Best Suspension Setup
10-16-2007, 03:59 PM
#1
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Best Suspension Setup
What is the best suspension setup for 99 Integra?
1. The best that money can buy.
2. A setup that on a decent budget ($1000-$2000)
This includes coilovers (makes and models), strut bars (makes and models).
I have a 99 GSR and I am looking to invest in a new setup.
Thanks.
1. The best that money can buy.
2. A setup that on a decent budget ($1000-$2000)
This includes coilovers (makes and models), strut bars (makes and models).
I have a 99 GSR and I am looking to invest in a new setup.
Thanks.
10-16-2007, 04:35 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Best Suspension Setup (BinMop)
there is no best setup, that would depend on what you were going to do with the car. If you want to drag race/road race/daily drive. Or if you are just looking for an all around little better than stock set up. And there is no best, each car is different and suspension tuning takes time.
10-16-2007, 04:40 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (20ls01)
eliminating body roll isn't always a good thing, espcially for a newer driver. If you don't know how the car will react, eliminating body roll will cause you to crash eaiser. Some body roll is nice for weight transition
10-16-2007, 05:13 PM
#5
Re: Best Suspension Setup (SleeperGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleeperGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is no best setup, that would depend on what you were going to do with the car. If you want to drag race/road race/daily drive. Or if you are just looking for an all around little better than stock set up. And there is no best, each car is different and suspension tuning takes time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, BEST is a very relative term. What may be the best setup for me may not be the best for you; again, it depends on what you are planning on doing.
Agreed, BEST is a very relative term. What may be the best setup for me may not be the best for you; again, it depends on what you are planning on doing.
10-16-2007, 05:20 PM
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Re: Best Suspension Setup (SleeperGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BinMop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gc/koni yellows
/tread</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the money to spend..
Tein SS Coilovers
Omni Coilovers
D2 Full Coilovers
Skunk2 Pro Cs
Progress Full Coils
Remember to upgrade your sway bars
Good tires are a must
/tread</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have the money to spend..
Tein SS Coilovers
Omni Coilovers
D2 Full Coilovers
Skunk2 Pro Cs
Progress Full Coils
Remember to upgrade your sway bars
Good tires are a must
10-16-2007, 05:54 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Best Suspension Setup (samace_sg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by samace_sg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Remember to upgrade your sway bars
Good tires are a must</TD></TR></TABLE>
again you really don't want to touch the front. A fwd car by nature has a tremendous amount of understeer. When upgrading a suspension for performance you will want to try to induce as much oversteer as possible. upgrading a front sway bar will only increase the understeer and should only be used in serious full blown race applications. All you will get is wheel hop by adding this. Suspension tuning is all about adjusting the ballance of the car, you want to be able to feel what is going on. For a fisrt suspension or introduction to HPDE you don't want it to be super stiff, you will have no idea how to drive it. Yes you will be able to go fast in corners and it will feel like it's on rails, but you could drive the car faster as a novice if the car had a little give to it. use the search button. and if you are serious about your suspension and you arn't just trying to roll around with you body kit scraping the ground look in the road racing fourm they really know how to tune suspensions. and search!
Remember to upgrade your sway bars
Good tires are a must</TD></TR></TABLE>
again you really don't want to touch the front. A fwd car by nature has a tremendous amount of understeer. When upgrading a suspension for performance you will want to try to induce as much oversteer as possible. upgrading a front sway bar will only increase the understeer and should only be used in serious full blown race applications. All you will get is wheel hop by adding this. Suspension tuning is all about adjusting the ballance of the car, you want to be able to feel what is going on. For a fisrt suspension or introduction to HPDE you don't want it to be super stiff, you will have no idea how to drive it. Yes you will be able to go fast in corners and it will feel like it's on rails, but you could drive the car faster as a novice if the car had a little give to it. use the search button. and if you are serious about your suspension and you arn't just trying to roll around with you body kit scraping the ground look in the road racing fourm they really know how to tune suspensions. and search!
