Tjw149

Hi, before I describe the problem, here is my car details:

Engine & car specs:

2000 Acura integra GS
176k
JDM 1996 B20B swapped (Low compression 32,000 miles on block now)
LS 5 speed
LS intake and Exhaust manifold
LS PS and AC compressor
LS crank pully
B20 distributor (Same effect with either LS or B20 distributor)
B20 alternator
B20 JDM oil pump (no crank sensor)
Pr4 chipped ecu with b20 fuel map.

Here’s what I tried:

- Replaced IACV twice, no change (new gasket as well)
- 3 different throttle body’s, I calibrated the TPS each time. (new gasket as well)
- New Intake Manifold gasket from the b20 swap.
- Burped the cooling system 6 times.
- 2 different pcv valves.
- Checked for vacuum leak.
- 3 different ecu’s.
- New thermostat with gasket.
- New valve cover with grommets.

The strange part is that when I checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and water, I also tried taking the air filter off (have CAI) and putting my hand over the inlet pipe with a good seal. However, the car does not stall out until I pinch the hose that connects from the intake to the valve cover, it will just idle really low. Is this normal? I imagine the the car is suppose to stall.

I also have been getting considerably bad gas mileage, 22-26 mpg.

Upon cold starts in extreme cold conditions (15 F) the car will start up within the first 2 cranks, but will be very rough, it will misfire and will fluctuate between 900 and 500. After a minute the IACV opens up and the idle raises to a solid 1500.

This car had idle problems since I bought it, I just ignored it because I was swapping it.

A thing that recently started to happen as well, when I go to turn the key to the start position, it takes up to half a second to start cranking. Its very intermittent and I do not believe it is relevant. It is not the ignition switch nor the clutch interlock switch, I have a remote start and the delay still happens when using the remote starter.

Here is a video of a cold start in about 27 degrees F:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w67p6aapnb...52406.mp4?dl=0

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Tjw149

32 views and no input? come on... Don't tell me my car is done for.

Crxin2069

Have you tried tightening up your fast idle thermos valve. check it out on you tube if you need visuals or what not

Tjw149

Do not have one its a 2000... IACV controls fast idle.

JDMswagSerf

The fact that the car does not stall out with the intake pipe covered leads me to think the engine is sucking air from somewhere else.
Try doing a smoke test. To see if smokes leaks from anywhere else.
You replaced everything for the engine but the ecu?

Tjw149

I've replaced the ecu with a obd1 pr4 with a b20b base map. I've tried 2 different base maps and even the original P75 ecu. I've done smoke/vape tests, no issues. One concern that I have is that when I put my hand over the intake and plug the pcv valve (Replaced with 3 different ones) and the other line that runs to the Ls/B20 valve cover, the car does stall out without any hesitation.

Do you have a LS or B20? can you try to replicate the symptom, see if the car stalls out when you only have your hand over the intake pipe.

JDMswagSerf

I do have an LS with a b20 in it on stock p75 ecu LS map obd1.
Ill see if I can replicate what you're talking about.

Could it be possible that something is plugged in your intake manifold that allows no air in.

wunfstgsr

Check your MAP sensor O ring. Or maybe you need a 0bd1 map sensor. or a common mistake is you might have switch the IACV with the cooling fan switch read this might help,

http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...0-B18B-related

Tjw149

Thanks let me know how it goes.

Tjw149

Well, I've switched from 3 or 4 different throttle body's so I do not believe this is the issue. Right now I'm using a throttle body from a 2000 accord with the LS throttle spring and I've also calibrated the TPS to be at .5 volts fully closed.

Tjw149

I'm at the point of just rebuilding a spare intake manifold & injectors and transfer over the throttle body as well as the IACV.

Crxin2069

Have you tried running compression test and a cylinder leak down test?

Tjw149

Compression is perfect. I'm not doing a leak down test, there is no need the engine itself is flawless. Pull hard and has lots of low end torque for a 2.0. The issue is not mechanical. I had the issue before the swap. I believe it is the intake manifold. I'm going to be rebuilding another one that I have in the upcoming weeks to see if the issue was possibly leaky fuel injectors (gas mileage is suffering and is getting worse with time).

Crxin2069

Can't you pull the injectors and have them tested or see if they leak with key on engine off or run a fuel pressure gauge

Tjw149

Like I said, I will be doing this in the next 2 weeks. Waiting on parts and time to do it.

