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Sounds like you might be low on oil....That "stutter" you're experiencing sounds vtec related and not due to your exhaust setup. Park your car somewhere flat and check oil levels with the engine cold. For all we know, you might think 4qts of oil is all you needed when you did your oil change.
Regarding the VTEC solenoid, notice the 3 bolts on the top of the solenoid? When you remove them, there's another seal under there. Chances are, you're going to need to replace your solenoid gasket if you've unbolted the solenoid from the cylinder head to clean it. Otherwise, expect to have a new small oil leak coming from that area.
You need to clear your CEL, make sure you have your oil filled to the correct level, warm up your engine, and then go for a test drive. Dont be a genius and start trying to hit vtec a couple of minutes after you just started up your cold engine.
Ok Just a little update being that this thread is getting long I can't remember what everyone has said but I have tried all recommend approachs and I never said anything about buying a tuneable ecu to fix my issue so someone else must have becuase I know that's not how to fix something... Also no my mechanic did not stick me with a clogged cat... He took my cat off and made a straight pipe for me basically a test pipe there was no cat at all..... today I had my cat which is not clogged and I am positive of that reinstalled and it runs a tad better and the stutter is still there not as bad but still very noticeable.. so for those who said it wasn't exhaust problems you guys were correct... Also my oil is perfect on flat ground... So any ideas what to try next. again the stutter in vtec between 5000 and 6000 is most noticeable in 1st 2nd and 3rd while 4th is barely noticeable and 5th pretty much nothing at all... and when the IAB opens the stutter is gone or very close to it... it's just 5000 to 6000 range... any comments or ideas please hit me.... thanks again.... steve
Also my oil is perfect on flat ground... So any ideas what to try next. again the stutter in vtec between 5000 and 6000 is most noticeable in 1st 2nd and 3rd while 4th is barely noticeable and 5th pretty much nothing at all... and when the IAB opens the stutter is gone or very close to it... it's just 5000 to 6000 range... any comments or ideas please hit me.... thanks again.... steve
Since the last post, all you did was reinstall your catalytic converter?
Did you clear your CEL and reset your ECU?
If you correctly verified your oil is at capacity, then clean out the pressure switch by removing those 3 bolts on the top of the VTEC solenoid. Use parts cleaner and make sure the filter isn't clogged.
You are experiencing this stutter around the 5,000 rpm range due to the lack of oil pressure sensed at the switch. With the engine oil correctly filled to capacity, vtec engages @ 4400 rpm. In your case, the vtec pressure switch isn't sensing enough oil pressure to activate vtec until you get near 5000 rpm.
You either:
* Didn't correctly reset your ecu
* Checked your oil level incorrectly and need to add more
* Have a clogged vtec pressure switch/filter
* Have a wiring fault leading to the vtec pressure switch
* Suddenly had your pressure switch fail on you
* Have an oil pump thats on its way out
* Have a clog in the oil pickup line
Ok so I did reinstall my cat converter and reset my ecu... and yes the stutter in vtec does remain... my oil level is good at top dot I've checked numerous times also vtec still engages at 4400 like it is suppose to but starts to stutter at 5000 to 6000 and then is clears up some when IAB opens... i will however clean the pressure switch and vtec solenoid... now with the solenoid your saying to clean that small screen that sits between the gasket. Is that considered the filter... also your saying to clean the pressure switch it's self... there 14 bucks I'll buy a new one now and report back... thanks
The mesh screen is the filter. There's 2 of them in total. One where he solenoid meets the head and the other once you unbolt the three little bolts Near the pressure switch of the solenoid. Refer to my post #25 for picture.
Awsome thanks for that info... i will check it today when some of this snow melts we have almost a foot now... thanks again... I'm sure you all know how fustrating the process of elimination can be
No, it's just probably frustrating for you. Theres only a few things it could be. All could be diagnosed in under an hour with a few tools and a fsm.
A foot of snow has fallen in your area...And you're hunting a vtec issue, driving on slick roads, spinning the engine past 5k rpms, through all the gears....right.
Snow fell 2 days ago the roads are fine... what I'm saying is my driveway is still all wet and snow still in the way so I was going to let some melt before I go out and do anything.. also there's no reason to go through all gears the issue happens in 1st 2nd and 3rd so going over 40 mphs isn't needed. But again thanks for advice.
Snow fell 2 days ago the roads are fine... what I'm saying is my driveway is still all wet and snow still in the way so I was going to let some melt before I go out and do anything.. also there's no reason to go through all gears the issue happens in 1st 2nd and 3rd so going over 40 mphs isn't needed. But again thanks for advice.
Just a few posts back...
Originally Posted by AI95GSR
...So any ideas what to try next. again the stutter in vtec between 5000 and 6000 is most noticeable in 1st 2nd and 3rd while 4th is barely noticeable and 5th pretty much nothing at all... and when the IAB opens the stutter is gone or very close to it... it's just 5000 to 6000 range... any comments or ideas please hit me.... thanks again.... steve
Also, in order to hit vtec you need to pass 4400 rpm... that's well over 40mph in second and third gear. You apparently are going even further to the 6000 rpm range. Explain how you manage to experience the issues with your car going no faster than 40 mph?
Thanks for that service manual I'm going to look through that. As for the other dude asking how I can get into vtec before 40 mphs your answer is because in 1st gear when I get to 4400 to 5500 rpms I'm not going 40 and by 5500 rpms I Can feel if the stutter still exists or not therefore there's no need to keep ******* my car if I know there is a problem. Damn you know what I'm trying to say I've been descriptive as possible dude. Either help out or nit pick on someone else's thread about spinning in the snow and **** damn. Thanks to everyone who's helped me
Thanks for that service manual I'm going to look through that. As for the other dude asking how I can get into vtec before 40 mphs your answer is because in 1st gear when I get to 4400 to 5500 rpms I'm not going 40 and by 5500 rpms I Can feel if the stutter still exists or not therefore there's no need to keep ******* my car if I know there is a problem. Damn you know what I'm trying to say I've been descriptive as possible dude. Either help out or nit pick on someone else's thread about spinning in the snow and **** damn. Thanks to everyone who's helped me
Read through this thread. I've offered my share of help. You can choose to get your feelings hurt over my questions and comments. I'm not trying to be offensive in any way. I'm just trying to make sense of what you're saying. Why is it my fault you keep contradicting previous statements?
Just a small update I put new Ngk Iridium plugs in and it had made my stutter slightly better I believe, but again it's still there. Very agitating.. So I ordered a new Cap and rotor and new plug wires just to be able to rule it out. Any other suggestions... Thanks... Steve..
You seem adamant that your stutter issue is something other than a VTEC related problem. You're changing parts out before determining their condition or diagnosing the problem. The majority of posts in this thread are suggesting the issue is related to vtec and oil flow. Consider opening that link to the fsm and flip through the section regarding the vtec system operation and troubleshooting.
02-18-2015, 10:24 AM
Re: catalytic converter that important...
