EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Oh man... LOL. I suppose practice makes perfect....But I've never done a good job spraying wrinkle paint myself.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

finally got some good wrenching done on the car this weekend, not as much as i wanted but thats always how it goes. i cleaned up the fuel filter mount and installed the new fuel filter. then i completed the fuel line and brake line routing, finsihed bending my vent line and got that all buttoned up.









and then i started replacing heater hoses and other coolant hoses along with the tstat.

when i tried removing the heater hoses i bent the hell out of that tubing from the heater core (i assume thats what it was anyways). so i had to reshape those a bit. i hope i dont have an issue later. but, lots of new coolant hoses. a lot of them had 212K miles on them and i just didnt want to take a chance.



then i moved to the back of the block to attempt to install the ITR oil cooler. i followed the article on team integra, but i ran into a couple of head scratchers.

here is the old one off


here is the new one


what is the part number for the o rings on the ends? i couldnt find them in the parts breakdown anywhere.

also i read in the article to remove a bolt on the block to connect the other end of the oil cooler. is the rusted up bolt just to the upper right of the oil filter the correct one?



and if that is the correct one, is number 1 in this part diagram below what i need to make the connection? it looks like it is, just wanna verify before i finish up yet another order to acura lol



i think thats it for now, i attempted putting the subframe back in myself with a floor jack, but i think i'm going to need another set of hands with me to get everything lined up again, so that will have to wait until this weekend coming up.

if all goes well next weekend, the subframe goes back in and i will drop the transmission and start working on that and the motor. i'm sure that will have me placing at least one more order with delray acrua lol

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Alright, i got all the parts i need to order. BUT! i forgot to post up another question yesterday. Looking for some solid ideas on how to get these 2 froze up exhaust studs out of the head.

JDM-EJ698

I'm assuming you tried the 2 nuts trick right? spray it with some pb blaster tighten 2 nuts on the end of the stud and try removing it like that. You do run the chance that they will snap. I had that happen on a old motor.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

yup, tried the 2 nut method, but i'm going to try again with 2 nuts that have flanges on them. i think i was getting some slippage when i tried before.

JDM-EJ698

Yea that might help prevent slipping.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Soak that stud in pb blaster before you attempt to remove it from the head. Let it really get in there good and keep reapplying.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

good thing i've got a couple cans!

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Hehe. You could probably succeed with 2 oz. for both studs.

jayupark

Don't forget, sometimes ATF/Acetone(or Toluene) mix works even better than PB blaster (worked for me on my wifey's car).
Just incase your cans run dry

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

so here we are again, another Monday of updates lol.

i thoroughly soaked those exhaust studs with blaster. and here are the results!

Victory!



Strike one...



Strike 2, 3, and Defeat....


frustrating. i tried vice grips on there but they wont bite. i'm thinking i might weld a nut on the end of it at this point and see how that goes.

Guess which one is the brake line i made lol


then i spent a wholllle lot of time trying to re-install the subfame. had several issues with it not lining up right, catching on something, etc.. etc... after a couple hours of messing with it my wife came home and gave me a hand. all bolted back in and re-torqued. i THINK i got the steering shaft collar/connector installed correctly, but i'm not 100% sure. i can't remember how it looked when i took it apart. it looks a little bunched up, but maybe its normal. i'll snap a pic this week sometime.





no pics of the broken bolts i drilled out of the rear sub-frame area just because there is nothing exciting about that.

so after i installed the front subfame, i tried really REALLY hard to do the tie rods. these things are so rusted up they wont budge. i'm open to any suggestions for this. i soaked them in PB and got to open end wrenches lined up to break that nut loose, but they just keep slipping.



i'm really leaning towards just grabbing my sawzall and hacking the outers off, sliding that boot off, then using the tie rod tool to remove the inners.

i did a few other misc. things, nothing really worth noting. i'm waiting on my order from Delray to show up to finish the ITR oil cooler install. other than that, i'm going to try to remove a few thiings here and there on the transmission after work this week so i just have to drop it out come Friday night or saturday. then the "fun" stuff ensues lol.

