trm4life

Well all I know is the EACV and IACV are two separate parts in my car. The iacv is under the throttle body in my 92,and the eacv, is in the back of the intake manifold. The iacv has no electric plug on my car, the eacv does, hence electric idle control vs idle air control valve.

trm4life

This is the iacv under the throttle body





This is the eacv on the back of the manifold

1ls/vtec

The 1st picture looks like the FITV and the 2nd looks like the IACV. Is your car an automatic? My car is having similar idle problems, however I do not have a FITV. According to the Haynes manual for CRV's and Integra's, automatics have the FITV and manuals do not. Have you tried re-tightening the valve in the FITV, under the throttle body?

Tjw149

I already mentioned that my car is a 2000 manual and I do not have a FITV. Its funny that trm4life thinks that the FITV is electronically controlled when in fact its mechanical and has not electrical connections.

Also 1ls/vtec that is not true, some years that are manual do have a FITV, my old 99 had one and it was manual.

JDMswagSerf

1995 MT with fitv here

trm4life

As I mentioned, mine is a 92. In the book, the sensor on the back is the EACV (electric air control valve). I actually recently had a code 14. In the book it says electric idle control. The IACV (idle air control valve) is not electric. On my car you can service the valve, newer cars cannot. FITV is fast idle throttle valve. Only on newer cars. Not trying to prove people wrong, just separating generations.

Tjw149

Okay I may have found a solution. Turns out my 2 replacement JDM IACV's are different styles.
My original obd2b P75 B18B1 one looks like this:

Notice how their is a ring around the inlet side of the valve. this is very strange considering I do not have a FITV.
The JDM replacement one looks like this:

My question is before I commit to buying a replacement valve is this: is their anyone that is running a very similar setup to me in a 2000/2001 DC4? I want to know if they have a similar problem when converting to OBD1 and running the original IACV from the P75 OBD2b intake manifold.

Tjw149

I did some digging around and found the original IACV, it was replaced with some crappy aftermarket IACV.





Heres a comparison of 2 different styled IACV:



Question being, which IACV am I suppose to be using without a FITV??

JDMswagSerf

The top one where both are pictued. Get a new gasket for it too.

Tjw149

Sorry for the late update, I put the IACV that JDMswagSerf suggested in. Idle is a bit more responsive. However, A new issue arise with the warmer temperatures now; upon cold start in warmer temperatures, I smell lots of raw gas out the tail pipe. This leads me to believe that the issue is a internal fuel injector leak, causing the rail to drop in pressure when sitting overnight. You can actually see white smoke (more normal for a cold start) coming out the tail pipe. The car stalled on me twice when trying move it, it idles like **** and is all over the place (from 200-1500). Anyone have another idea?

JDMswagSerf

Have you replaced ECT sensor?
Sounds like a nightmare.

Tjw149

That is a none issue cause swapped motor = different engine temp sensor and sending unit. This is the 5 or 6th different IACV 7 or so Throttle body. Just replaced my map sensor (each TB came with all the sensors) cause my friend that only knows Subarus is like "lets clean the TB" and I was like, "ur going to f it up" 3 days later the car was very unbearable to drive cause the map sensor went bad.. I should hopefully be swapping the manifold over this weekend (along with a new rear mount)

Also, when this retarded *** idle **** happens upon cold start, my tailpipe smells like a gas station. Its so bad that my neighbor was walking around town and knocked on my door and said he smelled gas from the sidewalk. I know u run rich at cold start, but this is like dumping a gallon of gas into the intake manifold. I have to wait now for it to warm up otherwise the **** feels like I have no tranny fluid.

Another thing to note is before we cleaned the TB, I was able to set the base idle at 500 with the IACV unplugged. after cleaning the rubber seal on the inside of the throttle body fell off and now I can only set the idle to 540; looks like I was right, the carbon was helping me lol.

So because of all the worsting symptoms, I believe its a internal fuel injector leak. The TB and IACV are all working normal. I need any input I can get at this point.

NickFury01gsr

Have you looked any into the fuel sending unit or the pump?

Tjw149

Not yet, gonna swap the manifold with one I've been rebuilding soon. If that does not fix it then I will be ordering a Walbro 255.

guyver13

iTrader: (1)

X2

If you say you have a GS/LS motor and you swapped the b20 block then I assume you are using the same GS/LS head? And if the problem was there before then maybe its on the head? Leading me to believe it could be a faulty ECT...? A faulty one would cause all sorts of problems. And its cheap to replace. Or get a multimeter and test it its cold and hot resistance

Tjw149

The problem is injector related if you look at my prevous update. I am using a B20 head and B20 Block. P75 B18B1 Intake, PS, AC Crank Pully and motor mounts. I bought a complete B20B low compression motor from JDM Engine Depot. Comes w/ engine coolant temp sensor and sending unit. Here is a link to what I got, from the place I bought it from if u have doubts.
https://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_e...t_for_B20B4%29

JDMswagSerf

Maybe the ECT sensor it came with is bad.?

m0ebius

Is this issue resolved?

Tjw149

No. Are you having the same problem?

m0ebius

Im not having a problem, but i know how to fix this kind of stuff. Do you have a multimeter? Or access to borrow a scope like the snap on verus?

I have some tests we can do to see how the computer is controlling your engine.

If this is too much, i recommend just paying the 2hr labour at a good diag shop. Its better than wasting your summer.

Tjw149

The Issue is now resolved. I'll post in depth what I did to fix it for other ppl that might have this issue.

Rebuilt a spare P75 manifold (LS) with:
- JDM B20 injectors. Cleaned, tested, new strainers & o-rings.
- Used a different fuel rail and inlet regulator, cleaned this beforehand.
- Reused the return regulator
- Reused IACV and parts of the TB. Calibrated the TPS, changed the map senor.
- Used a different EVAP Purge Valve
- New Gaskets and such.
Also I should note that I deleted the Intake manifold/ hoist point support bracket & put a solid Urethane filled rear mount in.

Once the old manifold was off, cylinders 3 & 4 had a bit of raw fuel and the intake port was black compared to 1 & 2. This lead me to believe I had leaky fuel injectors.

After I swapped the manifold and I'm bleeding the cooling system, my friend noticed that the return coolant line from the IACV/ TB, was kinked at the metal heater line for the valve cover breather. We bent it back and a crap load of air bubbles came out of the cooling system.

I personally believe that the issue was a combination of things, Kinked cooling lines, bad purge valve and faulty injectors.

JDMswagSerf

Nice! Congrats.

Tjw149

Thanks! Its been hell. I hope this info helps someone in the future.

m0ebius

Good!

Sucks it was such a pain.