v-tec maz

ok i picked up a 90 DA up last week, the car is amazingly clean the paint is so fresh that i cant belive its 15 years old. i got from an old guywhich said he stored it for a while. interior and everything is near perfect.
when i got the car the ABS light was on which i dont really give a **** about( i hate ABS) so i obviosly have no abs. today i was driving back from newrochelle and right after i got out of the highway i try to brake so my ******* brake goes all the way to the bottom. i couldnt belive it, it worked well but it went all the way to the end. it was like that for like 10 mins. then it got back to perfect. so i get home thinking that my master cylander is fucked. i open the hood do a lil test everything is fine. so i open the wheels to check the oil lines. front brakes are new (rotors and everything) then i get to the left rear wheel i open the wheel, BAM there is ******* so much rust in the rotors i cant belive it. the **** doesnt even turn( so much rust) so i turn it by hand a couple of times then i go for a lil ride. it started moving so it makes a noise now. but that brake doesnt work at all. i was really pissed till i opened the other rear wheel. same situation but the other one works decent( not how it is supposed to) so im like ****. now i dont know WTF to do. i was gona order my turbo and wheels but now i have to spend my money on ******* brakes.
my question from you guys is, what cause this problem? 2-what can i do to fix it(change the whole brake, or get it machined?)
3 how much is it gonna cost me?
thanks for your help, and please forgive me for my bad english. i tried to be as good as possible . plz leave me your solutions. and make sure you read the whole thin.
maz

omiehomie

okeedokey....

first off are there disc or drums in the rear of the car.
second whatever the case maybe disc or drum any napa or auto parts store will re surface your rotors for like 20$ (you would be better off replacing it).

basically your looking at new pads and new rotors (depending on what you want)
you can go with some cheap pads and rotors to get that bitch back and running. (60$)

or you can go all out and since your going to be running a forced induction setup i would recommend Cobalt pads and maybe some brembo rotors.

from what i have heard and i think many other people can vouch for is the quality of the cobalt pads.

here is there website. http://www.cobaltfriction.com

and i think the brembo rotors you can get from http://www.tirerack.com

hope this help guy

EG-SI(rII)

Just a suggestion: try a dremmel with a fiberglass buffer pad, apply even force directly on the rotor as you turn it by hand, then clear the remaining dust with brake cleaner. Worked for me, but then again, i had relatively new rotors with about 6 months (sitting the driveway) rust buildup.
^ It's a cheaper alternative, but you should probably just buy new rotors, you can find them for about as much as average machining cost, and then shipping. It's worth it though.

v-tec maz

thanks alot guys. im gonna have to figure out what im gonna do. but the other things is the presure on my master cylander, like i said it dropped to nothing one time. the brake worked but the pedal went all the way down. i checked the oil and everything is fin. and it works perfect now. k leave some ideas for me before i start doing **** that is gonna cost me more.(more money for brakes= the later i get the turbo)

v-tec maz

bump

Naruto

I'm not sure how the proportioning valve ( should be one isn't there?? ) is set up on a DA, but I'm thinking since your front calipers are larger than your rears...most of your braking should be in the front of your car. The ebrake cable mainly operates the rear calipers if I'm not mistaken. So I don't think it would have anything or TOO much to do with the rears as it would the front ( someone please correct me if I am wrong ) in terms of stopping. Also the rotors do play a significant part in stopping, but it helps to have a properly functioning caliper too Usually when the brake pedal goes all the way down like that, it could mean that there may be air in the system. I'd go bleed the brakes again to make sure. And also, check the calipers, the pistons on the calipers, etc etc to make sure nothing is "frozen" or stuck so as to make sure all of them are functioning properly. That may save you from replacing the wrong parts and then spending more money than needed. But then again...it couldn't hurt to replace the rotors either.


*edit*....you mentioned the ABS light on....I'd also try to see if a code can be pulled. If nothing else, you may have to get rid of the entire ABS system since you don't care for it. That....alone could be a potential cause as to why your brakes are failing. Then again...perhaps not, but it doesn't hurt to check.