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10-17-2007, 03:24 PM
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Re: Best Suspension Setup (SleeperGSR)
I want an aggressive drop with stiff spring rates. Do you think Tein Super Streets are a good investment?
Want about HKS full coilovers?
Want about HKS full coilovers?
10-17-2007, 05:31 PM
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Re: Best Suspension Setup (GuCCi_GSR)
The best setup would be OEM ITR springs on Koni Yellows, With minor washer trick in the rear and leave the front with a lil negative camber.
Car will ******* outhandle most setups.
Ive owned 2 integras and from GC to koni to KYB, TEIN to H&R
the fastest setup was ITR springs with 1 washer in the back.
I must warn you though ITR springs will cause oversteer under snap left right steering input.
IE i could literally drift my integra by entering a corner very fast and jerking into the corner the *** end would oversteer and I would have to correct to negotiate the corner.
Coil overs are good but if its a DD go with ITR springs.
OEM > All
Maybe a subframe brace and some Poly Suspension bushings. I would not say ITR rear sways as with the stock gsr rear sways the car oversteers.
When you get really good maybe but just get ITR drop and call it good.
Oh here is a pic of the ITR setup I ran.
PS no camber kit on the front, A lil neg camber is good.
Modified by dc4g at 10:47 PM 10/17/2007
Car will ******* outhandle most setups.
Ive owned 2 integras and from GC to koni to KYB, TEIN to H&R
the fastest setup was ITR springs with 1 washer in the back.
I must warn you though ITR springs will cause oversteer under snap left right steering input.
IE i could literally drift my integra by entering a corner very fast and jerking into the corner the *** end would oversteer and I would have to correct to negotiate the corner.
Coil overs are good but if its a DD go with ITR springs.
OEM > All
Maybe a subframe brace and some Poly Suspension bushings. I would not say ITR rear sways as with the stock gsr rear sways the car oversteers.
When you get really good maybe but just get ITR drop and call it good.
Oh here is a pic of the ITR setup I ran.
PS no camber kit on the front, A lil neg camber is good.
Modified by dc4g at 10:47 PM 10/17/2007
10-17-2007, 08:24 PM
#12
Junior Member
not trying to knock dc4g but thats not really a full setup... that more like a slight upgrade from stock.... or your just not going fast enough...
and like everybody says it depends on what you want to do with it... and how much your willing to spend...
mine is street driven with the occasional track event...
so the best set up for me is:
Full set of polyurethane bushings
Tein SS full coilovers
front traction bars
ITR front sway bar
Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar
ASR subframe brace
Skunk2 front camber
Skunk2 rear control arms
shimmed rear
Nuespeed front bar
roll bar in the rear
and the most important one of all a good custom alignment...
and even all this wouldnt mean **** without some decent WHEELS AND TIRES...
and like everybody says it depends on what you want to do with it... and how much your willing to spend...
mine is street driven with the occasional track event...
so the best set up for me is:
Full set of polyurethane bushings
Tein SS full coilovers
front traction bars
ITR front sway bar
Whiteline 24mm rear sway bar
ASR subframe brace
Skunk2 front camber
Skunk2 rear control arms
shimmed rear
Nuespeed front bar
roll bar in the rear
and the most important one of all a good custom alignment...
and even all this wouldnt mean **** without some decent WHEELS AND TIRES...
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10-17-2007, 10:09 PM
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Best Suspension Setup (dc4g)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best setup would be OEM ITR springs on Koni Yellows, With minor washer trick in the rear and leave the front with a lil negative camber.
Car will ******* outhandle most setups.
Ive owned 2 integras and from GC to koni to KYB, TEIN to H&R
the fastest setup was ITR springs with 1 washer in the back.
I must warn you though ITR springs will cause oversteer under snap left right steering input.
IE i could literally drift my integra by entering a corner very fast and jerking into the corner the *** end would oversteer and I would have to correct to negotiate the corner.
Coil overs are good but if its a DD go with ITR springs.
