daochihung

I installed a God Speed aluminum radiator in my 2001 Acura GS-R with slim fans. At first everything was okay. I got a new thermostat too since the tubing was being changed as well. Now recently, it takes a long time for the engine to warm up. When it does it then idols normal and everything. The thing is that if it's a chilly day or I'm driving at high speeds the temp gauge all of a sudden drops and when I stop at a light it then idols as if the engine is cold. Any suggestions on what it might be? I thought maybe the temp sensor is bad or maybe the thermostat is stuck open? Not sure if that's common or not. Anything suggestions help. Thanks

AcuraLsSE

I'm not too sure but it sounds to me like that thermostat is stuck open.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Re bleed your coolant system again.

racebum

thermostat is stuck open, replace it and re bleed

91_LS

My motor dose the same thing and the TS is new but it still dose it. What other things will make this happen?? Not trying to thread jack, just don't see a point on making another thread about the same thing. And i did bleed the system so its not that. I have a 95 JDM GSR swap.

racebum

if the thermostat is working correctly the engine is at the proper temperature most likely. what are you seeing for degrees on the scan tool? how are you sure it's running cool?

91_LS

In town the temp is where it should be at but as i get above 45mph,the temp drops to cold. The water is ok and dose get hot like it should but the temp just drops as soon as i go over 45. Ive replaced the TS and all but still the same. I know i have a high flow water pump but you think that might be why its doing this? Other then that,car run grate.

daochihung

the same thing that happens to 91 ls happens to me. My thermostat is brand new. I just replaced it and I bled the system but still around 45 and up the temp gauge just drops to cold.

racebum

have either of you guys verified that the gauge is even working correctly via a temp reading from the ecu? second if you have a cold temp reading at the ecu and the engine feels warm; you have a bad temperature sensor. warm the engine and scan the ecu then use a pyrometer on the coolant neck off the engine to see what temperature it actually is

91_LS

Ive done all this at the shop i got the swap at and when the temp dropped,the engine seemed cooler as well as the ECU. The temp sensor was replaced 4 times all with a new one and same thing went on. The fans run like they should and all. From what i understand is the JDM ECU runs cooler then the USDM one because Japan is more humid and hotter then the US.

racebum

no, they don't. the jdm and usdm ecus run the same. you NEED to use a pyrometer and get actual numbers. this i think it maybe kinda sorta is cool stuff isn't telling me jack. cooling systems are very very simple. if the fans run like they should chances are the temperature is correct and you simply have a faulty gauge. this is just a guess though, get actual numbers !

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Are these new OEM thermostats? I have seen parts stores thermostats be stuck open straight out of the box. Never ever had a problem with an OEM Honda thermostat.

Crash6066

lol have you guys thought maybe since its a bigger radiator its just doing to good of a job. it would make sense. aluminum does a good job at keeping things cold. especially at high speeds and cold days. thats my imo

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

IMHO the temperature of the coolant shouldn't be fluctuating like that between stopped idling vs. driving. The engine won't run as efficiently if the coolant is too cold. If the system is functioning properly it should keep the coolant temperature rock solid at all times in all conditions.

91_LS

No. I got OEM. I always get the best for my baby

racebum

then why are you waiting so long on getting actual numbers?

larger radiators have zero impact on anything when the thermostat is closed. when the thermostat opens, sure the temperature will come down and stay solid. the thermostat will close if the car drops under a certain temperature though. cooling systems are so simple it's almost annoying this thread is still going.

whenever the op gets actual numbers it goes like this

if the car is up to temp you have a faulty gauge or wiring

if the car is not up to temp you have an open thermostat or seal around it allowing water to get by. if you really screw up the coolant routing houses it may be possible to create a flowing system to part of the engine. this would be straight goob status though.

an engine without water will overheat in a matter of minutes

91_LS

Because its not bugging me and ill get to fixing it as soon as feel like doing so. But ill end up doing it,that's why i asked about what other things to look for.

kulo

this happened to me
thermostat was stuck open
just replaced it and bleed the coolant again

Hella_Reno

What are the chancesof this being a bad radiator cap?

daochihung

Thanks for the suggestions. I am swapping out the thermostat with the oem one. I thought that I should get one the runs colder at Advance auto parts since I live in Orlando, FL where it is hot. Lesson learned: Buy OEM.

lsvtecwill

it's possible you have the wrong water pump, The LS pump in a GSR will spin too fast cooling you engine at revs.

Alan Senhoreti

you cant use an ls water pump on a gsr no matter what.

thats just 100% stupid.

lsvtecwill

They are the EXACT same with different teeth the LS has 19 and the GSR has 22 so the GSR spins slower at the same engine speed (due to the GSR having a high red line).

Alan Senhoreti

well im sure we all know that b series is the same ****.

you CAN NOT RUN A KNOWN VTEC WATER PUMP ON A VTEC MOTOR.


his motor wouldve been fried by now, besides, oil pump and timing belt are different so im not sure if the car would be able to the timed right.

lsvtecwill

I don't want to be a dick but is it impossible? I'm just trying to help, as i work in a shop and have pulled off a ls water pump off of a gsr