tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I've been piecing together my LSV since last year, and I'm just about almost there... The car is going into is my BONESTOCK 94 LS (automatic). So yes im doing a auto to manual swap as well as taking out that LS and putting the new swap in. not sure if im overlooking anything or if anybody has any last minute suggestions/advice,tips LMK.. and BTW I have searched a zillion times in tons of forums.This will be my all-motor DD, so i would prefer reliability and some fun. hoping to get close to 200hp.. based on Zeals comp ratio calc im coming in around 12.75:1! but with a thick head gasket (maybe .050") should drop to about a good 11.85:1


Here's what I have:
P72 GSR head
3 angle valve job and milled .005
P72 Chipped ECU w/ ITR basemap tuned by Neal Sutton
Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold 1st gen
New AEM short ram intake
AEM fuel rail
Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator + gauge
RC370cc injectors (new OEM O-rings and seals)
Stock Gsr 60mm TB
New Walbro 255lph fuel pump
NGK BKR7E plugs and NGK wires
Skunk2 Pro series: valve springs and ti retainers
Ferrea Valves Bronze dished (F#6049)
New Supertech Bronze Valve Guides and Stem seals
Buddy Club 3+ Cams
New Skunk2 Cam cam gears (6 bolt)
New Blox Cam Seals
ARP LSV Head studs
New Yonaka ITR-style 4-1 headers
New Yonaka 2.5” Hi-flow cat
NEW Cometic LSV Head gasket 81.5mm Bore .051" part#C4236-051

B18A block Hone and bored to 81.5mm
Decked .004
Bottom End Assembled and Balanced BY RPM
LS Crank Micropolished
New NPR PR3 81.5mm pistons and rings
Re-conditioned stock LS Rods w/ ARP Rod Bolts
ACL Rod,main,thrust Bearings
ITR oil pump
New GSR water pump
GSR OEM Timing Belt
New Blackworks magnetic Oil Drain Plug
New Golden Eagle LSV conversion kit
New OEM thermostat housing and thermostat



00' B16 S4C tranny
NEW Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit
ACT 12lb Flywheel (re-surfaced)
New ARP Flywheel bolts
New ARP Pressure Plate bolts
New Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings
Auto to manual parts (C/B/G pedals,linkage,cyl, lines, t brckt)
USDM Type R Cluster
GSR shifter console
New Skunk2 Type R style 440g shifter
New Hasport auto to manual mount
Manual starter
GSR throttle cable
front tranny/tq mount

and a TON of new OEM gaskets/seals etc..

Parts still missing:
wideband o2 sensor

Dom93

looks good to me! if i was you i would seriously just get the skunk2 throttle body! so far this looks like a sweet set up! bc3+ cams are great, they make great power from low to mid range, so they are good for daily drive use! and for the ls/vtec conversion kit, get the sandwich plate (it will be easier on your life trust me).. dont forget to get the gsr or type r timing belt sense ur using the GSR water pump and ITR oil pump! and i sure hope your using ARP head studs!

DirtyDA9

Just know that everything I am about to tell you is to save you a good chunk of money without sacrificing power.

-Stick with the stock GSR manifold.
-Go with a 3" short ram with velocity stack and filter.
-There is no need for the fuel rail, or adjustable FPR for that matter.
-Go with RDX 410cc or DSM 440/450cc injectors.
-As for the Farrea valves with skunk springs/retainers, farrea valves need farrea lockers, which should be used with farrea retainers which need to be used with farrea springs. So either go all farrea, or think about new valves. I would go all supertech valvetrain, great stuff, and much cheaper than skunk and farrea.
-You said ACL and OEM bearings, just go with one or the other.
-You forgot to mention a fuel pump, get a walboro 255lph
-Make sure you get a Manual P72 ECU
-What will you be using to tune?
-For the trans you still need shift linkages and speedo cable, unless the trans comes with them. I also recommend getting a manual cluster.


But other than that you seem to be on the right track, keep it up :thumup: If you ever have anymore questions feel free to PM me.

Be sure to start a build thread a post tons of pictures

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

@DOM thanks, def am going to use the gsr timing belt and ARP gsr head studs.. i just ordered the golden eagle vtec conversion kit...
@DirtyDA9 where were you when I started to buy all my stuff!! lol j'k. well as tempting as saving $$ sounds, don't know if i want to prolong the project anymore by selling some of my stuff and buying some of those stock items?!... everything on my list I already have .except the TB, still debating size (68mm or 65mm) I've also heard the gsr stock IM is very restricting?.. As for the trans I do need the shift linkage still and speedo cable, i just bought a USDM cluster today..The ferrea valves interesting i didn't know that will have to read up and perhaps trade these for some skunk2 flat face valves?.. and fuel pump going to add that now... thanks.. all advice and suggestions are def appreciated.

DirtyDA9

You are going to need a GSR cable if you are using the GSR TB.
GSR manifold is actually very well desined it's just like VTEC, efficiant in both low and high RPM ranges using different runners, just like VTEC cams use different lobes.
You will still want to upgrade to bigger injectors like I suggested.
Just buy a velocity stack and filter for your AEM.
What will you be tuning with? Don't forget to get a wideband o2 sensor, critical for tuning.

