94DCTeg

Hello Members I have a buddy that is having issues with the 95 Integra, here is the low down of the car from what I can gather,

The car was purchased from a local guy acutally he lived 109 miles away from me, who says it ran perfect, the car ran solid when we test drove it, the only issue was the gas needle on the cluster didnt work, but anyways, Vtec engaged fine with no problems, no leaks other then the oil pan gasket, my buddy has had the car for about 2 months now and now the car idles like its got a bad misfire, plugs and plug wires were changed tonight and still has the misfire, cap and rotor look fine, he cleaned the connections in the cap and still the same issue, im pretty much lost at this point on what it could be !

here are the mods done to the car, from what I can pick out!
B16 Head
B18B Block
Skunk2 IM
No name huge throttle body
GSR Tranny
Adjustable Cam Gears (not sure what brand)
crower titanium valve springs, im assuming the previous owner did retainers aswell
Not sure what type of cams in the car, unless they are stock cams

im sure the car is running a base map for a tune, since the ecu is is chipped and running crome as tuning software from what I see, its not a hondata ecu.

does anyone have any suggestions on what it could be other then needing a good tune ?

thank you
Thomas

kodylive

could be the mass flow air senser sometimes the engine light doest come on for that or your throttle body might have something wrong with it no name engine part never lasted that long for me i would do the basic spark test, compresion test and injector test before you replace anything tou yust make sure you unplug your dizzy if your doing a compresion test.

94DCTeg

thanks for the fast reply ! I will deff check those items, thank you very much !

94DCTeg

i am having a stupid moment for the night, is there a MAF on an OBD1 integra ?? if so where is it located at ??

daidilus

check your cam timing, maybe one of those cam gears slipped

el crapitan

no. there is not. your car utilizes what's known as a speed density system. MAP sensor.

anyways, let's get you going on diagnostics.
first, check for codes. always check for codes first. always always always.
next, if no codes present, as mentioned, check your valve timing. if good, try and zero in on the specific trouble cylinder, if there is one. perform a power balance. engine running, disconnect the number 1 injector connector. if idle changes, reconnect and move onto the next cylinder. when you find the injector that makes no change to idle when disconnected, you've found your problem cylinder. next, HEI test the ignition system/cylinder. you need this tool.
buy an HEI tester. they're like 20$ and are absolutely necessary. buy it and test the ignition system.
if ignition passes, move onto fuel.
install a fuel pressure gauge.
engine running, fuel pressure should be roughly 35-40psi. if so, pinch off the vac line at the fuel pressure regulator. pressure should rise by approx. 10psi. if not, regulator or vac line is bad. now, paying close attention to the gauge, snap the throttle 3 times. pressure should drop by no more than 2 psi. if it does, there is either a restriction (filter) or the pump is worn.

if both ignition and fuel pass, move onto a vacuum/compression test. at idle, operating temp, vacuum should be roughly 20HG. needle should remain steady at it's reading

follow that flow chart. if you do, to a tee, and can't find it still, we'll move onto other diag.

94DCTeg

Thank you very much ! I will give that a shot !!!!!!!!!!!!