gs-R_swap

have you adjusted the gold screw on the tb?

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Not yet, I am going to take care of the fitv first just to make sure.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Okay, I am a welder and a buddy of mine and I were getting ready to weld on a new pipe when we noticed some fuel in the muffler. I would say it was about 6oz. Could I have of tightened the throttle cable too much or is that something else. I noticed the car billows black smoke too. This has all been just recently.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Bump for answers.

AK77

Throttle Cable - You can even dettach the throttle cable since its not needed at idle anyways to rule that one out.

FITV Test - Remove Air intake duct from throttle body, find the passage hole that the FITV connects to. Start your car and place a finger on that hole, you should feel suction. Let the car warm up to normal temp, place your finger there again and you should feel no suction, if you still do then the valve has not closed. Its bad and should be replaced.

Coolant Temperature Sensor - One more thing to test based on the fuel you found and it running rich. Most likely, located next to the Distributor on the head. This is the one with two wires. To test this you need a digital multimeter or ohm meter. You have to start this test when the engine is cold.

1. Disconnect the connector from the sensor and check the resistance between the two pins on the sensor, not the connector.
2. With engine cold, it should be around 2000 ohms or 2k, or even higher.
3. Run the engine for about 2mins and check the resistance again. This time it should be significantly lower, around 500-800 ohms.

If the resistance does not drop significantly then the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. Its telling your ECU that the engine is below normal operating temperature and therefore the ECU is feeding it extra fuel which is causing it to run rich.

After you check all these items, if it still idles around 2k adjust your idle as described in the manual. Sometimes the idle adjustment screw can lose traction in the threads so apply a silicon sealant to lock it in place after adjusting it.

Have you checked your timing yet?

AK77

To gs-R Swap:
1. Check your spark plugs to make sure they r not fouled. If they r, what's the condition of the tips for example, r they whitish, black, oily?
2. Check your spark plug wires for leaks
3. Check your ignition timing
4. When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter?

gs-R_swap

to ak77:
1)the tips are a lil black
2)i think ima replace the spark plug wires cause i havent changed them since i bought the car 7 months ago, whats a good brand or kind you would suggest?
3)just did the timing on the engine about a month ago, not certain if it was done right though, whats a good way to check?
4) i havent replaced the fuel filter either, i think this car needs a good tune up...

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Thanks man, I'll get on it.

AK77

gs-R swap:

To check your Ignition Timing you'll need an Ignition Timing Light. I got a cheap one from harborfreight.com, nothing fancy but gets the job done. As far as your issue is concerned, I think replacing the spark plugs with the correct gap and the fuel filter should be it. Use NGK plugs for your car, they are pre-gapped for your engine so you don't have to mess with getting the correct gap. Also if the fuel filter is clogged it would do the same exact thing so replace that as well, especially if its too old.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Update: I cleaned out the Fitv, the car idled fine for a while. Then it started to to jump slightly. It is better than before but still not right. I took it for a test drive and now it is throwing codes 7, 10 and 43. Any ideas?

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Bump for answers.

AK77

Sounds like something is not plugged in or a short somewhere. How is it running? Take a look at the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, make sure its plugged in and not shorting out. I mentioned above how to test it so check it to make sure its working within specs. Here are the code descriptions:

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) System Indicated
0 Engine Control Module (ECM)
1 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor)
4 Crankshaft Position (CKP Sensor)
6 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT Sensor)
7 Throttle Position (TP Sensor)
8 Top Dead Center Position (TDC Sensor)
9 No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP Sensor)
10 Intake Air Temperature (IAT Sensor)
13 Barometric Pressure (BARO Sensor)
14 Idle Air Control (IAC Valve)
15 Ignition Output Signal
16 Fuel Injector
17 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
20 Electrical Load Detector (ELD)
21 Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control Solenoid Valve (VTEC Solenoid Valve)
22 Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control Pressure Switch (VTEC Pressure Switch)
23 Knock Sensor (KS)
30 A/T FI Signal A
31 A/T FI Signal B
41 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater
43 Fuel Supply System

vtek9

could be the fuel pump. check that out.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

It runs good, Just idles at 1800 and then will go down to about 1200 and then jump up and down between, 1200 and 1500. I haven't had a chance to check the sensor yet. Thanks.

AK77

Lets start with adjusting the IDLE first, it's set too high. Here's how to check and adjust the Idle:

1. Start the car and let it warm up to normal operating temperature. Then stand around the driver fender side so you can reach around and disconnect the electrical connector off the EACV, which is bolted to the back of the Intake. As soon as you unplug the connector, Check Engine light will come one and that's ok, we'll reset the ECU after this adjustment to get rid of it.
2. Idle should now drop to around 650-750, if its higher than this then it needs simple adjustment and that should fix the problem. If it doesn't need adjustment, skip to step 3.
2. To adjust the Idle, you'll have to go to the other side of the car and use a flat head screw driver to tighten the idle adjustment screw till the idle drops to 700. As you turn this screw you'll notice that even a slight turn effects the idle speed therefore move it accordingly. This adjustment screw is located right on top of the throttle body.
3. Once the Idle is adjusted down to 700, turn the car off and take the 10amp Hazard fuse out for 10 seconds, located most likely at the positive terminal of the battery.
4. Reconnect the electrical connector to EACV, put the fuse back in and start the car. Let it warm up again, this time the Idle should rest right around 750.

Also, you didn't mention the error codes, do you still see any codes?

gs-R_swap

what does it mean when the tips of the spark plugs are white

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

No more codes, also I found another coolant leak and fixed it. I filled the coolant as well. Then reset the ecu, no more codes. I adjusted the throttle screw. The motor started to idle at 1200 and didn't move. A nice smooth idle. I took it for a long test drive, then the idle started to drop to 0 and the oil light started coming back on below 1k. It isn't doing the jumping idle thing though.

95twotoneteg

mine did that and my compression was low might want to check all compressions or timing like distributor

Fortitude

Idle Screw Ftw!

AK77

1. Have you checked the Coolant Temp sensor yet?

2. IDLE at 1200 is too high. It needs to be adjusted down to 650-700 rpm with the connector off of the EACV, then car turned off, hazard fuse removed for 10 seconds, reconnect the plug to EACV, then start the car, let it warm up and see if the idle is stable at 750 or so.

3. Spark plug gap, check it, it should be 0.041". Replace with NGK if they r faulty, the correct NGK plug will come pregapped so you don't have to mess with the gapping. Also, wehn you pull your plugs look at the condition of the tips and report back.

4. What thickness of oil are you using? Low Oil pressure can mean many things including worn out rod bearings but it could be as simple as using poor quality cheap oil of wrong rating or oil too thin.

AK77

Here's a Spark plug condition chart from NGK:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...qs/faqread.asp

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

Just changed the oil with penzoil 5w30. Changed the plugs I already threw them out. They looked decent shape but were some autolites from walmart so I figured the new NGK's would help. I keep forgetting about the temp plug I will work on that next. Thanks.

AK77

Just a recommendation, use Mobile1 or Vavoline for oil. A little more expensive but worth it, engine can last longer. Adjust your idle if you haven't yet, its set too high if sits at 1200rpm.

Devon M

iTrader: (4)

I use Royal Purple in my R with an OEM S2k filter but I bought my 1990 Integra for $100 so I am trying to go uber cheap.

Edwin Gonzalez

Im having similar problems with low fluctuating idle and sometimes shuts off while driving. Try your brake booster. Turn car on and idle only acts up when in neutral or stepping on brake pedal