Grizzlysc89

PLEASE HELP!!!.. I have a 1992 acura integra GSi 2dr hatch... b18a1 engine w/ auto trans... non-vtec. Car will not start. Car was running perfect, smooth as silk, parked it at the store and came back out, only cranks, no start. Checked fuses on site, all good. Tow it home and start troubleshooting. Realized I'm not getting fire from plug wires. Then pop off dizzy cap and rotor to check resistance on coil itself. Readings were not in spec. I had spare dizzy that was confirmed good and working so I swap them out. Also checked resistance as well on it to be sure and it was in spec. But still not getting fire. Also not getting fire to the coil. So I check main relay/fuel pump relay next. No clicks heard when car is in the ON position. Next change out relay. Put new one in and turned car to ON position, clicks are now present. But still I am not getting fire. I just don't wanna keep throwing money into this and end up changing parts that are not needed. What would be the very next thing to inspect? Also my CEL comes on and stays on, does not go off. I tried to check the fault codes via the two prong service connector but when I do the CEL still stays solid, does not flash or anything. Any advice given would be greatly appreciated.

Grizzlysc89

My car is in excellent condition also, especially considering over 20 years old. But 1 thing that really burns my *** is when I had to have it towed back home, had to leave it for a lil bit while we went and got a trailer. During that time away some jerk off decided to steal my "A" emblems off the hood and hatch. Wouldn't of pissed me off as bad if they weren't the originals that come on the car in 92!. Nothing (besides those 2 items now) is missing from it, no cracks in dash or saggy headliner. The interior was reupholstered with 2 tone leather. With new paint and a few small things, I believe the car would have SHOW potential.

Grizzlysc89

Any help or advice with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Grizzlysc89

82 views so far.. not one response. .. please guys.. I'm at a standstill right now.. I'm literally under the hood now just checking everything I can think of. .

bigtimegambler

Okay I have a few suggestions. Check to make sure your grounds are all intact. Sometimes they deteriorate, or you need to clean them, and then you are not able to start the car. Second, check all your fuses, in the engine bay and under the dash. if everything mentioned above is good, you may have a bad battery... test it with a volt meter. If that isn't the case, you may have a bad starter. Hit it with a screw driver and if it starts, its a bad starter. And if that isn't the case, then it could be the actual ignition. That is the order i would test things. It is good you replaced the distributer and the relay already.

Grizzlysc89

Ok so it seems like I'm going n the right direction?

bigtimegambler

Yes, please troubleshoot in the order I mentioned above. Hopefully it works out for you.

Grizzlysc89

I have been checking grounds today, not done but getting there. But all fuses have been check and not by sight either, done with a DMM. Also the battery is good, starter is good, car has no problem turning over, just as strong as always. Haven't checked ignition yet, how exactly would I test that?

bigtimegambler

I believe you check the voltage to the main relay to test the ignition switch.

bigtimegambler

So if your car is clicking/turning over i think the ignition switch is inherently good anyways. Did you physically use a voltage meter on the battery...? if all of the above is good, that basically covers all ignition issues.

So then it would be fuel. I have heard a clogged fuel filter would prevent the starting of a motor because the conditions would be too lean.

Grizzlysc89

I just ran across this.. very interesting and I believe I may have found a very possible solution. I did state n the first post about my CEL coming on and staying on ,will not go off.

nyckid

had the same prb my dizzy was no good so i changed the icm and coil with new ones and still no start. then changed the main relay still no start.

i ended up buying a brandnew dizzy from ebay and my car started right up.


http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...utor-plug-swap

try and put the good icm and coil in your old dizzy.

full Circling

so you have a check engine light?

what happens when you jump the connector to read the codes? does it blink or just stay solid?

wunfstgsr

Well you said your not getting spark at the coil so its not the dizzy. Might be a bad ecu or maybe even you slipped your timing belt somehow so check mech timing see if the cam gears line up at TDC.

NWsleeperswaps

First off check the ground nearest the dizzy (should be one on the thermostat or the starter or both. Take it off and clean the metal grounding surfaces.

Next up if that doesn't solve your problems determine if your problem is Ecu or crank sensors.

A CELcofe 0 constant on = bad Ecu.

You can test the distributor crank sensors on a workbench trace the wires from the igniter to the crank sensor in the dizzy. Measure for voltage across the 2 leads from the sensor (jumper leads help for this next part) while turning shaft ccw (it looking at shaft head on). Upon rotation you should see very small voltage spikes (mV most likely) if you see no voltage while turning the shaft your best bet is to buy a new dizzy or Frankenstein one from a couple old ones.

Hope this helps.

Grizzlysc89

Thanks guys for the help/advice. I have checked everything listed above and yes the car does have a solid CEL. Even when I jump the service connector I get no flashes, just a solid light. I pulled out the ecu and opened it up and took some pics of the inside. I'm gonna post them to see what you guys think.

Grizzlysc89

NWsleeperswaps

Usually it's very difficult to tell if an ecu is bad by looking at it. Borrow your mates ecu see if it runs then. If not check your ecu grounds, battery ground, and your battery. if you're getting CEL code 0 your ecu is most likely toast.

90Acura

Any chance you may have done what I did? While changing a idle circuit coolant hose, the distributor plug was knocked loose. Bottom line is that it threw a code that would not clear, due to turning the ignition on while the distributor was unplugged. In my case, I found the solution to be grounding out the non powered terminal of the 15A hazard fuse to clear the computer code, which is not something that is published. A guy posted in my thread and stated that he remembered the manual saying that turning the ignition on with the distributor unplugged can destroy the computer. So far I've lucked out and that didn't happen, but it sure ticked me off spending some hours getting a code to clear, all due to a lousy hose change.

A member mentioned in the thread I posted about the problem that can occur from turning the ignition on with a distributor unplugged:
"the factory shop manual has a warning about never allowing the thick white wire from distributor to ECU to become disconnected while the ignition is on. Do do so, as I recall, results in damage to the ECU."
https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...clear-3264762/