OEM > All
Maybe a subframe brace and some Poly Suspension bushings. I would not say ITR rear sways as with the stock gsr rear sways the car oversteers.
When you get really good maybe but just get ITR drop and call it good.
Oh here is a pic of the ITR setup I ran.
PS no camber kit on the front, A lil neg camber is good.
Modified by dc4g at 10:47 PM 10/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry but any car can snap oversteer, yes even a stock gsr.
itr rear sway bar is, hands down, the best bang for buck suspension mod for integras.
get some good adjustable shocks and custom spring rate coilovers and most importantly, good tires!
then you got yourself a great handling car.
Car will ******* outhandle most setups.
Ive owned 2 integras and from GC to koni to KYB, TEIN to H&R
the fastest setup was ITR springs with 1 washer in the back.
I must warn you though ITR springs will cause oversteer under snap left right steering input.
IE i could literally drift my integra by entering a corner very fast and jerking into the corner the *** end would oversteer and I would have to correct to negotiate the corner.
Coil overs are good but if its a DD go with ITR springs.
OEM > All
Maybe a subframe brace and some Poly Suspension bushings. I would not say ITR rear sways as with the stock gsr rear sways the car oversteers.
When you get really good maybe but just get ITR drop and call it good.
Oh here is a pic of the ITR setup I ran.
PS no camber kit on the front, A lil neg camber is good.
Modified by dc4g at 10:47 PM 10/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry but any car can snap oversteer, yes even a stock gsr.
itr rear sway bar is, hands down, the best bang for buck suspension mod for integras.
get some good adjustable shocks and custom spring rate coilovers and most importantly, good tires!
then you got yourself a great handling car.
10-18-2007, 03:40 PM
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Re: Best Suspension Setup (GuCCi_GSR)
I'm looking to step up the swaybars/tiebars from stock. Which manufacturers can I check out to get front upper/front lower and rear upper/rear lower combination that will work well.
Looking to keep them all the same manufacturer.
Looking to keep them all the same manufacturer.
10-18-2007, 03:54 PM
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Re: Best Suspension Setup (alexisthemovie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alexisthemovie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sorry but any car can snap oversteer, yes even a stock gsr.
itr rear sway bar is, hands down, the best bang for buck suspension mod for integras.
get some good adjustable shocks and custom spring rate coilovers and most importantly, good tires!
then you got yourself a great handling car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats real smart... NOT
how many guys have wrecked their tegs from not knowing how to control the oversteer, which with the ITR bar comes very fast and unexpected.
If you just lift throttle it will oversteer
Guys wreck all the time.
Its just not needed.
Trust me spend your money on tires a slight drop with good springrates and get the swaybar last.
ITR's Were track cars remember.
NO AC no sunroof.
Wet roads plus itr bar = crash
I mean I personally can drive fast as hell with one but they are not good for some noob. (no offense inteded) who is on HT asking for the best suspension setup.
Recommend some good tires a sublte drop for the kid so we dont read his obituary later.
MMMKKK??
Best setup hands down though is the KW suspension variant 3 coilovers MSRP 1750 running Billet camber kits from acr POLY bushings Password 3 point strut bar
16" wheels running 45 Series 215's Maybe Kumho or Toyo
Plus dont forget ASR Subframe and Hold off on the ITR till your good @ dealing with oversteer.
And stitch weld the chassis while your @ it
Here is a little about the variant 3's
variant 3 race technology for the road with adjustable compression and rebound damping
The new Variant 3 is state-of-the-art technology for the skilled and experienced driver. The separate and independent compression and rebound damping options allow a truly individual driving set-up. These unique systems with the 3 individually adjustable components, allows for adjustment of the compression of the damper in the low-speed range, while the highspeed set-up, so decisive for driving comfort, has been preset by our engineers
Modified by dc4g at 5:04 PM 10/18/2007
sorry but any car can snap oversteer, yes even a stock gsr.
itr rear sway bar is, hands down, the best bang for buck suspension mod for integras.
get some good adjustable shocks and custom spring rate coilovers and most importantly, good tires!
then you got yourself a great handling car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats real smart... NOT
how many guys have wrecked their tegs from not knowing how to control the oversteer, which with the ITR bar comes very fast and unexpected.
