ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
04-23-2008, 02:23 PM
#1
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ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
my abs light is on so i checked the code and it only blinked 3 times in 5 second increments. (main code 3) am i reading the code correctly? i already checked and cleaned the rings on the axle and cleaned the sensors. any ideas
car: DA
car: DA
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12-22-2008, 08:57 AM
#3
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Re: ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=493
I purchased the car with a semi-dirty engine bay, and prior to cleaning it I did notice there was a bit of grease/grime around the ABS unit. The brake fluid level is fine though. Sorry for bringing this back up from the past, any input or ideas would be great, thanks!
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11-07-2010, 06:55 PM
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Re: ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX with the same problem.
The car used to have the same buzzing symptoms but it eventually stopped on its own.
However the ABS light issue is ongoing. I have searched high and low on the internet and have not found an answer. Hopefully somebody will read this post and help us out.
The car used to have the same buzzing symptoms but it eventually stopped on its own.
However the ABS light issue is ongoing. I have searched high and low on the internet and have not found an answer. Hopefully somebody will read this post and help us out.
11-08-2010, 09:33 AM
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Re: ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
Might want to post this question in the Accord forum.
Flashing once with a 7 second delay in between means it's flashing out Code 1 three times (it can store up to 3 codes). You'll need to find a repair manual for your car to see what the codes mean.
Flashing once with a 7 second delay in between means it's flashing out Code 1 three times (it can store up to 3 codes). You'll need to find a repair manual for your car to see what the codes mean.
11-08-2010, 11:57 AM
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Re: ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
Ok I found this and I hope is resolves this question:
How to Diagnose A Problem with Honda's ABS
Posted 9/9/2003
By Wayne Pasicznyk
“The most common call I receive is on Code 1. When flashed out, Code 1 is a single flash followed by a 5-second pause that repeats three times. Code 1 is a pump-overrun code. The ABS control unit is programmed to set a Code 1 when it thinks that the pump has been running for more than 45 seconds, or the pressure switch does not close, or it the pressure in the ABS system is insufficient.”
Honda's anti-lock brake systems (ABS) were first developed in the late 1980s on some models. In 1994, a compact ABS unit, located under the hood, was used primarily on the 1994-'97 Accord and the 1995-'97 Odyssey.
This compact unit featured an ABS pump, modulator and accumulator (an all-in-one unit) with all the solenoids and the pressure switch built into the modulator unit. All Honda ABS systems had a separate reservoir for the ABS brake fluid until the late 1990s. When the ABS reservoir is low or empty, it draws air into the ABS side of the system and causes the ABS light to illuminate.
The most common call I receive is on Code 1. When flashed out, Code 1 is a single flash followed by a 5-second pause that repeats three times. Code 1 is a pump-overrun code. The ABS control unit is programmed to set a Code 1 when it thinks that the pump has been running for more than 45 seconds, or the pressure switch does not close, or if the pressure in the ABS system is insufficient.
Code 1 Diagnostics:
Verify the ABS fluid reservoir is full. If the reservoir is low or empty, there may be air in the ABS system. Always remember the regular brake system and the ABS system should never transfer brake fluid between each other. Fill the reservoir as needed, and perform the following procedure to bleed the air out of the ABS system:
1) Start the engine and allow the ABS pump to run. (If the ABS pump does not run, separate diagnostics will need to be run on the ABS pump motor operation.)
2) When the ABS pump stops running, attach a hose to the brake bleeder on top of the ABS unit and run it into a container.
3) Open the bleeder. Check to see if the fluid is full of air or if any fluid comes out. If it's full of air, top off the ABS reservoir and repeat the procedure until all the air is out of the system.
If little or no fluid comes out, apply pressure to the ABS reservoir using a handheld vacuum pump to push the air out and help the ABS pump pick up the fluid. Attach the vacuum hose to the port on the vacuum pump where pressure is released during operation. The port may be covered with a cap - just remove it and attach the hose.
4) Attach the quarter-size round disc (found in most vacuum pump kits) to the other end of the vacuum hose to cover the filler hole on the top of the ABS reservoir.
5) Start the engine. As the ABS pump runs, apply pressure against the ABS fluid in the reservoir to help the ABS pump pick up the brake fluid.
There are many ways to pressurize the ABS reservoir. DO NOT overpressure. A noticeable change in the sound of the ABS pump motor should occur when it starts to build pressure.
6) After the pump shuts off, try bleeding the system again. If brake fluid bleeds out, repeat the procedure until the air is totally out of the system. Always remember to keep the ABS reservoir full of brake fluid. If no fluid bleeds out, most likely the ABS pump has failed and won't produce pressure.
If this procedure works and the ABS pump can achieve pressure in the 45-second time frame, Code 1 will not reset.
Note:
The pressure switch is built inside the ABS unit and signals the ABS control unit to verify there is enough ABS pressure in the system. So a faulty ABS pressure switch or a wire problem for the pressure switch will cause a Code 1 with correct pressure in the ABS system.
If the ABS system is low on brake fluid or empty, and the bleeding procedure cleared Code 1, verify the cause of the brake fluid leak in the ABS system. It is common for the plugs on the side of the ABS modulator to seep brake fluid, which may not always be visible.
