90-93 PS Valve Body Unit Assembly for PS removal DIY
01-23-2006, 12:11 AM
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90-93 PS Valve Body Unit Assembly for PS removal DIY
I take no responsibility for what <U>you</U> do to your car.
This is step by step what I did to put the valve body back together. I didn't put the "Gain Control Valve" or "Pressure Control Valve" back in when I did this DIY, for the simple reason that I don't think it's needed. With them taken out it lets the PS fluid flow with less restriction then if they were in. That's just what I think, If you would like to put them back in when you re assemble your valve body that's no problem.
Also, Please be safe when working under your car!
First off, it's imperative to this operation that all of the internal components and surfaces stay clean. I Highly recommend working with gloves, in fact I changed gloves three times while working on the valve body to ensure that I didn't get any small debris or sand on the critical parts. Also If any of the parts are dirty then by all means clean them, then get them all nice and slippery with OEM Honda PS fluid.
Pictured below are all of the parts that come out of the valve body including the ones I didn't install.
(Since my lines are already looped I don't need to take off the PS lines to remove the valve body, if you have not looped your lines then you will need to take the PS lines off to continue)
Remove the two highlighted 10mm bolts. One will come all the way out, and the other is blocked by the PS line. You can use a box wrench to take it off like I did or take off that PS line and use your socket to remove the bolt. If there is PS fluid in your system then be warned it's going to come out when you pull the valve body off. You should be able to carefully pull off the valve body once the two bolts are removed. Once you take it off there are two port orifices that will fall out and a couple of o-rings too, save them for later.
Remove the three 10mm bolts from the valve body once you have taken it out of the car and have setup a clean place to work.
Take the gasket and set it aside since your going to need it later, you may want to clean it now and get a bin to put your clean parts in.
At this point you should be able to separate the valve body and port housing.
Here is what the port housing looks like. Take the port seal and clean it if it's dirty, if it does not fall off the housing then just leave it there.
Place one roller in to the hole in the 4-way valve closest to the end with the seal. Then place the 4-way valve in the port housing as shown.
Make sure that the highlighted area looks like this when you place your 4-way valve in the port housing. One needs to see the groove on the 4-way valve, this is what returns the pinion to the neutral position.
Next place two of the plungers into the valve body as shown in the highlighted areas.
Now look to the other side of the valve body and place the two return springs into the valve body as shown.
The next step is to put the two remaining plungers into the valve body and slide the valve body assembly onto the port housing ensuring that none of the parts fall out in the process.
Put the remaining roller into the hole in the 4-way valve. You'll need to push down the plungers to be able to slide it in.
Tighten the three highlighted 10mm bolts to 7 lb-ft.
When one takes off the valve body unit these two jets fall out, It's a good idea to save them, even though I really don't think they are that important if you have no PS anymore. I still put them in though.
I put a little urea grease on the pinion area just for the hell of it since I don't plan on taking this apart again for a while. This is optional. The two highlighted holes are where the port orifices go, It's a PITA to get the port orifices to stay in their holes while one puts the valve body unit back on. Be carefully to not hit the pinion holder pin and also not to pinch the o-rings if they fall out of place.
Good Luck!
Once you have the valve body unit back in place put the two 10mm bolts to 16 lb-ft.
Hope this helps. I have teed one of the looped lines and am putting in a tilton reservoir to hold some PS fluid so the system always has good lubrication. Just like on the real time cars.... If anyone wants picts of the tee and reservoir then I can post them by request.
Thanks reading,
~Eric
Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 8:48 AM 1/23/2006
This is step by step what I did to put the valve body back together. I didn't put the "Gain Control Valve" or "Pressure Control Valve" back in when I did this DIY, for the simple reason that I don't think it's needed. With them taken out it lets the PS fluid flow with less restriction then if they were in. That's just what I think, If you would like to put them back in when you re assemble your valve body that's no problem.
Also, Please be safe when working under your car!
First off, it's imperative to this operation that all of the internal components and surfaces stay clean. I Highly recommend working with gloves, in fact I changed gloves three times while working on the valve body to ensure that I didn't get any small debris or sand on the critical parts. Also If any of the parts are dirty then by all means clean them, then get them all nice and slippery with OEM Honda PS fluid.
Pictured below are all of the parts that come out of the valve body including the ones I didn't install.
(Since my lines are already looped I don't need to take off the PS lines to remove the valve body, if you have not looped your lines then you will need to take the PS lines off to continue)
Remove the two highlighted 10mm bolts. One will come all the way out, and the other is blocked by the PS line. You can use a box wrench to take it off like I did or take off that PS line and use your socket to remove the bolt. If there is PS fluid in your system then be warned it's going to come out when you pull the valve body off. You should be able to carefully pull off the valve body once the two bolts are removed. Once you take it off there are two port orifices that will fall out and a couple of o-rings too, save them for later.
