n0 iNTegRiTY

Alright, so I'm changing the rear brake pads on my Teg, when a couple problems come up. I got the pads off fine... and after I discover that my rear right rotor is warped, I begin clamping down on the piston trying to compress it, but it doesn't seem to budge. So how exactly can I get these things to compress? I know it shouldn't be thios hard to change some brake pads, and I feel pretty pathetic, so please help me out
Here's a couple pics to show the condition they're in (sorry for crappy quality)


Any suggestions?

ragejed

Use a BIG flat head screwdriver, or pry bar, and turn it.

db8sirg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team-Integra.Net &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


If you are using this article to do the rear brakes, this is how you push the piston back in, insert a BIG flathead or something similar and turn clockwise to get the piston back in

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Erik_Pb_Foot

if worst comes to worst you can loosen the bleeder screw and therefore relieve the pressure holding the piston and you would be able to easily compress the piston.

be pressing on the piston as hard as you can when you break the bleeder valve free.... open it just as little as possible and tighten it as quick as possible... you don't want to loosen it, press, quit pressing, and then tighten it as you will allow more air in by taking your time... BE QUICK!

however, use that as a last resort since you will most likely want to bleed the brakes after doing that since the likelyhood of you sucking up some air is quite high.

n0 iNTegRiTY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by db8sirg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[/QUOTE]
All I'm getting is a red X

[QUOTE=ragejed]Use a BIG flat head screwdriver, or pry bar, and turn it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean just as, or keep it compressed while turning it somehow?


Modified by n0 iNTegRiTY at 6:05 PM 1/27/2004

n0 iNTegRiTY

My bad, f*cked up this post....
but I guess I'll try the bleeding thing. thanks.

Medek

i had the same problem the first time i ever changed my rear pads..
You need to release the brake fluid in order to get that sucker down..
now forgive me if my description is vague when i describe where the fluid release is.... imagine the caliper sitting in it's normal position, on the backside torwards the top there is a nut with a redish/oranish rubber tab covering a small tube centered in the nut.. basically a covered end-tude with a nut tightened around it..
....remove that rubber end-piece and get the appropriate wrench to loosen that nut.. then take a C-Clamp and clamp down the caliper piston.. (BRAKE FLUID WILL GUSH SLIGHTLY FROM THE TUBING) tighten the nut back up and slide in your pads.. (make sure you have removed the two bolts that hold the caliper on..so you can access both sides of the brake pad) so at this point the caliper is floating or dangling whatever.. remove the c-clamp, slide in your new pads, dont get brake fluid on them.. and remount the calipers... almost finsihed but not yet.. there's always the possibility of air getting into the brake lines.. so you have to pump them.. get a friend and have him count 1,2,3 and on the third series have him push the brake pedal slow/medium pace.. as soon as your friends pushing release that brake line nut and let the fluid pump out ever so slightly,(makes a stream).. when you think the pedal is at halfway or a hair less, close that nut... the idea is too close it mid stream so air isnt sucked back into the tube, while at the same time keeping the pedal from hitting the floor so you have good pedal distance when braking.

Erik_Pb_Foot

one thing that never hurts... put some silicone brake greasebetween the caliper and the pad.... i think it's silicone... at advance auto or autozone you can get a lil packet for like $1 that will be plenty for two wheels

Silver-Teg

The rear caliper pistons screw back into place. DO NOT USE A C CLAMP TO FORCE IT BACK. As said above use a large screwdriver or breaker bar to turn it back in. The rears dont work like the front.

n0 iNTegRiTY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Medek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem the first time i ever changed my rear pads..
You need to release the brake fluid in order to get that sucker down..
now forgive me if my description is vague when i describe where the fluid release is.... imagine the caliper sitting in it's normal position, on the backside torwards the top there is a nut with a redish/oranish rubber tab covering a small tube centered in the nut.. basically a covered end-tude with a nut tightened around it..
....remove that rubber end-piece and get the appropriate wrench to loosen that nut.. then take a C-Clamp and clamp down the caliper piston.. (BRAKE FLUID WILL GUSH SLIGHTLY FROM THE TUBING) tighten the nut back up and slide in your pads.. (make sure you have removed the two bolts that hold the caliper on..so you can access both sides of the brake pad) so at this point the caliper is floating or dangling whatever.. remove the c-clamp, slide in your new pads, dont get brake fluid on them.. and remount the calipers... almost finsihed but not yet.. there's always the possibility of air getting into the brake lines.. so you have to pump them.. get a friend and have him count 1,2,3 and on the third series have him push the brake pedal slow/medium pace.. as soon as your friends pushing release that brake line nut and let the fluid pump out ever so slightly,(makes a stream).. when you think the pedal is at halfway or a hair less, close that nut... the idea is too close it mid stream so air isnt sucked back into the tube, while at the same time keeping the pedal from hitting the floor so you have good pedal distance when braking.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks a lot for the in-depth. I'll try that in a bit

DA Teg D00D

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rear caliper pistons screw back into place. DO NOT USE A C CLAMP TO FORCE IT BACK. As said above use a large screwdriver or breaker bar to turn it back in. The rears dont work like the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is all you need to do, very simple and not harmful at all. they also sell lil "sockets" if you will that go on the end of ratchets at any automotive place to screw in the pistons. simple, now do it

djay86

c-clamps for the front only..

i used a big spackling knife to turn the pistons in the back when i did my brakes.

Erik_Pb_Foot

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rear caliper pistons screw back into place. DO NOT USE A C CLAMP TO FORCE IT BACK. As said above use a large screwdriver or breaker bar to turn it back in. The rears dont work like the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow.... interesting....

Silver-Teg

Ef Whore

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djay86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">c-clamps for the front only..

i used a big spackling knife to turn the pistons in the back when i did my brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's funny I've used a spackling knife before also.

billybong91DA

The Pistons screw in only!! you can bust lines or wind up with big braking problems if you dont screw them in, just take ur reservoir cap off and scre it back in. if any of you guys work with rear brakes alot, you can buy a rear brake service kit from MAC tools, or Snap-on for about 75-80 bucks. i got mine from mac, it fits any rear brakes.

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE!!!! any rear disc brakes screw back in, they do not compress like regular front discs!!

R.S.

yea all i did when i compressed my rear brake pistons was take off the brake fluid reserver cap, then use a big *** screw driver and screw it to compress the piston, and i lined it up w/ that thing on the brake pad.

95integraLS

yes, take of your reservoir cap off and screw the piston in with a big flathead. good luck.

n0 iNTegRiTY

well, I got them on and everything is runnin again
Thanks for the help
There's nothin like struggling on a simple project to make you feel like a retard

DA Teg D00D

it's ok, i know i've done it b4, i'm sure most of us have