If you just lift throttle it will oversteer
Guys wreck all the time.
Its just not needed.
Trust me spend your money on tires a slight drop with good springrates and get the swaybar last.
ITR's Were track cars remember.
NO AC no sunroof.
Wet roads plus itr bar = crash
I mean I personally can drive fast as hell with one but they are not good for some noob. (no offense inteded) who is on HT asking for the best suspension setup.
Recommend some good tires a sublte drop for the kid so we dont read his obituary later.
MMMKKK??
Best setup hands down though is the KW suspension variant 3 coilovers MSRP 1750 running Billet camber kits from acr POLY bushings Password 3 point strut bar
16" wheels running 45 Series 215's Maybe Kumho or Toyo
Plus dont forget ASR Subframe and Hold off on the ITR till your good @ dealing with oversteer.
And stitch weld the chassis while your @ it
Here is a little about the variant 3's
variant 3 race technology for the road with adjustable compression and rebound damping
The new Variant 3 is state-of-the-art technology for the skilled and experienced driver. The separate and independent compression and rebound damping options allow a truly individual driving set-up. These unique systems with the 3 individually adjustable components, allows for adjustment of the compression of the damper in the low-speed range, while the highspeed set-up, so decisive for driving comfort, has been preset by our engineers
Modified by dc4g at 5:04 PM 10/18/2007
10-19-2007, 01:00 AM
#16
Junior Member
KW Variant 3s are deffinately nice... i have those on my s2k... i think its a little much for a street car as far as cost.... deffinatly good though...
ITR rear bar is good for a street vehicle but once you get used to it for a while or start racing it wont seem enough i had the ITR for about a year and just 2 months ago i upgraded to the whiteline 24mm....
as far as sway bars and oversteer who are you to tell the "NOOB" what he cant or can handle..... you never know he might not know **** about whats a good suspension set up but that doesnt make him a shitty driver.....
because only shitty drivers would lack the comon sense to relearn the way the car handles... and if they wrecked theyre integra on the streets they were probably doing something WAYYY stupid because a stock integra can already handle taking curves at least 15-20mph over the rated speed....
every suspension mod you do requires you to relearn the way a car handles.... wether you do it peice by peice or full setup all at once....
I am 20 years old own an integra with said set-up above... and an s2000... and i consider my self a noob only cause i lack years of experience.... but that has NOTHING to do with what i should do to my car.... if you think your stock gsr has snap oversteer try driving an s2000 with variant 3s set on the firm side... try powering through a curve and hitting your powerband.... then talk to me about snap oversteer....
integras are front wheel drive and have a front weight distribution.... that rear end is just following the front going along for the ride... anything you can do to get closer to a balanced car is a great upgrade wether its adding sways bars to get some weight transfer to the rear or you actually move physical weight to the rear.... in the end the real goal is a balanced car... and that will vary to each persons driving styles and preferences...
and also the only way to KNOW how to control oversteer is to experience it..... its up to the driver to do it safely or not....
just my 20 cents input....
ITR rear bar is good for a street vehicle but once you get used to it for a while or start racing it wont seem enough i had the ITR for about a year and just 2 months ago i upgraded to the whiteline 24mm....
as far as sway bars and oversteer who are you to tell the "NOOB" what he cant or can handle..... you never know he might not know **** about whats a good suspension set up but that doesnt make him a shitty driver.....
because only shitty drivers would lack the comon sense to relearn the way the car handles... and if they wrecked theyre integra on the streets they were probably doing something WAYYY stupid because a stock integra can already handle taking curves at least 15-20mph over the rated speed....
every suspension mod you do requires you to relearn the way a car handles.... wether you do it peice by peice or full setup all at once....
