ftisthebest

ok so i have a 1996 honda civic with a gsr swap, it has conversion harness from obd2 to obd1 it runs fine but the idle goes up and down, until it warms up and than when i come to a stop it shuts off instantly or sometimes it doesnt but it idles super low and come back up. It also seems like its running really rich or something because when i give it alot of gas it just bogs super hard and barely gets going when i give it more than 40% throttle, i have changed the following.
TPS and calibrated it, fuel pump, fuel filter, i have checked for vacuum leaks, iacv, plugs, wires, distributor, air filter, one of the o2 sensors. now im caught between many things, should i get fuel injectors even though i can hear them clicking with the fuel injector strew driver test, should i get a map sensor? could it be my coolant temp sensor under the distributor, could my conversion harness suck? the guy i bought it from said it passed emissions with the obd2 so should i just go back to it? thanks again

fcm

Check the ECT sensor, not to be confused with the ECT switch, [for the rad fan] or the ECT sending unit, [for temperature gauge].

The ECT sensor tells the ECU the engine temp. so when engine is cooled the A/F ratio is rich, [for starting a cold engine, then leans out the A/F ratio as engine warms up, if it's not working the engine will run rich once warmed up. 94

wunfstgsr

Which o2 did you change? if your running a obd1 ecu setup with that conversion harness your running on the bank1 o2 sensor or the one thats first on the cat closer to the engine, or if your running a after market header and the o2 is on the end by the collector thats the one that should be changed. The ect sensor is also a good thing to check and sounds like it could be that or a bad o2 sensor. Clean the IACV with brake cleaner just to be sure its not the iacv and check the plug wires to it.

Was it running good when you got and this happened recently?

ftisthebest

so its always been running bad is the ect sensor the one directly underneath the distributor or is the one on the by one of the main coolant hoses that attaches to the engine thanks again for your guys input but i changed the one before the cat which would be the obd1 o2 sensor

HondaPartsHero

trm4life

Usually is the coil if it runs bad hot.

wunfstgsr

It's the engine coolant temp sensor! Under the vtec solinoid. The smaller engine coolant sending unit is wired to the temp gauge.

ftisthebest

wasnt the ect literally no change, changed it out with a good one and nothing happened i also got a obd2a ecu for it and it seems to idle maybe a little bit better but still dies when warmed up and coming to a stop

wunfstgsr

iacv clean it or get a new one.

ftisthebest

i have a completely new iacv is there something i need to do to it other than just bolt it on and hook up the coolant lines and plug? i feel like my problem may be electrical sometimes when its warmed up and i come to a stop it stays at the same idle sometimes it almost dies on me but in general its just running super rich could it be an o2 sensor? i heard that you dont wanna change them though unless you have a CEL? like i have no idea why its running so bad ive replaced so much and didnt make alot of change im gonna try checking my spark plugs again

wunfstgsr

A O2 sensor will deff cause all sorts of performance issues. Sometimes they give you problems before they give off a check engine code. My stock 96 DX with 2000 spec D16y7 replacment engine i recently got started to loose power big time so i checked my ign timing with a gun and it was way off! so i reset timing and man does it have allot more power and the new o2 for bank 1 just made it run smoother. I mean i thought these lil D16y7 engines were weak but it actually has some pep in its step but has to be in a light shell like my EK that it comes in but it does the job as my daily and im very pleased restoring some power by re seting the ignition timing!

ftisthebest

can i just mess with the ignition timing instead of the actual mechanical timing im hoping the mechanical timing is on mainly because i dont have the tools to necessarily check mechanical timing but would messing with ignition timing make a big difference?

fcm

Tools?? all you need is your eyes to check mechanical timing. 94

wunfstgsr

lol

yea if the ign timing is off it will restore allot of power and performance! and mech just set the engine to tdc at the crank pulley with the vc off and check the cam, ign timing is very simple to check so yea check those.