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

also I was thinking wether the 370cc injectors were already too big? the guy that i bought the head from was running a high comp.. head w/ Skunk2 Pro2 cams.. but I was wondering wether i should sell these and drop down to 310cc or not worth the hassle..

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

370cc are fine.

DirtyDA9

That's why you adjust the pulse width and duty cycle. I always like to go a little bigger so you have room to grow, like if you decide you want more hp, you don't want to have to buy a nother set of injectors everytime you add more mods.

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,I did update my list of things needed with your suggestions to keep in mind. I have my block (swap ready) with the GSR pistons/LS rods/ARP bolts mounted... but i also have a set of PR3 pistons/LS rods/ARP bolts as well on the side... although I would love to have the PR3 pistons installed I'd hate to have to have the shop take all that apart to switch pistons (then ofc i'd need new pistons rings,bearings etc as well $).. so think im going to leave the p72 pistons on, but to raise my CR a bit though i was thinking of buying a Buddy club Thin HG and bump like .3+ on the CR i think.. would be much easier.. any thoughts anyone?... as far as tuning the shop thats doing all the work will due the tuning i still have to get with them closer to build time and discuss that part..

DirtyDA9

But you need an socketed and chipped ECU for them to tune on, they can't tune a stock ECU.

And just swap the pistons yourself, it's not hard at all, you will need a ring compressor to put the new pistons/rods in. You can reuse the bearings you have in there. Trust me it will be worth it, and it's really not hard at all.

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Thanks think I might just go ahead and use those Pr3 pistons and sell off the p72 ones .. the higher CR would def be much better than getting it through shaved head/think HG.. Im still kind of debating and searching around whether to go with my stock gsr IM/TB and sell the skunk2 mani to $ (as i also wouldnt have buy a bigger TB either $)*OR* use the SK2 IM and buy a bigger TB to go w/ it.. seeying this will be my daily i keep reading that stock gsr IM is better for DD..? im possibly picking up a chipped and socketed P72 OBD1 ECU tomorrow for $80 running an ITR basemap tuned by neal sutton..

DirtyDA9

Depends on what the chip is if it can actually be tuned or just burned, you don't want to run a basemap for too long. And yes GSR manifold is great for bottom end power.

phaphon

Don't swap the pistonss and rods yourself if you don't know how to measure your clearance and set your rings

civicjunkie17

iTrader: (1)

If he's using the same crank, rods, and bearings it shouldn't be a problem. But if he's using arp rod bolts I would get a machine shop to check the inside diameter of the big end of the connecting rod to make sure it's still round.

DirtyDA9

The rods in there already have ARP's on them, he just has another set on the side and more arps sitting with the PR3's. So I would just take the pistons and rods out of the enging, take the P72's off and put the PR3's on those rods.

phaphon

Well yeah he can do it that way but I don't think he is trying to use more money but if he was using the rods it might work Cuase i know when putting the p72 pistonss on a ls rods the rods would need to be shaved a little

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys thanks.. like I said all is appreciated, the more I learn u know...to clear up things. The block as it is assembled now, has P72 pistons on LS rods w/ ARPs... On the side sitting i have a set of PR3 Pistons on LS rods w/ ARPs already assmebled... the guy thats going to do all the work for me is going to handle all that, just wasn't sure if it was worth it or just get a thinner HG.. but might as well use em if i got em.. Reason i didn't do it was exactly that i keep reading here and there about specific clearances and tolerances so yea.. and the ecu was re-tunable..picking that up in about shortly.

phaphon

cool sounds like your going to be having fun. i had lots of fun with my first lsv

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

thanks i def hope so... plus going from a stock automatic LS , im sure will help things ev

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

*help make things even better*

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

havent updated in a while.. had the block and head disassembled. Ordered new 81.5mm npr pr3 pistons and npr rings set..once I receive those will take head and block to the machine shop take care all the good stuff.. hopefully another two weeks will be dropping the car off for the swap and auto to manual conversion.

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Correct me if im wrong please, after playing w/ the CR calcs for a bit, i believe my comp ratio should be around 12.2-12.5:1. I would ilke to lower this CR a bit to stay as close to or below 12:1. Being this is my DD, I would like to try lower the CR a bit for some reliability.. being that the pistons are already purchased and machine shop should have them pressed in by today on the block.. i think the easiest route would be HG size.. Should a .40-.43 HG be good enough to lower cr under 12:1 and still be good enough or is that rassing risk for blown HG ? thoughts?

Recaro

Nice setup man, im about to go b20 vtec as soon as get all my proper mods. Ima just slap on the b20 like that, I migt use this as a reference since ls n b20 almost the same.

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, nice B20 should give you that nice TQ.. you should def check out the how to build an LS vtec thread on here theres detailed steps and pages and pages of info...

tamparican

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully getting assembled next weekend, belive all im missing is the head gasket at this point..and im still undecided. My current comp ratio is goign to be around 12.7:1 w/ OEM gasket.. if i get a Cometic .050" HG it would drop to about 11.85:1? any suggestions, ive read some ppl were perfectly fine w/ Cometic, others not so much..need to order HG ASAP..