I am 20 years old own an integra with said set-up above... and an s2000... and i consider my self a noob only cause i lack years of experience.... but that has NOTHING to do with what i should do to my car.... if you think your stock gsr has snap oversteer try driving an s2000 with variant 3s set on the firm side... try powering through a curve and hitting your powerband.... then talk to me about snap oversteer....
integras are front wheel drive and have a front weight distribution.... that rear end is just following the front going along for the ride... anything you can do to get closer to a balanced car is a great upgrade wether its adding sways bars to get some weight transfer to the rear or you actually move physical weight to the rear.... in the end the real goal is a balanced car... and that will vary to each persons driving styles and preferences...
and also the only way to KNOW how to control oversteer is to experience it..... its up to the driver to do it safely or not....
just my 20 cents input....
10-19-2007, 01:31 AM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Best Suspension Setup (dc4g)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats real smart... NOT
how many guys have wrecked their tegs from not knowing how to control the oversteer, which with the ITR bar comes very fast and unexpected.
If you just lift throttle it will oversteer
Guys wreck all the time.
Its just not needed.
Trust me spend your money on tires a slight drop with good springrates and get the swaybar last.
ITR's Were track cars remember.
NO AC no sunroof.
Wet roads plus itr bar = crash
I mean I personally can drive fast as hell with one but they are not good for some noob. (no offense inteded) who is on HT asking for the best suspension setup.
Recommend some good tires a sublte drop for the kid so we dont read his obituary later.
MMMKKK??
Best setup hands down though is the KW suspension variant 3 coilovers MSRP 1750 running Billet camber kits from acr POLY bushings Password 3 point strut bar
16" wheels running 45 Series 215's Maybe Kumho or Toyo
Plus dont forget ASR Subframe and Hold off on the ITR till your good @ dealing with oversteer.
And stitch weld the chassis while your @ it
Here is a little about the variant 3's
variant 3 race technology for the road with adjustable compression and rebound damping
The new Variant 3 is state-of-the-art technology for the skilled and experienced driver. The separate and independent compression and rebound damping options allow a truly individual driving set-up. These unique systems with the 3 individually adjustable components, allows for adjustment of the compression of the damper in the low-speed range, while the highspeed set-up, so decisive for driving comfort, has been preset by our engineers
Modified by dc4g at 5:04 PM 10/18/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
you dish out advice like you have no idea what you are talking about, whatsoever.
even a stock itr is not an "oversteering" car per se. It's very neutral and adding the bar to a gsr helps counter some of the understeer.
I have never heard of anyone wrecking solely because of the addition of an itr rear sway bar. If you understand how rotation works, then you'd know that any stock fwd car can rotate easily. Just transfer the weight to the front with lift-off or brake application. I still need to do this quite a bit with my current setup. (tokico/gc with itr rsb).
Imo, the 22mm bar is still not thick enough.
You also don't need to say "trust me" because I actually know what i'm talking about.
Look how smart you are!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2128371
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote, originally posted by dc4g »
So In april of this year I got into a highspeed with the cops in my 99 GSR on ITR suspension & Kumho ecsta. Ended up making it about 60 miles and an hour long. Got away from all the cars and got spotted by a sheriff search plance who started tracking me as I was parking.
During the chase I was clocked @ 125 MPH, a police crown vic Crashed Trying to follow me through the twisties, He lost control and hit the guardrail then slid into and oncomming vehicle.
no-one was hurt during the pursuit but I still did 4 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats real smart... NOT
how many guys have wrecked their tegs from not knowing how to control the oversteer, which with the ITR bar comes very fast and unexpected.
If you just lift throttle it will oversteer
Guys wreck all the time.
Its just not needed.
Trust me spend your money on tires a slight drop with good springrates and get the swaybar last.
ITR's Were track cars remember.
NO AC no sunroof.
Wet roads plus itr bar = crash
I mean I personally can drive fast as hell with one but they are not good for some noob. (no offense inteded) who is on HT asking for the best suspension setup.
Recommend some good tires a sublte drop for the kid so we dont read his obituary later.
