EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

1994 Integra GSR
Removed A/C couple months ago, Overheated even with it in the car.
Replaced: Radiator TWICE, thermostat TWICE, cap TWICE, Upper/Lower Hoses, 2 coolant hoses that connect behind the head of the motor, Overflow tank and cap, Water Pump, Fan Switch, heater inlet hose.

I've also: Bled the radiator after every re-filling of the radiator.

*Overheats while driving hard, will cool down when you turn up the heater in the car to MAX settings. Will act the same after driving for 30 mins or so in day time temperatures, then sitting at idle. DOES NOT shoot all the way to H, but will climb up to the 3/4 point of the guage.
*Radiator cap has fallen apart once. The fat o-ring held down by the lil metal clasp seperated from the cap.
*Overflow tank fills up to the top on hot days..... but wont go back down to MIN
*No leaks or loss of fluids
*No white,black, or colored smoke shoots out the back (Unless I downshift and hit it hard into vtec, but thats normal.)

Any ideas other than the head gasket????

Nonsteezy

Did u check to see if the cooling fan is any good? if u have to turn the heater on that mean's the ac fan is on and thats why it would cool it

thaiphob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nonsteezy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did u check to see if the cooling fan is any good? if u have to turn the heater on that mean's the ac fan is on and thats why it would cool it</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what i was gonna say

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

But I removed my AC system....along with the fan and condensor

confucius

does the temp drop right after you start moving?

if so, your fans arent working when they are suppose to.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by confucius &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the temp drop right after you start moving?

if so, your fans arent working when they are suppose to.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
not exactly right when I start moving, I mean it takes a little bit of time for the temp to drop. But I need to have the heater on as well, or else it wont drop down as quickly as with it on.

NightRiderS2K

Do your fans turn on at all?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Yup cooling fan turns on....The condensor fan does not because it has been removed

95lstegman

you sure it comes on fully? i mean, maybe the motor is about to die, but hasn't yet. when you open the hood and put your face a foot above tha fan, you should REALLY REALLY want to move your face b/c of strong wind and high heat. it's very powerful. make sure it's working right. the other thing i was thinking at the beginning is i was wondering if you installed the thermostat right. but now that i think about it, it takes a long time to heat up, so i don't think that's it. but i would like to know which fan you removed. the one on the passenger side is the radiator fan and should not be removed.

beavis

oes it overheat with the heat on 4?

DA6righthand

did you mix your coolant rite? how many miles? if theres alot of miles your cooling system might need flushed

hondaluva

You might also wanna check you coolant temp sensors...I think there is one near the thermostat and one on the back of the cluster..not completely sure on locations. There might be a malfunction there. Back me up on this one guys

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you sure it comes on fully? i mean, maybe the motor is about to die, but hasn't yet. when you open the hood and put your face a foot above tha fan, you should REALLY REALLY want to move your face b/c of strong wind and high heat. it's very powerful. make sure it's working right. the other thing i was thinking at the beginning is i was wondering if you installed the thermostat right. but now that i think about it, it takes a long time to heat up, so i don't think that's it. but i would like to know which fan you removed. the one on the passenger side is the radiator fan and should not be removed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, the fan doesn't blow as hard as you say...and I removed the driver's side fan, in front of the conpressor. I did do a lil bit of reading before I went ahead and ripped things out.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA6righthand &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you mix your coolant rite? how many miles? if theres alot of miles your cooling system might need flushed</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do believe my coolant mix is correct, I did recently flush the whole system. Total 4 flushes in 5 months.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaluva &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might also wanna check you coolant temp sensors...I think there is one near the thermostat and one on the back of the cluster..not completely sure on locations. There might be a malfunction there. Back me up on this one guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

The location of the ECT sending unit is on the head of the motor, under the distributor area and has a 1 wire connector. SO far, it reads fine. Will try with aftermarket gauge and sender.

95lstegman

the coolant temp sensor going bad won't cause it to overheat, it may just cause the fan not to come on. if it's coming on, coolant temp sensor isn't the culprit. the only thing i can think of if the fan blows fairly hard (as opposed to not at all) is that you didn't install the thermostat properly. i'm thinking you didn't install the gasket right. if i remember correctly off the top of my head, it goes on in a certain orientation. i would check your install procedure for that.

if thermostat installation procedure is good, i would imagine that there is a blockage somewhere. did this problem happen right after installing some goody? that's usually the case.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

T-stat install requires the gasket to have the round cut match up with the pin on the t-stat. Then the 2 grooves must meet with the grooves on the waterpipe. the lower hose does get hot, but the fan may be on its way out...

