Fuel pump not priming
#1
Fuel pump not priming
I was driving my 94 Teggy and my fuel pump died. I've replaced the fuel pump, main relay and checked the fuse still no prime. What could the problem be
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Fuel pump not priming
did you just assume fuel pump/main relay and replace them check the SRS fuse it has a connection to the main relay tho not listed.
#3
Re: Fuel pump not priming
The main relay and FP were the originals, so I figured I should do it anyway. Why would the SRS fuse affect the fuel pump its for the air bags isn't it? I'm still a little new to cars. Also I'm not seeing spark in the plugs now.
#4
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Re: Fuel pump not priming
sounds like you have more than one issue.
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#5
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Re: Fuel pump not priming
I wouldn't write off the fuel pump and relay, just because they were replaced. I mistakenly replaced the pump on my 90. A month later a e-clip and check ball came loose at the top (never fell out of place, but the car died). OEM went back in, and got my money back on the repro.
I had also replaced the pump relay, which was the problem. Got a few months out of the repro, and a relay contact pin had managed to slide out of position. Reinstalled the pin and glued at the top so it won't happen again. Problem solved. Had the relay been mounted upright in the factory orientation, it wouldn't have happened, but still not good. The aftermarket is not 100% identical in design to the OEM, where the contact dislodging wouldn't have happened to it. Since the relay mounting bracket is difficult to get to and I had resoldered the OEM once, I didn't mount it properly. I now have the solution for that, without removing the under dash panel. You can use a screwdriver to open the locking tabs on the case of the relay, while it's mounted in place. Next pull the circuit board out and push a new on into place and then push the plug in. I now have the circuit board of the OEM in my glove box, which I determined would probably work in a pinch, as it will start the car after a good tap or so.
I had also replaced the pump relay, which was the problem. Got a few months out of the repro, and a relay contact pin had managed to slide out of position. Reinstalled the pin and glued at the top so it won't happen again. Problem solved. Had the relay been mounted upright in the factory orientation, it wouldn't have happened, but still not good. The aftermarket is not 100% identical in design to the OEM, where the contact dislodging wouldn't have happened to it. Since the relay mounting bracket is difficult to get to and I had resoldered the OEM once, I didn't mount it properly. I now have the solution for that, without removing the under dash panel. You can use a screwdriver to open the locking tabs on the case of the relay, while it's mounted in place. Next pull the circuit board out and push a new on into place and then push the plug in. I now have the circuit board of the OEM in my glove box, which I determined would probably work in a pinch, as it will start the car after a good tap or so.
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03-27-2015 03:58 PM