MMMKKK??
Best setup hands down though is the KW suspension variant 3 coilovers MSRP 1750 running Billet camber kits from acr POLY bushings Password 3 point strut bar
16" wheels running 45 Series 215's Maybe Kumho or Toyo
Plus dont forget ASR Subframe and Hold off on the ITR till your good @ dealing with oversteer.
And stitch weld the chassis while your @ it
Here is a little about the variant 3's
variant 3 race technology for the road with adjustable compression and rebound damping
The new Variant 3 is state-of-the-art technology for the skilled and experienced driver. The separate and independent compression and rebound damping options allow a truly individual driving set-up. These unique systems with the 3 individually adjustable components, allows for adjustment of the compression of the damper in the low-speed range, while the highspeed set-up, so decisive for driving comfort, has been preset by our engineers
Modified by dc4g at 5:04 PM 10/18/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
you dish out advice like you have no idea what you are talking about, whatsoever.
even a stock itr is not an "oversteering" car per se. It's very neutral and adding the bar to a gsr helps counter some of the understeer.
I have never heard of anyone wrecking solely because of the addition of an itr rear sway bar. If you understand how rotation works, then you'd know that any stock fwd car can rotate easily. Just transfer the weight to the front with lift-off or brake application. I still need to do this quite a bit with my current setup. (tokico/gc with itr rsb).
Imo, the 22mm bar is still not thick enough.
You also don't need to say "trust me" because I actually know what i'm talking about.
Look how smart you are!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2128371
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc4g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote, originally posted by dc4g »
So In april of this year I got into a highspeed with the cops in my 99 GSR on ITR suspension & Kumho ecsta. Ended up making it about 60 miles and an hour long. Got away from all the cars and got spotted by a sheriff search plance who started tracking me as I was parking.
During the chase I was clocked @ 125 MPH, a police crown vic Crashed Trying to follow me through the twisties, He lost control and hit the guardrail then slid into and oncomming vehicle.
no-one was hurt during the pursuit but I still did 4 months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
10-19-2007, 02:38 AM
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Re: (toofast4u752)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toofast4u752 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because only shitty drivers would lack the comon sense to relearn the way the car handles... and if they wrecked theyre integra on the streets they were probably doing something WAYYY stupid because a stock integra can already handle taking curves at least 15-20mph over the rated speed.... </TD></TR></TABLE>even a stock DA (well, aside from some decent summer tires on fat fives and some GR-2s to replace the worn-out stock struts) can handle turns at over double the recommended speed without a problem... 250% of the posted speed is where I have to start concentrating decently, but I don't slow down from 65 for 30mph turns.
10-19-2007, 03:59 AM
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Re: (Junkie)
what kind of driving do you do?
do you visit the track frequently?
or do you just want a new drop for showing off your ride?
just wondering........
I have this on my ride koni yellows, neuspeed sports, skunk front camber kit, itr rear sway, stock front tower & 3 to 4 visits to the track a year.........
do you visit the track frequently?
or do you just want a new drop for showing off your ride?
just wondering........
I have this on my ride koni yellows, neuspeed sports, skunk front camber kit, itr rear sway, stock front tower & 3 to 4 visits to the track a year.........
10-19-2007, 01:39 PM
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Re: (denieone)
setup is mainly for the street because I never visit the track. but i don't mind spending some coin on a good setup.
so it sounds like:
TEIN Super Street Coilovers
Skunk2 Front Camber kit
Skunk2 Rear Lower Control Arms
but no one has really mentioned any strutbars or tiebars....
so it sounds like:
TEIN Super Street Coilovers
Skunk2 Front Camber kit
Skunk2 Rear Lower Control Arms
but no one has really mentioned any strutbars or tiebars....
