Air Conditioning Question!!!
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Air Conditioning Question!!!
Here's my problem: The Suction line on my girls AC busted a couple of weeks ago. So I swapped out the line and went to a buddy's shop to evac. and recharge the system. When we turned on the AC, It would come on, but the Compressor clutch would slip. So my buddy told me I needed a new compressor. Well, I swapped out the compressor with a used one and recharged the system. When I turned it on, it blew cold air, but not as cold as my car. Then after about 15min of running , the clutch compressor started slipping agian!!! Is there anything that could be causing this to slip? Or do I just have another bad compressor on my hands? I didn't evac. the system before I charged it, because I wanted to check everything first. I checked the Helms and I didn't see anything in there for the compressor clutch slipping. Any help would be appreciated. TIA-Dan
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Re: Air Conditioning Question!!! (Vap133)
Yeah, I bought if off of a wrecked integra, but was running before the wreck. And it ran for about 15 min, before the clutch started to slip.
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Re: Air Conditioning Question!!! (DSayavan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSayavan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recharged it with a can of r134 that had the oil in it too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how many oz of oil did it have?
how many oz of oil did it have?
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Re: Air Conditioning Question!!! (97civicdx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97civicdx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When u say clutch slip, is it the belt or the clutch screetching?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's the clutch slipping. You can see the compressor pulley turning just fine. But you can see the clutch spinning, then stopping, then spin agian. Everytime it does it, it makes a chirping noise.
It's the clutch slipping. You can see the compressor pulley turning just fine. But you can see the clutch spinning, then stopping, then spin agian. Everytime it does it, it makes a chirping noise.
#13
Re: Air Conditioning Question!!! (DSayavan)
i can the same question.. i got a 92 civic hb with the D15 in it. my clutch in the compressor isnt spinning so i figure that i need a new one. but i wanted to know will an 94-00 integra compressor will fit in my car w/ my D15 motor? please let me know asap!
#14
Re: Air Conditioning Question!!! (Eziekel)
Okay, first of all, lets talk some a/c basics, so we can start from scratch.
You said this was a used comp., which means it has been open to the atmosphere; so has the system you put it into(your ol' lady's car). All refrigerant oils absorb moisture when open to the atmosphere. R134a uses a synthetic oil (PAG oil), that is far worse about absorbing moisture than the old mineral oil we used in R12 systems. Moisture in a system boils under high pressures and temperatures, associated with normal a/c use. This boiled water vapor in the system causes the high side pressure to go through the roof(300psi and up), and will cause the pressure switch to "drop out" the compressor to keep from destroying something. When the clutch engages after the pressure drops enough to satisfy the pressure switch, you often hear the compressor squeak, due to the beating it's taking. If the pressures get real extreme (somewhere around 400psi), you'll hear the safety pop off valve on the compressor let go( a loud intermittent hissing noise). So, getting a good evacuation is CRITICAL after the system has been open.
Another thing that can cause real high pressures is too MUCH oil in the system. You mentioned that the 134a you used contained 3oz. oil as well. The rule of thumb when replacing major a/c components (comp., condensor, evap.) is 2oz. of oil for every major component, up to and not exceeding system maximum specs for oil(this spec is in the factory manuals for each model). If the compressor you installed already had 1 to 2oz. oil in it, and you added 3oz., you could easily be overcharged on oil, which could send those pressures skyrocketing.
If all that checks out, correct oil charge, correct refrigerant charge, with a good evacuation period, we can then look at our pressures for diagnosis> let me know when you get there....
You said this was a used comp., which means it has been open to the atmosphere; so has the system you put it into(your ol' lady's car). All refrigerant oils absorb moisture when open to the atmosphere. R134a uses a synthetic oil (PAG oil), that is far worse about absorbing moisture than the old mineral oil we used in R12 systems. Moisture in a system boils under high pressures and temperatures, associated with normal a/c use. This boiled water vapor in the system causes the high side pressure to go through the roof(300psi and up), and will cause the pressure switch to "drop out" the compressor to keep from destroying something. When the clutch engages after the pressure drops enough to satisfy the pressure switch, you often hear the compressor squeak, due to the beating it's taking. If the pressures get real extreme (somewhere around 400psi), you'll hear the safety pop off valve on the compressor let go( a loud intermittent hissing noise). So, getting a good evacuation is CRITICAL after the system has been open.
Another thing that can cause real high pressures is too MUCH oil in the system. You mentioned that the 134a you used contained 3oz. oil as well. The rule of thumb when replacing major a/c components (comp., condensor, evap.) is 2oz. of oil for every major component, up to and not exceeding system maximum specs for oil(this spec is in the factory manuals for each model). If the compressor you installed already had 1 to 2oz. oil in it, and you added 3oz., you could easily be overcharged on oil, which could send those pressures skyrocketing.
If all that checks out, correct oil charge, correct refrigerant charge, with a good evacuation period, we can then look at our pressures for diagnosis> let me know when you get there....
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