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

I'd just cut the boots off and replace them along with both the inner and outer tie rods. Use OEM boots though, the aftermarket ones sold at most parts stores don't fit right and you'll spend hours trying to get them on there.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Get (or make) yourself a table of some sort to put under the tie rod end as a form of support. Re-soak the area where the tie rod end and adjusting nut meet. Grab your open end wrenches and set them up on the tie rod end. While holding one wrench steady, push the other wrench in the direction to loosen the tie rod end and use a hammer to strike the end of the wrench. It will take a few repeated hits to loosen that up, but it should work.

tamboo

my outer rod was jammed due to curb contact.
i got the clamp on tie rod tool, cut a notch in
the center front of the boot so i could push
it back over the end of the inner rod
and went to town with the clamp.
glued the notch after install and done.
no messing with the back of the boot.
White_EG1 has the clamp tool now,
he pledged to pay it fwd.

Natsu09

I soaked mine in PB and still wouldn't budge, then I said f it and grabbed a torch and heated it up for a minute and it came out.


Maybe replace both inner and outer?

jkrout

I'd try a torch before resorting to cutting things apart. I've had a lot of success, even with a basic propane torch, freeing rusted/frozen nuts and bolts that I thought would never come apart.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

oh i'm replacing both inner and outer. i cant get the stupid tool on the inner with the outer in the way though lol

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

hey updates! and of course, a weekend wrenching would not be complete with my new list of parts i need to order now lol....

I started off with working on the ITR oil cooler. I think i got the right bolt out, does this look right?


Then Saturday started getting stuff ready to drop the transmission. Took the starter off and yikes!


I got a good portion of the bolts out, dropped the lower torq mount, and removed the flywheel cover and that is where i finished up saturday night.

Oh, and i snapped a pic of the steering coupler reattached to the steering shaft and the rack. I cannot remember how this looked before i removed it. Does this look right?


Then today i got the tranny off. the harborfrieght transmission jack is awesome. i was able to easily drop this transmission all by my lonesome this afternoon.



i have absolutely no idea what the "material" is that you see in the transmission. it looks like wood shavings.



2 of the 3 transmission mount bolts are completely stripped out. so its time to order another time-sert kit. freaking expensive things, but i dont want to take a chance.

see ya old exedy stage 1!



and now i know why it was engaging weird when i drove it home after i bought it. there were a couple pieces like this hanging out under the pressure plate.



hola type r flywheel!



it looks like the pieces that were going rouge in the transmission made contact a few times. i hope i can get this resurfaced.



any guesses as to what the heck this stuff is? it seriously feels like wood shavings, or maybe a wasp's nest. weird. i'm at a loss...



also, i put a flanged nut onto that awful exhaust manifold stud. i tacked it on place, and i broke it off more.... ugh. so i tried again with some vice grips and nothing. nadda. i really dont wanna have to drill this thing out, because there is no room for a drill here. the radiator is and other items are right in the way. getting frustrated with that thing.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

If that stud is badly rusted in place, using a screw extractor or drilling it out might be your only options. Maybe you should tack on the flanged nut further on the stud and soak the threads with PB before attempting again? Or heat up the stud till its red hot? I dont think you would ruin any part of the head if you applied heat to the stud.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i'll have to give it a shot again, i will thoroughly soak the crap out of that stud. i dont get why that thing is being such a bitch to remove. all the other ones were easy lol

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

It would probably be easier with the nut threaded further down the stud. It looks like you're just snapping the ends off setting it up the way you've previously had.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

the edges were rounded because that was after my first attempt. the rear nut was rounded from me trying to loosen the stud, then the outer one got rounded because it locked to the rear one and it wouldnt come off either. it was a **** show lol

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Ha! Victory! I'm so stupid sometimes, i don't know why i didn't try this earlier. I'm pretty sure i mentioned this before, but i highly suggest everyone get a set of these if you have rounded rusted hardware to deal with like i have.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

LOL. Good work.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

I was going back through my pics last night and started looking at this one pic, tell me if i'm crazy. Could this, residue or whatever it is, be at least partially caused from a leak from this plug i have circled? i would assume it would be a coolant leak and not an oil leak, but i could be wrong

should i just remove this plug and put some sealant or whatever on the threads and re-torque it back in the block to spec?