10-19-2007, 06:59 PM
#22
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Re: Best Suspension Setup (GuCCi_GSR)
Here is my setup (you'll have to read a bit) as was posted in another thread:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tornadom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My GS-R will out accelerate, out brake, and out handle a stock Type-R
I have a 1994 GS-R sedan with the chassis stitch welded aft the rear seats, a Speedtech 22mm rear sway bar and chassis tie bar, Password JDM 2 point rear strut bar and their 3 point front strut bar. The suspension is a simple, yet effective setup consisting of spss3 valved (race valved) Koni shocks, Ground-control coil-overs with a custom spring rates (that shall remain unspecified due to me being selfish about its awesomeness), Ground-control extended top-hats, J's racing roll center adjusters up front and Silk-Road inner fender braces up front (a temporary mod until I can seam and stitch weld the front end). Combined with a good alignment (slight toe-out up front, and 0 toe in the rear) and camber settings, the car maintains a very neutral handling balance under neutral throttle... lift the throttle to rotate the car, or apply the throttle to straighten the car.
The part that will make the greatest difference in handling, braking and accelerating is going to be your tires and driving skill. I have auto-x'd for 4 years in this car on everything from a bone stock car, to its current incarnation on Hoosier's, and have about 100,000 all-purpose miles in her as well... that will make a huge difference in any contest of closely matched cars.
As it sits for daily driving, my car looks like a ho-hum, run of the mill Integra. It's a white four door, and is not really that low. The car maintains its stock Fat-5 (hammer?) rims, wrapped with Bridgestone Potenza Re010 rubber in the stock 195/55/15 size. The Re010 is being discontinued I believe, but it is an all around excellent tire for the Integra (hence Honda's decision to make it the spec tire on the Integra Type-r). I run the Re010 over stickier tires like the BFG KD, or Azenis 615 for their slightly better wear resistance and their wet road capabilities, and even got to use them in light snow the other day, which was definitely not their forte.
The braking on my car is very good for auto-x and road use, requiring no real warm-up time and provide plenty of fade-free stops from slow to moderate speeds (think 80mph and slower). I have Brembo slotted rotors front and rear, in the stock sizes, along with Hawk HP-plus pads and Goodridge stainless steel brake lines at all four corners. The hydraulic fluid pushing the pistons to pad to rotor is Motul RBF600, and is more than anybody needs on the street. The RBF is no where close to its boiling point when the brakes start to fade due to the pads exceeding their recommended operating range, so it is definitely not the weak-point in my brake system. The car maintains its factory ABS system with no changes or modifications made to the brakes beyond what is listed above.
As far as acceleration is concerned, my Integra can consistently run 14.68 to 14.75 second quarter miles at 92'ish MPH. This is achieved on the same Re010 tires that I run everyday, deflated to about 25 psi in the front. My car has the basic I/H/E, as well as an Exedy 3 puck clutch and Exedy flywheel, and sends its power through a Quaife ATB differential (automatic torque biasing differential) and factory GS-R gearbox. My car is nowhere near the fastest, best handling, or best braking Integra out there, but it is probably one of the best balanced and most fun to drive cars you could ever hope to pilot around a road or short track.
Simple and effective mods are all you need to make your car a well sorted, well balanced, and most importantly: FUN car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cliffs:
spss3 valved Koni shocks
custom rate Ground-Control coil-overs
chassis stiffening
alignment
good sticky tires
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tornadom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My GS-R will out accelerate, out brake, and out handle a stock Type-R
I have a 1994 GS-R sedan with the chassis stitch welded aft the rear seats, a Speedtech 22mm rear sway bar and chassis tie bar, Password JDM 2 point rear strut bar and their 3 point front strut bar. The suspension is a simple, yet effective setup consisting of spss3 valved (race valved) Koni shocks, Ground-control coil-overs with a custom spring rates (that shall remain unspecified due to me being selfish about its awesomeness), Ground-control extended top-hats, J's racing roll center adjusters up front and Silk-Road inner fender braces up front (a temporary mod until I can seam and stitch weld the front end). Combined with a good alignment (slight toe-out up front, and 0 toe in the rear) and camber settings, the car maintains a very neutral handling balance under neutral throttle... lift the throttle to rotate the car, or apply the throttle to straighten the car.
