11psiGSR

Hi guys,

I am in the process of completing a partial wire/brake tuck on my 1995 GSR. We are keeping ABS and the pump is going to remain in the stock location.

I know the non-ABS Integra's used the 40/40 prop valve which is needed for removing ABS, but I cannot find any info on the valve in the below pic. It's not really even talked about in my Helms manual, nor can I really find many discussions on H-T about it since most folks remove the ABS system entirely.

Can I ditch this valve? My understanding is that brake proportioning is done inside the ABS pump. I'd like to toss it since it can be easily seen behind the intake manifold. Worse case scenario, I will lower or re-locate it.

Thanks for your help!

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

It's just a junction block for the rear lines. You can toss it.
If you're doing a brake tuck then why the hell are you keeping abs? You lose 28lbs by removing it and it's a GIANT eyesore.

Necromonger

If you do not want to die then do not remove ABS. By prop valve I assume you mean proportioning valve. Shoudn't it already have one going to the rear brakes? I am unfamiliar with Honda brake systems, are they diagonal split?

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

Are you serious! Yes because taking out abs and switching it to the same setup that all 92-95 civics hb have will kill you. Please stop talking right away. Not to mention there are 1000's of people who remove it for the performance aspect of it while running track events. All rs integras and type r integras don't come with abs. So please do explain why I'm going to die.

Necromonger

Then those 1000s of people don't care for their lifes and only real professionals know how to manually modulate the brake pedal to free locked brakes. ABS is put for a reason. It prevents brake fading and unless you are aware of the types of fadings or are running super high boiling point brake fluid then go ahead and don't use ABS. Lets see if you can afford the expensive racing brake fluid, not to mention good luck in your maintenance intervals, finding it and buying it each time you need to bleed the brakes.

I would not go anywhere without ABS I have had friends who think like you crash because their brakes locked up during a panic stop. Yeah go follow those 1000s of people jumping off the bridge and see where that'll take you.

dntnedvtec

Well, I would say to keep the ABS. Helps in the winter time too....

11psiGSR

Great. Thanks for the response!

I am keeping ABS for several reasons, one of which is I believe thoroughly in the safety aspect of it. The car has 13" Baer Brakes on the front and rear... So I am also concerned about lockup, particularly in the back. I am running NT01's, but they rarely get up to temps on the street to help matters. I don't track this particular car, I have a Z06 I use for HPDE's so that isn't a factor for me. Shaving the extra weight doesn't really bother me either. Lightly tuned and conservative boost, she lays down 432 at the wheels. I doubt the extra weight would be noticable on the butt dyno. 1/4 mile et's aren't my game.

If I wanted to shave more weight I would use that new mod... P90x. Or have someone that isn't 6'4" 285lbs drive it.

vrrodri

If you go down to 260 lbs you will shave 25 lbs off the weight of the car when you drive!! LOL

Ontario_Integra

To the guy that says you'll die without ABS..

You do know that untill 1998 many honda/acura models (amung other car makers) weren't standard with ABS right? To add to that power steering also wasn't standard equipment either. (which with your logic it is arguably as much of a safety feature as ABS) Many people are still driving pre 2000 CX, VX, and DX civics with neither of the above OPTIONAL factory equipment. For over 20 years and for 100,000's of kilometers and they still aren't dead from smashing into the back of somebody from lack of ABS, because the person is the drivers seat drives the car not visa versa. These are creature comfort features, or as many would call them "safety net features" for when you ****ed up.

I have a 95 RS Integra and it never came with ABS from factory. I do have Hawk pads, EBC rotors, and (the highly expensive $8 a bottle) prestone dot 4 brake fluid you must have been refering too as the expensive race fluid? I daily this setup and I track this setup on a weekly basis, for over a year now with no issues with locking up or poor pedal feel. I have driven my friends cars with ABS (ie RSX Type-S) and i found the ABS to be intruding, overbearing, and unpredictable when spiritedly driving. But hey thats my opinion

To the op sorry for the thread jack just had to throw in my 2 cents on this subject.. car sounds fantasticly quick and fun. a 25lb ABS unit will clearly make no difference in a high power boostmobile!

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

Do you know my my occupation or my income? I run ATE type 200 "amber" DOT4 which has a wet boiling point of 388F and dry of 536F. Plus it's good for 3yrs. Been proven to be one of the top brand fluids available. It's only $15 dollars a litre. Also besides track cars who the f-ck bleeds their brakes every month? 1ltr is enough to bleed your brakes for a year+ even at 1x a month. Not to mention most people don't even drive their car hard enough on the street to need anything other then what you can buy at advance or wherever. Please just stop talking.
Also you never commented on all the honda/acura cars that didn't come with abs from the factory????????????????????????? So by your logic honda builds cars to kill people...right? IMO you don't seem like you even know WTF you're talking about.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

ATE TYP 200 Amber Brake Fluid is designed to excel within the extreme demands made on a race vehicle or by high performance drivers and exceeds all DOT4 standards. It is compatible with and will mix well with most DOT3, DOT4 or DOT 5.1 fluids.

The formula offers a minimal drop in boiling point due to outstanding water binding properties resulting in a long-lasting fluid that may not need to be changed for up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions. Products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g., DOT3 products should be replaced annually). The overall high dry and wet boiling points make this fluid an excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too, where brake fluid is flushed less frequently than that in race-driven vehicles.

Features/Benefits of ATE TYP 200 Amber Brake Fluid:

* Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F
* Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F
* Viscosity at -104 degrees F: max 1,400 mm 2/5
* Designed to last up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions