s2kkid

Like the title says, I just cranked up my b18c1 after a rebuild, and i found that when im sitting at idle, the oil light flickers/ blinks.

I rev up the rpms and somtimes this will go away.

When I drive the car, the light stops

Engine was redone with everything, includeing a new oil pump.

What could possibly be my problem?

s2kkid

bump, for help

blkb18

Your oil pressure is low. Any leaks? Any unusual noises? Did you do the build?

CleanLikeJdm

Oil pressure would be a good buy for something like that, You could see if it Actually does go down when your at idle.

Could just be some faulty wiring also that makes it flicker.

GTWITIT

I have this Problem as we speak Check your oil pressure sending unit the only reason i havent fixed mine is because i have an external oil pressure guage. and it says i got good pressure

s2kkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blkb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your oil pressure is low. Any leaks? Any unusual noises? Did you do the build?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn...

I dont see why its low... I need to hook a guage up on it and check, Where can I get something to check it?

I dont hear any real unusual noise other than the Power steering pump has a little air in it from the engine being removed. The lifters are a little loud but have slowly quieted down.

I did the rebuild, With a brand new oil pump...

Where can i get a guage, and what are the specs on oil pressure at idle, and a spec at upper rpm?

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I had a problem with my oil light flashing continually with the engine running, the problem turned out to be my alternator. A flashing oil light is supposed to indicate only a momentary loss in oil pressure (not a sustained low oil pressure condition), and it's supposed to go away the next time you start the car (but it didn't on mine, it flashed every time I started it), which is how I knew I was having some other problem. However I never drove it in that condition so I don't know if it would have gone out while driving or not.

s2kkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a problem with my oil light flashing continually with the engine running, the problem turned out to be my alternator. A flashing oil light is supposed to indicate only a momentary loss in oil pressure (not a sustained low oil pressure condition), and it's supposed to go away the next time you start the car (but it didn't on mine, it flashed every time I started it), which is how I knew I was having some other problem. However I never drove it in that condition so I don't know if it would have gone out while driving or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>

right now anything is a possiblilty.... The car sat for 4 months tore apart... I figured that id have issues..

I got some CEL's but Im not worried about that, I want to make sure my engine invested the money in is pumping oil properly. So

I guess the objective is, to find out if im actually getting good oil pressure, if so, I can diagnose if electrical issue.

Dan GSR

either the sending unit is bad
or you could be loosing a lot of pressure somewhere, too loose of bearings will do that

s2kkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">either the sending unit is bad
or you could be loosing a lot of pressure somewhere, too loose of bearings will do that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh ****.. I used acl greens... Crank wasnt cut just micropolished

I hope im ok..

Honda Hick

I would definately get an oil pressure gauge hooked up so you know what your actual pressure is instead of just the stupid dummy light. Knowing the oil pressure is important on a new build so you know everything is working correctly. You could possibly have a piece of gasket stuck in an oil gally, or problems with the bearings, who knows. Revving the engine to make the oil pressure light go away is just asking for trouble. Spend the $30-$40 for a mechanical oil pressure gauge and then you'll really know whats going on.

earl

I agree with Honda HIck. Get that guage installed and see where you are really at with oil pressure. You did use a gasket between the oil pick-up and oil pump, correct?

s2kkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree with Honda HIck. Get that guage installed and see where you are really at with oil pressure. You did use a gasket between the oil pick-up and oil pump, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I reused the origional one since it looked in decent shape with no tears. Tightened it down good and tight, it actually squished in when i tightened it.

Can I use one of those mechanical guage sets they sell at the parts store? you know with the tubing?

Is this what Everyone was talking about?

Dan GSR

reusing oil pickup gaket

do you rinse out your condoms and resuse them?

Honda Hick

Yea, those mechanical gauges with the tube is what you want. Try to get an Autometer or other big brand gauge. You're going to need an adapter also to go from your metric block to the included adapter. Do some searching on what you need exactly, I get confused over the BST, NPT, or whatever thread pitches .

s2kkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reusing oil pickup gaket

do you rinse out your condoms and resuse them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ordered the Oil pump assembly from acura online, I put the engine together on a saturday. I realised it did not come with a gasket, I looked at the gasket, it looked good, so i put it back in the postion it came off.

The condition of the light has changed since last night. I didnt come on for atleast 5 mins of running. It will blink now in a orderly fasion, Like patrick mentioned, like he said its a momentary loss if any at all.

I will get a guage check it, and if i am low, ill drop the pan right quick and fix that, and check for anything else..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Hick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, those mechanical gauges with the tube is what you want. Try to get an Autometer or other big brand gauge. You're going to need an adapter also to go from your metric block to the included adapter. Do some searching on what you need exactly, I get confused over the BST, NPT, or whatever thread pitches .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will do. I need to know How much pressure is good? Someone list some specs.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Well you rebuilt the engine, don't you have a Helms manual? It has all the specs.

As for the pressure light flashing, if the sensor detects a drop in pressure that is less than a certain period of time, like 1 or 2 seconds, then returns to normal, it will signal the integrated control unit to make the oil pressure light flash. A steady drop in oil pressure just grounds the sensor circuit and makes the light come on, but if it's flashing, it's not because the oil pressure is steadily going up and down, but rather just because the ICU is making it flash. Then after you turn off the car that signal is erased from the ICU memory, unless there is a momentary pressure loss again (or an electrical problem, like was the case with my alternator making the oil pressure light flash).

If it did not start flashing at a steady rate immediately after you started the car, then the alternator is probably not your problem.

Honda Hick

The Honda's that I've seen including mine after my rebuild had about 20 psi at operating temp at idle. WOT about 80 psi.

s2kkid

What can I use to get that sending unit off? Its tight back there..

Honda Hick

I used a big *** deep socket. I don't have real big metric sockets so I used something like 1 1/16" socket or something.

aspec101

That is really ghetto to reuse old gaskets... You can buy a complete engine gasket set for the b-series for around 150 includes everything even valve seals. Using any old gasket is like dropping all that money on parts and crossing your fingers hoping the old gaskets will hold up. Gaskets are a one time use for almost all apps. but some exhaust gaskets can be reused w/o problems. Didn't you plastic gauge everything prior to final assembly? What about torqing everthing to spec? Just using the old hick method of tightning it till it squished the gasket will only cause problems.

s2kkid

I hooked up a guage.

I didnt want to take it for a drive with wot untill i was sure.

Im sowing 40 at 4k
30 at 3k

Idle is saying 0 right now. It was saying 20, but when i bled the air out by opening the line up it went to 0 and wont come up unless up the revs... I noticed there is a kink in the line that may be causeing some of these problems.

Anyway, Assumeing everything was right with the guage,
What causes The pressures i listed above but none at idle?

I really hope that is too bad to be true.

GTWITIT

0 at idol, no good i would check that gasket first because u know u shouldn't have reused it. i would start there

BuddhaSiR

did you plastigage the bearings? Plastigage is a must in my book and anyone with a helms manual.

boosted k20

at 3K you should be at 70-80 psi. idel should be at 20 psi.

u most likely have bad clearance on the crank or the oil pump is not sealing right. get yo self some plastigage and check the clearance on the crank and get a new oil pump gasket