1990IntegraLS

I've got a loud rocker. I found this as a technical issue, notice from Acura:

YEAR MODEL VIN APPLICATON
1990-1991 INTEGRA ALL

Valve Noise
SYMPTOM
A snapping noise, similar to a spark plug wire arcing, heard as the engine reaches operating temperatures.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Cylinder head is unevenly torqued.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Retorque the cylinder head.
1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to drop below 38~C (100~F).
2. Remove the camshafts.
3. Using the loosening sequence in the Service Manual (page 6-9), Individually loosen then retorque each cylinder head bolt to 7 lb.ft.
4. When ALL head bolts have a torque of 7 lb.ft., retorque, using the torque sequence in the Service Manual (page 6-17) to 22 lb.ft., then to 43 and finally to 61 lb.ft.
5. Reinstall the camshafts and adjust the valve clearance to 0.15 mm IN and 0.17 mm EX.


However, when I've adjusted the valves, I've felt a burr on one rocker, so it's possible that I'm adjusting the clearance incorrectly due to the burr.

I may get a new rocker and replace the one with the burr, but I wondered if anybody's come across this issue of the torque?

Thanks.

Just for note, I only hear this when I open the car door, not from inside while driving, but I'm going to fix it to prevent any problem down the road. I've got about 167k miles now.



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Tjw149

I call bs on the "uneven tq". Do ur valve adjustment a bit loose, see if it goes away. if the head was unevely tq, the hg would pop. Do a compression test to be sure.

1990IntegraLS

I don't think the torque issue is bs, but I don't think that's my issue. It's the opposite though, adjusting with the burr makes the adjustment too loose, thus the noise.

I've been looking for an excuse to put in Brain Crower Stage 1 cams and I'll replace that rocker with a new one....or more depending how they look. I don't think trying to file the burr off would work very well.

...but I am interested in opinions.


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Tjw149

BTW, if ur going to buy a new rocker arm, you can pull it out in a LS motor without removing the cams. All u got to do is make valve all the way loose and slide it off. I figured this trick out when someone over tightened the rocker arm nut and when I broke it loose it fell out from the force. It should take about 30 minutes to figure out what I mean and 2 minutes to remove and install it lol. U will need a good set of vise grips and a strong flathead.

1990IntegraLS

Yes, thanks!

I was thinking about this and realized, the burr isn't on the rocker. It has to be on the adjuster stud, or on the end of the valve. I can feel it when I slide in the feeler gauge in between while adjusting. That's the only reason I know it's there and that's where the noise is coming from. I've only adjusted the valves twice in the 20k miles I've put on it....so I had to think about it to realize it's not the rocker itself. If the burr is on the end of the valve, I'm not sure what I can do about it.


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TheRealTegger

Just where are you sliding that feeler gauge?

The feeler goes between the cam and the lifter; it goes nowhere near the adjusting stud or the top of the valve stem.

1990IntegraLS

I guess you're right. I haven't done it in over a year, only the second time. I've never seen a parts break-down of these engines that showed those parts. I've never owned an over head cam engine before this one (except one cb750F and one Goldwing). I worked on air-cooled VWs and British motorcycles for 40 years.

I put the gauge the only place it'll go.

I got the car three years ago, did it once then, and once more after 12k miles more and haven't opened the valve cover since.

The burr is hard to miss and it's only on one.

I thought I remember it being under the adjuster? Too many year working on VWs, I guess.

So I guess I would need a new rocker, unless it can be filed smooth.
Is that possible?

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TheRealTegger

I found this in a Google search that lasted about .001 seconds.

Did you put the feeler gauge HERE?

1990IntegraLS

Yes ok, easy search. Last time I did this was over a year ago. I haven't had the valve cover off since and only once before. I did my first valve adjustment at 15 on a '63 Karman Ghia. I've done so many valve adjustments, now at 60 years old, it's second hand to me. The only thing I looked up in the book was the clearance and the firing order.

The photo I'm sure is correct, but I just don't remember. There is only one place to put the feeler gauge. That's what I did. It's very easy, there's just a lot of them compared to the other 4-bangers I've owned.

I love this little car, but I'm not a "honda" guy. I still know more about the Norton Commando by far, then my Teg. Last year, I went thru all the suspension bushings, struts, rotors and brakes.....I haven't thought about the engine in quite a while.

I was just surprised to find out they have no cam bushings.

What I'd like to see is a good image of exactly how the rocker arms fit into the head. My service manual doesn't show them, and no other image I've found.






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Tjw149

Try removing that rocker arm. Then you can further examine it. If you understand what I said earlier, you can do it with ease.

1990IntegraLS

Yes, I think that's the best option. I purchased one new one from DelRay, on the way...in case the burr can't be smoothed off.

I found this image. I think is the same rocker?

It gives me a fairly good idea of how they work.

I'll try your way of removing it.








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Tjw149

Yes these are them. Remember, you can do it without removing the cams on a LS motor.

1990IntegraLS

Yes, that's the info I needed.

Thanks!

If I run into a difficulty, I'll post it. I expect there's very little side to side tolerance. So they could be a bit sticky to pull out.

I'm also guessing the have to be lifted over a ridge underneath, part of the head? Something has to hold them in place and keep them from moving front to back.



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Tjw149

Once I figured how to do it, I used 2 flat-heads and a nice pair of vise grips. I backed the rocker all the way down. Then, carefully lifted it off the valve and held it there. From their I got a good grip on the rocker from below the adjuster and pulled up really hard while using the second Flathead to pry it off. I feel like putting it on was alot easier, but once you get it free from the sphere that holds the rocker in place ur golden. Just be careful not to scuff up the cams, its really easy to do, the lower part of the rocker arm is a harder metal. If you have any issue DM me ur number and I'll give u a call. Noone really does it this way...

1990IntegraLS

Thanks. I'll probably wait till the new rocker gets here, another week maybe. I don't like leaving things apart for more than over night.


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That'll also give me time to finish my Ranger. I hit a deer at 70mph. Very little damage....broken headlight (antlers), cracked grill. No body damage. Poor thing laid down at the last second. Lifted my Ranger about 8" off the ground. No damage underneath either. 6 point buck.


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Tjw149

Damm ur lucky... if that was ur teg it would be totaled out.

1990IntegraLS

I like to travel at night for less traffic. I'm going to have to rethink that. The Teg's going on my next trip across Texas in about a month.

I was doin' 83mph, but caught a little brake before impact.


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1990IntegraLS

I got around to my 3rd valve adjustment in 22k miles. Now I can just barely feel the burr on one of the #3 intake valves. It seems to have worn away.

The adjustment went well and all is quite.

I'm a little surprised the burr, all but disappeared. I'm not complaining.


After the last adjustment a couple years ago, this time all the valves were about a half thousands loose. That's good, if any had gotten tighter, I wouldn't be happy.

So, I'm not making any changes now, just the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover and that's all. The rockers are fine.


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Tjw149

Good to hear!