95lstegman

well, if the hose gets hot, and you installed the thermostat correctly, i guess you're good to go. probably the fan then. BTW, chech witch direction the t-stat points. it goes in a certain way i believe, so that the pressure of the water in the engine opens it. the radiator won't generate pressure to open it, so it has to point the right way. just covering all the bases here, not to belittle you.

rustyhatch

you may be running too much antifreeze and not enough water. you will overheat with too much antifreeze. it has low thermal gain/loss. try running 10% antifreeze. you are in florida. no problems with it ever freezing hard. you have to run SOME antifreeze to keep the water pump seal swelled up. try it, even if you have some slight blockage in the head from debris floating arouind the coolant system it will help a bunch. i had to do this on my old toyota truck with a hot cam and holley 4 barrel when i lived in texas. when i tore down the engine to put a ported 20r head on it i found pieces of old radiator hose in the coolant holes. it looked like the hose de-laminated on the inside and dime size chunks were all over.

95lstegman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rustyhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found pieces of old radiator hose in the coolant holes. it looked like the hose de-laminated on the inside and dime size chunks were all over. </TD></TR></TABLE>
for keeping maintenance current. when Honda tells you to replace the damn hoses, do it you cheap bastards! haha

reza"

head gasket.

G1 TEGGY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">head gasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>
head gasket would cause a leak into the combustion chamber and produce smoke, he already said no smoke\

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, if the hose gets hot, and you installed the thermostat correctly, i guess you're good to go. probably the fan then. BTW, chech witch direction the t-stat points. it goes in a certain way i believe, so that the pressure of the water in the engine opens it. the radiator won't generate pressure to open it, so it has to point the right way. just covering all the bases here, not to belittle you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I apologize if it seemed like I was on the defensive side. I didn't take your previous comment in a bad way, though my response sounded like I did. I do appreciate your replies and feedback.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rustyhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you may be running too much antifreeze and not enough water. you will overheat with too much antifreeze. it has low thermal gain/loss. try running 10% antifreeze. you are in florida. no problems with it ever freezing hard. you have to run SOME antifreeze to keep the water pump seal swelled up. try it, even if you have some slight blockage in the head from debris floating arouind the coolant system it will help a bunch. i had to do this on my old toyota truck with a hot cam and holley 4 barrel when i lived in texas. when i tore down the engine to put a ported 20r head on it i found pieces of old radiator hose in the coolant holes. it looked like the hose de-laminated on the inside and dime size chunks were all over. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm actually in California...hehe. But i have been debating about the coolant mix, since mine is strongly green in color.

I appreciate all the replies so far. I must say this is the most helpful thread so far, for my situation. As of right now, I jumpered the fan switch and will run with that in rush hour traffic (in about 1 hour from now) to see the result.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black95gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oes it overheat with the heat on 4?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only if I feather the throttle as well.

95lstegman

actually, my rad. fan doesn't come on at all by itself. it's now wired to a $2 switch with a spare fuse inline straight to the battery before the switch. didn't feel like tracking down the problem, and i need to be able to drive and not F around trying to figure out important things like this. surprisingly, the car can take several minutes of sitting still after being fully warmed up before it actually needs the fan to come on. i'm okay in almost all stop-and-go traffic, even really bad traffic, without ever touching the switch. BTW, i hit the switch as soon as the needle moves from its normal location.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95lstegman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, my rad. fan doesn't come on at all by itself. it's now wired to a $2 switch with a spare fuse inline straight to the battery before the switch. didn't feel like tracking down the problem, and i need to be able to drive and not F around trying to figure out important things like this. surprisingly, the car can take several minutes of sitting still after being fully warmed up before it actually needs the fan to come on. i'm okay in almost all stop-and-go traffic, even really bad traffic, without ever touching the switch. BTW, i hit the switch as soon as the needle moves from its normal location.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats exactly what i'm doing right now, before my ride in traffic. Did you use a 20a Switch with a 20a fuse inline?

I sure wish you were in so cal...I'd have you rebuild my tranny in a snap of a finger... good pricing....