searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
#1
searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
i searched all through this site and couldnt quite find any answers to my current problem.
My 1990 integra is not receiving spark, the distributor its self is reading 11v on every single terminal but when cranked the power doesnt go through the cap or even seem to reach the cap at all. I replaced cap and rotor today as well as plugs and wires and still nothing.
i need some help from all you honda fanatics to help get my baby on the road asap.
things that i have checked and replaced are timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cap and all that stated above, all new vacuum lines to the correct ports. Ive checked to make sure all grounds are tight and in correct places and have found nothing. Im really at a loss right now and despretly need assistance
also i read a post by fcm on a similar topic about doing a key on test by listening for clicks to see if the icm is working, i tried it and there was 2 very fast clicks and then 1 more but the cel stays on and its only throwing a long blink with a 5 second pause then 6 short so i believe thats 10 and 6 which is a intake air temperature and the ect sensor. I replaced the coolant sensor and im not sure exactly what the ita sensor is or where its located but either way it doesnt seem like it should have to do with starting
please help honda tech!!
My 1990 integra is not receiving spark, the distributor its self is reading 11v on every single terminal but when cranked the power doesnt go through the cap or even seem to reach the cap at all. I replaced cap and rotor today as well as plugs and wires and still nothing.
i need some help from all you honda fanatics to help get my baby on the road asap.
things that i have checked and replaced are timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cap and all that stated above, all new vacuum lines to the correct ports. Ive checked to make sure all grounds are tight and in correct places and have found nothing. Im really at a loss right now and despretly need assistance
also i read a post by fcm on a similar topic about doing a key on test by listening for clicks to see if the icm is working, i tried it and there was 2 very fast clicks and then 1 more but the cel stays on and its only throwing a long blink with a 5 second pause then 6 short so i believe thats 10 and 6 which is a intake air temperature and the ect sensor. I replaced the coolant sensor and im not sure exactly what the ita sensor is or where its located but either way it doesnt seem like it should have to do with starting
please help honda tech!!
#2
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (5)
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
so if you did the fcm list for why your teg is not running what answer do you have for the test where (no paperclip on two wire connector-to check cels)in normal operation, you turn the key to II (where all the dash indicators come on-not trying to start the car) does your cel stay on for two seconds and then go off?
#3
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
the connector is jumped, and the cel stays on but im pretty sure its only on because my exhaust is off the car at the moment and the o2 sensor is unplugged
#7
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
is there an exact test that i should do? I tested voltage on all of the wires and any terminal that receives power on the distributor and they all are getting around 11v
if the icm went out would it cause the car to act like a plug wire came undone while driving?
if the icm went out would it cause the car to act like a plug wire came undone while driving?
Trending Topics
#8
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
This same thing happened to me. Check your fuses. If your CEL does not go out after a few seconds then you either blew a fuse or your PCM(ECU) is bad. If your fuses are ok, try to check your codes. If you can not check them then your pcm may be bad. Keep in mind, this may not even be the cause, just the current issue.
Long story short mine ended up being a bad ignition switch. My post is still up on the first or second page, I think if you wanna check it out.
Edit: When I say check, I mean with a device, not a jumper(if you can help it). I bought a little $60 one at auto zone that has helped me, and friends, countless times. I say this because when my fuse was bad the device gave me a no return reading, as if the PCM wasn't even connected to the car. My PCM turned out to be fine, but in my research I found that it is very possible to be a bad PCM in this case. I found no easy way to test this other than borrowing a friends.
Long story short mine ended up being a bad ignition switch. My post is still up on the first or second page, I think if you wanna check it out.
Edit: When I say check, I mean with a device, not a jumper(if you can help it). I bought a little $60 one at auto zone that has helped me, and friends, countless times. I say this because when my fuse was bad the device gave me a no return reading, as if the PCM wasn't even connected to the car. My PCM turned out to be fine, but in my research I found that it is very possible to be a bad PCM in this case. I found no easy way to test this other than borrowing a friends.
Last edited by RigaTony; 04-26-2011 at 08:14 AM. Reason: Additional info.
#9
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
im trying to find my test light to check my fuses but i just checked my resistance on my coil, the primary read .2 ohms (spec is .6/.8) and the secondary didnt even read so im pretty sure my coil took a **** on me
thanks for the replys
I had a problem with my ignition switch before because a wire somehow got cut under the dash and wouldnt let any power run to the starter, soldered it back together and has worked fine since till this little problem... im going to have autozone check my icm when i get the new coil
thanks for the replys
I had a problem with my ignition switch before because a wire somehow got cut under the dash and wouldnt let any power run to the starter, soldered it back together and has worked fine since till this little problem... im going to have autozone check my icm when i get the new coil
#10
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
i had autozone test my icm and it was good and my coil was running a little low so i replaced it and im still not receiving spark.
the 2 wire plug that connects to the distributor is reading -11.45 and -11.34 on both and the large connector is reading .6 on most of the wires. when i had my mom crank the car over for me while i checked the individual ports where the plug wires plug into there was no voltage running through them.
someone please give me some input im starting to get really irritated because the car is my daily and im missing alot of classes with it being down
also my ecm is still reading code 6
the 2 wire plug that connects to the distributor is reading -11.45 and -11.34 on both and the large connector is reading .6 on most of the wires. when i had my mom crank the car over for me while i checked the individual ports where the plug wires plug into there was no voltage running through them.
someone please give me some input im starting to get really irritated because the car is my daily and im missing alot of classes with it being down
also my ecm is still reading code 6
#11
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
Is your starter working? Did you check the battery just in case? Have you checked the distributor cap? Make sure the rotor and the cap are looking good. I had to replace both on my integra once in the past. But they were making a grinding sound, so it was a little more obvious.
I am not completely sure about this, BUT look into your main relay. That may only handle the fuel pump, but I remember that being a big look-into part when mine integra wasn't getting a spark. Again, my fuse was blown, so make sure you check those. No. 24 to be precise.
I am not completely sure about this, BUT look into your main relay. That may only handle the fuel pump, but I remember that being a big look-into part when mine integra wasn't getting a spark. Again, my fuse was blown, so make sure you check those. No. 24 to be precise.
#12
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
starters working perfect, i redid all the wires from ignition to starter so there perfect. cap/rotor are brand spanking new i just picked them up yesterday. bat is reading 12+volts ill tripple check the fuses but they were all good when i ran the test light over them earlier today. im looking up a power spec sheet on the main relay cause mine is looking a little rusty/old but all the contact points are good and freshly resoldered.
#13
Re: searched, PLEASE HELP!!!
also my instrument panel lights wont turn off when key is on, what could be causing this?
id like to thank everyone in advance for any useful information
id like to thank everyone in advance for any useful information
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fujimi
Acura Integra
25
10-08-2012 11:01 AM