Remove the three 10mm bolts from the valve body once you have taken it out of the car and have setup a clean place to work.
Take the gasket and set it aside since your going to need it later, you may want to clean it now and get a bin to put your clean parts in.
At this point you should be able to separate the valve body and port housing.
Here is what the port housing looks like. Take the port seal and clean it if it's dirty, if it does not fall off the housing then just leave it there.
Place one roller in to the hole in the 4-way valve closest to the end with the seal. Then place the 4-way valve in the port housing as shown.
Make sure that the highlighted area looks like this when you place your 4-way valve in the port housing. One needs to see the groove on the 4-way valve, this is what returns the pinion to the neutral position.
Next place two of the plungers into the valve body as shown in the highlighted areas.
Now look to the other side of the valve body and place the two return springs into the valve body as shown.
The next step is to put the two remaining plungers into the valve body and slide the valve body assembly onto the port housing ensuring that none of the parts fall out in the process.
Put the remaining roller into the hole in the 4-way valve. You'll need to push down the plungers to be able to slide it in.
Tighten the three highlighted 10mm bolts to 7 lb-ft.
When one takes off the valve body unit these two jets fall out, It's a good idea to save them, even though I really don't think they are that important if you have no PS anymore. I still put them in though.
I put a little urea grease on the pinion area just for the hell of it since I don't plan on taking this apart again for a while. This is optional. The two highlighted holes are where the port orifices go, It's a PITA to get the port orifices to stay in their holes while one puts the valve body unit back on. Be carefully to not hit the pinion holder pin and also not to pinch the o-rings if they fall out of place.
Good Luck!
Once you have the valve body unit back in place put the two 10mm bolts to 16 lb-ft.
Hope this helps. I have teed one of the looped lines and am putting in a tilton reservoir to hold some PS fluid so the system always has good lubrication. Just like on the real time cars.... If anyone wants picts of the tee and reservoir then I can post them by request.
Thanks reading,
~Eric
Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 8:48 AM 1/23/2006
01-23-2006, 12:58 AM
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how did this compare to just looping the system i just looped my system yesterday and i felt that the steering was a bit easier at slow speeds. i am in the near future adding a breather to the system.
01-23-2006, 01:03 AM
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Re: (projectTeG)
my reservoir is still in the mail... I don't think it will feel any different then looped lines. I just think it's good because one can get most of the air bubbles out and keep the rack better lubed up then with the looped lines. Plus it's way easier to fill the system with fluid.
Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 2:17 AM 1/23/2006
Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 2:17 AM 1/23/2006
01-24-2006, 05:27 PM
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Re: 90-93 PS Valve Body Unit Assembly for PS removal DIY (SwedBoy2999)
02-11-2007, 07:18 AM
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Re: 90-93 PS Valve Body Unit Assembly for PS removal DIY (jacksont001)
I think this'll fix it
Originally Posted by SwedBoy2999
I take no responsibility for what <U>you</U> do to your car.
This is step by step what I did to put the valve body back together. I didn't put the "Gain Control Valve" or "Pressure Control Valve" back in when I did this DIY, for the simple reason that I don't think it's needed. With them taken out it lets the PS fluid flow with less restriction then if they were in. That's just what I think, If you would like to put them back in when you re assemble your valve body that's no problem.
Also, Please be safe when working under your car!
First off, it's imperative to this operation that all of the internal components and surfaces stay clean. I Highly recommend working with gloves, in fact I changed gloves three times while working on the valve body to ensure that I didn't get any small debris or sand on the critical parts. Also If any of the parts are dirty then by all means clean them, then get them all nice and slippery with OEM Honda PS fluid.
Pictured below are all of the parts that come out of the valve body including the ones I didn't install.
(Since my lines are already looped I don't need to take off the PS lines to remove the valve body, if you have not looped your lines then you will need to take the PS lines off to continue)
Remove the two highlighted 10mm bolts. One will come all the way out, and the other is blocked by the PS line. You can use a box wrench to take it off like I did or take off that PS line and use your socket to remove the bolt. If there is PS fluid in your system then be warned it's going to come out when you pull the valve body off. You should be able to carefully pull off the valve body once the two bolts are removed. Once you take it off there are two port orifices that will fall out and a couple of o-rings too, save them for later.
Remove the three 10mm bolts from the valve body once you have taken it out of the car and have setup a clean place to work.
Take the gasket and set it aside since your going to need it later, you may want to clean it now and get a bin to put your clean parts in.
At this point you should be able to separate the valve body and port housing.
Here is what the port housing looks like. Take the port seal and clean it if it's dirty, if it does not fall off the housing then just leave it there.
Place one roller in to the hole in the 4-way valve closest to the end with the seal. