Problem with my GSR burning oil...
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Problem with my GSR burning oil...
A few weeks ago I testdrove a 2000 Integra GS-R with75k miles. It smoked a little under heavy acceleration, but pulled very strong. The price was good, so I bought it.
I haven't had much of a chance to check it out the last few weeks; just been going back and forth to work and working on other projects. With normal driving, its getting around 23-25mpg and burning about 1 qt of oil every 100-150 miles. I can't find any oil leaks anywhere. From searching on here, it sounded like the problem could be with the rings. I was dreading the compression check, but figured if the horse needed beat, I was going to beat her.
Well, this morning I got a chance to run a compression check. 176-180 across the board. w00t!!! I've been tickled to death all morning. The cats not out of the bag yet, but it doesn't appear to be the rings.
Now, I'm thinking its something to do with the PCV system. I looked at the helms and it said: with the car idling, pinch the line going to the PCV valve and listen for clicking. Well, there's no clicking. I removed the PCV valve (what a PITA that is) and shook it around and there appears to be a slight rattle and i tried blowing through it both ways (only 1 way worked) and (I'm no expert or anything), but I'm not positive that its bad. I mean sure, I WANT the problem to be the PCV valve, but from my corny little tests, it seems to be ok... or does it?
Ok, onto more little tests: with the motor running, shouldn't there be a constant vacuum on the valve cover? With the motor running, I removed the oil cap and theres air (quite a bit) blowing out of the oil cap. I then removed the hose off the valve cover and there isn't a vacuum on the hose. This line is supposed to have a constant vacuum on it, right?
I ordered a new pcv valve and grommet earlier. Could this be the whole problem? Or does it sound like some vacuum lines are clogged up? Or something else wrong instead of - or in addition to - the pcv valve?
Thanks for the help guys,
-Mike
I haven't had much of a chance to check it out the last few weeks; just been going back and forth to work and working on other projects. With normal driving, its getting around 23-25mpg and burning about 1 qt of oil every 100-150 miles. I can't find any oil leaks anywhere. From searching on here, it sounded like the problem could be with the rings. I was dreading the compression check, but figured if the horse needed beat, I was going to beat her.
Well, this morning I got a chance to run a compression check. 176-180 across the board. w00t!!! I've been tickled to death all morning. The cats not out of the bag yet, but it doesn't appear to be the rings.
Now, I'm thinking its something to do with the PCV system. I looked at the helms and it said: with the car idling, pinch the line going to the PCV valve and listen for clicking. Well, there's no clicking. I removed the PCV valve (what a PITA that is) and shook it around and there appears to be a slight rattle and i tried blowing through it both ways (only 1 way worked) and (I'm no expert or anything), but I'm not positive that its bad. I mean sure, I WANT the problem to be the PCV valve, but from my corny little tests, it seems to be ok... or does it?
Ok, onto more little tests: with the motor running, shouldn't there be a constant vacuum on the valve cover? With the motor running, I removed the oil cap and theres air (quite a bit) blowing out of the oil cap. I then removed the hose off the valve cover and there isn't a vacuum on the hose. This line is supposed to have a constant vacuum on it, right?
I ordered a new pcv valve and grommet earlier. Could this be the whole problem? Or does it sound like some vacuum lines are clogged up? Or something else wrong instead of - or in addition to - the pcv valve?
Thanks for the help guys,
-Mike
#2
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B-series motors are notorious for burning a little bit of oil but this sounds like a much bigger problem. Pour a dab of oil in each cylinder and compression test it again. If the test reads considerably higher, then it's the rings, if not it may be leaky valve seals.
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Re: (Kendall)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B-series motors are notorious for burning a little bit of oil but this sounds like a much bigger problem. Pour a dab of oil in each cylinder and compression test it again. If the test reads considerably higher, then it's the rings, if not it may be leaky valve seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The lowest cylinder read 176 and the highest read 180. The shop manual says highest is 199, with a minimum of 140 (or something) with a variance of up to 28 per cylinder. So, I dont see the problem being with the rings.
Did you see what I asked about the PCV Valve? I think the problem is something to do with that...
thanks,
-Mike
The lowest cylinder read 176 and the highest read 180. The shop manual says highest is 199, with a minimum of 140 (or something) with a variance of up to 28 per cylinder. So, I dont see the problem being with the rings.
Did you see what I asked about the PCV Valve? I think the problem is something to do with that...
thanks,
-Mike
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Problem with my GSR burning oil... (supadupamikey)
just because you have good compression it doesnt mean all your rings are good.
compression test only shows if your top compression rings are sealing good.....and by the sounds of those number there OK since they are all even but stock GSR's usually run 210-225 on all 4 cylinders.
im willing to bet your oil control rings are shot......if it uses that much oil in that short peiod of time then there is a major problem.......
good luck.
compression test only shows if your top compression rings are sealing good.....and by the sounds of those number there OK since they are all even but stock GSR's usually run 210-225 on all 4 cylinders.
im willing to bet your oil control rings are shot......if it uses that much oil in that short peiod of time then there is a major problem.......
good luck.
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Re: Problem with my GSR burning oil... (non-VTEC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just because you have good compression it doesnt mean all your rings are good.
compression test only shows if your top compression rings are sealing good.....and by the sounds of those number there OK since they are all even but stock GSR's usually run 210-225 on all 4 cylinders.
im willing to bet your oil control rings are shot......if it uses that much oil in that short peiod of time then there is a major problem.......
good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You beat me to it!!!
compression test only shows if your top compression rings are sealing good.....and by the sounds of those number there OK since they are all even but stock GSR's usually run 210-225 on all 4 cylinders.
im willing to bet your oil control rings are shot......if it uses that much oil in that short peiod of time then there is a major problem.......
good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You beat me to it!!!
#6
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Re: Problem with my GSR burning oil... (non-VTEC)
Yeah, I hate to tell you this but.
I'm running 215psi on all 4 cylinders, 265psi wet.
He's right though, compression test really doesn't do anything (Just tells you that you have compression), you need a leak down test which requires an air compressor. It will actually tell you how much air is escaping and from where.
I'm running 215psi on all 4 cylinders, 265psi wet.
He's right though, compression test really doesn't do anything (Just tells you that you have compression), you need a leak down test which requires an air compressor. It will actually tell you how much air is escaping and from where.
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#8
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Re: Problem with my GSR burning oil... (supadupamikey)
If you have a compressor, it goes in the same way a compression tester does, but you hook the air hose to it, it throws air into your cylinders and measures how much is getting out, it will tell you between 100-0%. Anywhere between 10-0% is good, above that you'll start having problems.
Typically you can pick one up or order one at any auto store. I got mine for 36 bucks. I just bought the single gauge with the % part. If I could do it again, I would spend a little more money and get the dual gauge setup.
Good luck man!
Typically you can pick one up or order one at any auto store. I got mine for 36 bucks. I just bought the single gauge with the % part. If I could do it again, I would spend a little more money and get the dual gauge setup.
Good luck man!
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