The brake fluid can also push back into the normal braking system past leaking seals in the ABS modulator solenoids, which may cause the brake master cylinder reservoir level to rise.
If there is a leak anywhere on or in the ABS modulator/ pump unit, or if the ABS pump has failed, the complete modulator unit should be replaced.
Low accumulator pressure will set a Code 1-8 in the system.
If the accumulator pressure is correct and all the air is bled out of the system, every time the ABS bleeder is opened, 35 to 45 cc of fluid will be bled out of the system.
High or low brake fluid volume can indicate a loss of accumulator pressure.
Remembering these basic steps will help you diagnosis the problem in less time
How to Diagnose A Problem with Honda's ABS
Posted 9/9/2003
By Wayne Pasicznyk
“The most common call I receive is on Code 1. When flashed out, Code 1 is a single flash followed by a 5-second pause that repeats three times. Code 1 is a pump-overrun code. The ABS control unit is programmed to set a Code 1 when it thinks that the pump has been running for more than 45 seconds, or the pressure switch does not close, or it the pressure in the ABS system is insufficient.”
Honda's anti-lock brake systems (ABS) were first developed in the late 1980s on some models. In 1994, a compact ABS unit, located under the hood, was used primarily on the 1994-'97 Accord and the 1995-'97 Odyssey.
This compact unit featured an ABS pump, modulator and accumulator (an all-in-one unit) with all the solenoids and the pressure switch built into the modulator unit. All Honda ABS systems had a separate reservoir for the ABS brake fluid until the late 1990s. When the ABS reservoir is low or empty, it draws air into the ABS side of the system and causes the ABS light to illuminate.
The most common call I receive is on Code 1. When flashed out, Code 1 is a single flash followed by a 5-second pause that repeats three times. Code 1 is a pump-overrun code. The ABS control unit is programmed to set a Code 1 when it thinks that the pump has been running for more than 45 seconds, or the pressure switch does not close, or if the pressure in the ABS system is insufficient.
Code 1 Diagnostics:
Verify the ABS fluid reservoir is full. If the reservoir is low or empty, there may be air in the ABS system. Always remember the regular brake system and the ABS system should never transfer brake fluid between each other. Fill the reservoir as needed, and perform the following procedure to bleed the air out of the ABS system:
1) Start the engine and allow the ABS pump to run. (If the ABS pump does not run, separate diagnostics will need to be run on the ABS pump motor operation.)
2) When the ABS pump stops running, attach a hose to the brake bleeder on top of the ABS unit and run it into a container.
3) Open the bleeder. Check to see if the fluid is full of air or if any fluid comes out. If it's full of air, top off the ABS reservoir and repeat the procedure until all the air is out of the system.
If little or no fluid comes out, apply pressure to the ABS reservoir using a handheld vacuum pump to push the air out and help the ABS pump pick up the fluid. Attach the vacuum hose to the port on the vacuum pump where pressure is released during operation. The port may be covered with a cap - just remove it and attach the hose.
4) Attach the quarter-size round disc (found in most vacuum pump kits) to the other end of the vacuum hose to cover the filler hole on the top of the ABS reservoir.
5) Start the engine. As the ABS pump runs, apply pressure against the ABS fluid in the reservoir to help the ABS pump pick up the brake fluid.
There are many ways to pressurize the ABS reservoir. DO NOT overpressure. A noticeable change in the sound of the ABS pump motor should occur when it starts to build pressure.
6) After the pump shuts off, try bleeding the system again. If brake fluid bleeds out, repeat the procedure until the air is totally out of the system. Always remember to keep the ABS reservoir full of brake fluid. If no fluid bleeds out, most likely the ABS pump has failed and won't produce pressure.
If this procedure works and the ABS pump can achieve pressure in the 45-second time frame, Code 1 will not reset.
Note:
The pressure switch is built inside the ABS unit and signals the ABS control unit to verify there is enough ABS pressure in the system. So a faulty ABS pressure switch or a wire problem for the pressure switch will cause a Code 1 with correct pressure in the ABS system.
If the ABS system is low on brake fluid or empty, and the bleeding procedure cleared Code 1, verify the cause of the brake fluid leak in the ABS system. It is common for the plugs on the side of the ABS modulator to seep brake fluid, which may not always be visible.
The brake fluid can also push back into the normal braking system past leaking seals in the ABS modulator solenoids, which may cause the brake master cylinder reservoir level to rise.
If there is a leak anywhere on or in the ABS modulator/ pump unit, or if the ABS pump has failed, the complete modulator unit should be replaced.
Low accumulator pressure will set a Code 1-8 in the system.
If the accumulator pressure is correct and all the air is bled out of the system, every time the ABS bleeder is opened, 35 to 45 cc of fluid will be bled out of the system.
High or low brake fluid volume can indicate a loss of accumulator pressure.
Remembering these basic steps will help you diagnosis the problem in less time
11-08-2010, 12:03 PM
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Re: ABS Light on - blinked 3 times but no subcode
Wow, glad you found and posted that. I've had a Code 1 appear a couple of times in my car in recent months, stay on for a few days or a week, then just go away. I'll use this if I ever get around to checking it.
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