arexniba

Hi everyone. I haven't been here in a while as I've been working on my self. Took a year off from work, and been traveling a bit, too.

However, the one situation that has been problematic for me was my motor.

Long story short, Dan (owner) from Rcrew Racing, installed a 1996 jdm b18c type r motor for me a few years back. During that time, I was unaware how much oil type r's burn, and did not check it more frequently then i should have. I.e. most cars you check every 3k miles or 3 months. However, my heavy foot and the high rpms of the type r, should have been to check it no more than every 2mo.
Therefore, it broke down on me, blew a piston. I couldn't take it back to Dan as the warranty was gone after the first 3mo of purchase/installation and he recommended to just buy another itr engine as i would roughly be spending about the same money.
Thus, I took it to a mechanic locally that i trusted. Yet, he did such a lousy job on it. I think he assumed that the type r doesn't involve much more accurate specifications than most honda motors and every 2-3 weeks after he gave it to me it would blow a piston. My anger and impatience along with his motivation to just make me a happy customer and not deal with me anymore was to purchase a 99 usdm gsr motor used and install it.

Well I've had the motor for about a month now, however, I have traveled out of state for most of the time, so really it's barely even seen 500mi.

***Problem***
I noticed from the start that there was an idling problem. Everything else was fine, so i took it back to him. Assuming that he fixed the issue properly, the rpm idling was getting worse--at start the engine would turn off. I would have to gas it the moment i turned it on to warm it up for a few seconds so it wouldn't shut off.
I took it again and he said, "No problem. I'll fix it come tomorrow." Instead I asked one of the younger mechanics that knows his stuff about Honda motors and he said he was improperly doing it by having another mechanic adjust the throttle cable opposed to the IAC valve.

Since then, I have not taken it back to him as I no longer want to deal with him, and I'm assuming since the motor is running great, no oil leaking, etc. The only problem is idle.

Idle currently at stop:
200-300 rpm

Idle after warm-up:
300-500 rpm (approximately)

*Even during parallel parking, I guess when you can hear the steering pump like "compressed air" it causes the rpm to drop thus causing the motor to shut off. I look like a beginner learning how to drive stick turning off then on.

Thus, my question is, the young mechanic told me it's not the gold plated idle screw on the tb, rather it's an "easy fix" that the IAC has to be adjusted properly for motor to idle properly around 600-700 rpm.

I've been searching all around the net using options like "how to adjust integra gsr idle" or "iac adjustment." Yet, I cannot find any write ups nor diagrams. And whatever I can find that seems to be questioned, other people basically get more into the situation by telling the op to take it to a mechanic for further observation.

What do you guys think?
Should I adjust rpm by trying to force the screw to turn (currently is stuck with some adhesive)?
Should I take it to another mechanic to see if timing was done correctly, therefore, the cause of a faulty idling?

Please help, it's annoying starting my car only to have it shut off. But more of trying to do a simple parallel parking and seeing it shut off.

Thanks!

NemesisCBR

This is what youre looking for. Not saying it will fix it but this is what you need to clean and adjust the iacv to eliminate it as the problem or not and move onto the next item. It is dirty or has gotten stuck over time, maybe both.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...your-iacv.html

david420

Idk what way that guy is talking about by adjusting idle with the iacv. Ive always heard the idle adjust screw is the "correct" way.

Dogginator

Set the base idle with the idle screw and clean the IACV with carburetor cleaner.

el crapitan

the iacv must be disconnected prior to adjusting idle. this keeps the iacv from interfering with your adjustments. iacv disconnected, you should be sitting at 500rpm, with the engine at operating temp. adjust idle screw until you are. reconnect iacv and clear code. allow vehicle to idle for 10 minutes, undisturbed, to allow iacv relearn.

el crapitan

but first, try cleaning the iacv:
a good method is to clean with it on the vehicle. you'll need a can of carb/intake cleaner. remove the air cleaner boot. there will be either 1 or 2 passages inside the throttle body bore, depending on whether or not the vehicle is equipped with a fitv. if there are 2, the top one is the iacv passage. if 1, this will be it. boot off, start the vehicle and allow it to reach operating temp. take your can of intake cleaner, with the nozzle straw attached, and spray liberally directly into the passage. the car will want to stall, so you need to throttle with your hand. you want to throttle somewhat heavy on and off while spraying generously. by throttling on and off, you're working the cleaner into the valve as the valve is being exercised. this method is much better than removing the valve because it cleans the passage as well, which is prone carbon to build up

Dogginator

We need to make a write-up of how to clean the IACV and set the base idle. Next time I do it, I'll have my cell phone camera with me.

arexniba

That would definitely be awesome! I've only done this to help my dad a couple of years back on his Acura CL 3.0. A lot of work taking intake system apart and cleaning the buildup.

Thanks so much guys for all the helpful tips. I will definitely get the carbuerater cleaner and inspect/clean the IAC. Definitely could be the culprit as to who knows how long the person/company this mechanic brought it from has taken care of it?
Reason I trusted Dan when I bought the ITR motor from him wasn't just his reputation amongst the street automotive world, but how clean he maintained the used engines he would sell--all wrapped up and inspected before selling.