Tjw149

Just to clarify, the issues persist with the OBD2B P75 or my chipped OBD1 PR4 w/ B20 map.
Any other suggestions?

Tjw149

Bump...

JDMswagSerf

This is odd.
I have the exact same set up as you and everything plugged up and went to work.

What vacuum ports do you have on that manifold ?

Tjw149

So I discovered that when I am filling up gas in the colder weather, my car sputters and stalls out. When I go to start it, I have to feather the gas to keep it alive. It misfires like crazy. After I'm done getting gas, the idle returns to semi normal (1,000 and slowly falls to 850). I've read that this can be the evap purge valve, since I'm obd1 on a obd2b car, the obd1 does not know how to read this signal and can keep the evap system open, causing my car to just run on fumes. So I disconnected the plug on the purge valve and its been idling a lot smoother. Its still rough in the morning, misfiring and choppy as hell.

JDMswagSerf, what year is ur teg? 99 is obd2a and 2000 & 2001 is obd2b.

JDMswagSerf

I have an obd1 with i think obd2 b20?
Not sure what b20 but it was basically bare longblock and all ls parts.


The evap purge solenoid is just there to throw gas tank fumes into your intake for better mpg and enviornment reasons i believe. The car does not just run on fumes ever solenoid closed or open.
I dont have my evap solenoid connected nor have the canister and the car runs great.
I do have all vacuum ports for the solenoid on the IM plugged.
You are using all obd1 parts rights?

From your video everything looks fine. The idle on cold start is normal, the drop in rpm when the wheel is turned is normal. I cant really hear if its misfiring but it doesnt look rough.

Have you checked your distributor timing?

Tjw149

Trust me when I say the idle is not right. Got the timing checked by a shop with a pro timming light, replaced IACV (twice), new PCV valve. The only thing left is injectors. withing the next two weeks I will be swaping the intake manifold. I am using the B20 Alternator with LS crank pulley, B20 distributor (They are exactly the same inside and out, idc what ppl say all obd 1 &2 dissys are the same internally the mounting points just change), LS PS, AC compressor, LS intake, B20 exhaust manifold (identical to LS). i will say this yet another time, the idle issue persists on the OBD1 or OBD2 ECU. I have tried everything but for injectors & FPR. With the car now stalling when I'm getting gas in colder temperatures I do not think that is the issue. This is my second teg, the idle is not suppose to do that when you turn the wheel, you have issues yourself if that's the case... Brought it to a shop they say its normal (the do not want to diagnose it the have no idea themselves). Please stop making suggestions without reading my full write up. Half these comments are things that I have already tried. It sometimes does the same thing in this video:

JDMswagSerf

Did you see in your video your rpm adjusts after you turn the wheel and the rpm goes back up lol. Ps load=load on engine=rpm drop=car rasing rpm back up.


Im assuming you have no cel, so start diagnosing and testing fuel supply. Pump, fpr, filter and injectors.

Tjw149

I have a new Fuel filter. I do not believe it is injectors or Pump b/c no power loss. I believe it is related to the EVAP system, which I am no longer using so I disconnected the Purge valve. Reason being is when I put gas in the car in cold temperatures, the car will start misfiring like crazy and stall out.

Anytime there is a 30< degree temperature change, the care idles like crazy upon cold start. When I give it gas and let it idle the idle dips down to like 400. If i let it sit without driving it for 20-40 seconds, it will climb up to 1,500 and smooth itself out.

Another thing to note is when this is happening the car is nearly impossible to drive, the RPM's drop so fast I have to hold the throttle between shifts so I don't jerk the car. Same thing occurs when I have the AC on, the RPM's drop really fast but idles at a steady 900.

Here's a video what I'm explaining. Notice how I rev it up and the RPM's drop at a dramatic rate.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qskncp54lu...13850.mp4?dl=0

trm4life

Check your electric idle control sensor. Its similar to the IACV. It uses coolant temps to adjust the idle speed. IACV failing will cause RPMs to jump at idle, bad electric idle control valve, will cause no start at all, only runs with foot lightly on the throttle, and will likely idle high at operating temp.

Tjw149

The electric idle control sensor is the same thing to the IACV. and I randomly have a slightly high idle condition, after a few seconds it will slowly fall to 850, where its suppose to be. Another thing to consider is anytime I start the car after 20 degree temperature changes, it will idle extremely rough and low. after a few minutes it will stabilize out. could this be cause by a faulty Coolant temperature sensor?