, went ahead and did the easy stuff, took everything apart.
That's also when I noticed that it had been in an accident. I feel like the previous owner just tried hammering it out himself, but it left the shell all crumpled. The frame still looks good from underneath though.
That's also when I noticed that it had been in an accident. I feel like the previous owner just tried hammering it out himself, but it left the shell all crumpled. The frame still looks good from underneath though.
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#9
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#10
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Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
So here is a little before and after of the interior when I first took everything out and after I cleaned it out and scotch-brite the rust down.
sorry about vertical pic :s
You can see here i already cut the rust out on both sides.
this was what the rust looked like, very similar both sides
sorry about vertical pic :s
You can see here i already cut the rust out on both sides.
this was what the rust looked like, very similar both sides
#11
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Thread Starter
Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
Ive decided to remove those black sound deadening things at the back but keep em on at the front, mainly because the front of the shell is very clean and doesnt really need to have work done to it.
Unless you guys see a good reason why I should take it off then I'll keep it that way
I don't know how much weight they add or how much they actually reduce the sound...
Unless you guys see a good reason why I should take it off then I'll keep it that way
I don't know how much weight they add or how much they actually reduce the sound...
#12
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Thread Starter
Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
Here's the weld job on the sides of the trunk. Heated through in some places, what do you guys recommend to fill in the holes? bondo, silicone?
I'm gonna grind off the welds by grinding them with a wire brush. I've been told Bondo could do the job. Its gonna get painted over and then have the trunk inner pannels put back so it wont be visible, it was done to remove rust.
I'm gonna grind off the welds by grinding them with a wire brush. I've been told Bondo could do the job. Its gonna get painted over and then have the trunk inner pannels put back so it wont be visible, it was done to remove rust.
#14
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#15
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Thread Starter
Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
So I'll be doing some real shitty grinding work and getting the rear end ready for paint, both inside and outside. I'm gonna take a bunch of pictures during but post them as one reply so you guys don't have to bear through the shitty and barely noticeable work I'm about to do. But here is a preview of what I'm doing
So the previous owner I feel got rear ended and then just did a shitty job of hammering it back into place and sealing it with silicone, cause it was all over the place. So where both peices of metal meet, I've grinded all the glue and silicone off so I can actually paint all the metal properly and then reseal it up. Hopefully do a better job and make it look cleaner lol.
Now would any of you know it if is possible to heat the metal up where its crumpled and either hammer it out better or pull it out...? here's a pic of the area im talking about
So the previous owner I feel got rear ended and then just did a shitty job of hammering it back into place and sealing it with silicone, cause it was all over the place. So where both peices of metal meet, I've grinded all the glue and silicone off so I can actually paint all the metal properly and then reseal it up. Hopefully do a better job and make it look cleaner lol.
Now would any of you know it if is possible to heat the metal up where its crumpled and either hammer it out better or pull it out...? here's a pic of the area im talking about
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
So I haven't been putting much work into the rear-end rust situation just yet. My buddy from class, who also drives an integra blew his motor. And because I was planning on swaping mine out some time mid winter and putting in a b18 I offered him my current engine, B20b.
I dont have much pictures of the process, but here is what the engine bay looks like now. The engine is only mounted, eveeything else has been labelled and disconnected for easy re assembly.
I dont have much pictures of the process, but here is what the engine bay looks like now. The engine is only mounted, eveeything else has been labelled and disconnected for easy re assembly.
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
*** To all who are interested in doing their own swap:
I was pleasently surprised by how little problems I had with bolts, by how short and sweet the wire harness is and by how quick this can be accomplished.
Start by removing all the hoses and lines that go from the engine to the chassis, then starting from the fuse box on the left unplug all the plugs the wire harness may be connected to.
Label EVERYTHING and thats it.
*demounting engine, transaxle and pulling the engine out might be difficult, some bolts may be seized and the transaxle are often a bitch to pull out.
Luckily this integra had been swaped with a b20 fairly recently I assume because no bolt was seized or rusted!
Cheers, Gab
I was pleasently surprised by how little problems I had with bolts, by how short and sweet the wire harness is and by how quick this can be accomplished.
Start by removing all the hoses and lines that go from the engine to the chassis, then starting from the fuse box on the left unplug all the plugs the wire harness may be connected to.
Label EVERYTHING and thats it.
*demounting engine, transaxle and pulling the engine out might be difficult, some bolts may be seized and the transaxle are often a bitch to pull out.
Luckily this integra had been swaped with a b20 fairly recently I assume because no bolt was seized or rusted!
Cheers, Gab
#20
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Re: Year-Long Rebuild (hopefully)
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Primer
Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray? Epoxy Primer Gray
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09-02-2005 08:23 PM