The part that will make the greatest difference in handling, braking and accelerating is going to be your tires and driving skill. I have auto-x'd for 4 years in this car on everything from a bone stock car, to its current incarnation on Hoosier's, and have about 100,000 all-purpose miles in her as well... that will make a huge difference in any contest of closely matched cars.
As it sits for daily driving, my car looks like a ho-hum, run of the mill Integra. It's a white four door, and is not really that low. The car maintains its stock Fat-5 (hammer?) rims, wrapped with Bridgestone Potenza Re010 rubber in the stock 195/55/15 size. The Re010 is being discontinued I believe, but it is an all around excellent tire for the Integra (hence Honda's decision to make it the spec tire on the Integra Type-r). I run the Re010 over stickier tires like the BFG KD, or Azenis 615 for their slightly better wear resistance and their wet road capabilities, and even got to use them in light snow the other day, which was definitely not their forte.
The braking on my car is very good for auto-x and road use, requiring no real warm-up time and provide plenty of fade-free stops from slow to moderate speeds (think 80mph and slower). I have Brembo slotted rotors front and rear, in the stock sizes, along with Hawk HP-plus pads and Goodridge stainless steel brake lines at all four corners. The hydraulic fluid pushing the pistons to pad to rotor is Motul RBF600, and is more than anybody needs on the street. The RBF is no where close to its boiling point when the brakes start to fade due to the pads exceeding their recommended operating range, so it is definitely not the weak-point in my brake system. The car maintains its factory ABS system with no changes or modifications made to the brakes beyond what is listed above.
As far as acceleration is concerned, my Integra can consistently run 14.68 to 14.75 second quarter miles at 92'ish MPH. This is achieved on the same Re010 tires that I run everyday, deflated to about 25 psi in the front. My car has the basic I/H/E, as well as an Exedy 3 puck clutch and Exedy flywheel, and sends its power through a Quaife ATB differential (automatic torque biasing differential) and factory GS-R gearbox. My car is nowhere near the fastest, best handling, or best braking Integra out there, but it is probably one of the best balanced and most fun to drive cars you could ever hope to pilot around a road or short track.
Simple and effective mods are all you need to make your car a well sorted, well balanced, and most importantly: FUN car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cliffs:
spss3 valved Koni shocks
custom rate Ground-Control coil-overs
chassis stiffening
alignment
good sticky tires
10-20-2007, 05:23 AM
#23
Junior Member
to sum it all up....
you need some *springs/shocks or coilovers* do some research see what fits your budget...
you need to upgrade the *rear sway bar*... ITR cheap and easy to find...
you need some sort of *camber control* on the front IF you plan on lowering much(remember lower doesnt nececeraly mean handle better)
rear can easily be shimmed...
and you need a decent set of wheels and *tires*....
and a *ALIGNMENT*
you dont need strut bars,tie bars,control arms, or all the other stuff these will make minimal improvement and just cost you more money.... buy these AFTER you get the other stuff and want some more.. and yes stitch welding a car will make a HUGE difference better than any strut bar x50... and so will a properly designed roll bar/cage... but oviously these are more expensive and are and will have permanent affects on your car... and theyre also deffinately not cheap unless you can do it yourself..
you need some *springs/shocks or coilovers* do some research see what fits your budget...
you need to upgrade the *rear sway bar*... ITR cheap and easy to find...
you need some sort of *camber control* on the front IF you plan on lowering much(remember lower doesnt nececeraly mean handle better)
rear can easily be shimmed...
and you need a decent set of wheels and *tires*....
and a *ALIGNMENT*
you dont need strut bars,tie bars,control arms, or all the other stuff these will make minimal improvement and just cost you more money.... buy these AFTER you get the other stuff and want some more.. and yes stitch welding a car will make a HUGE difference better than any strut bar x50... and so will a properly designed roll bar/cage... but oviously these are more expensive and are and will have permanent affects on your car... and theyre also deffinately not cheap unless you can do it yourself..
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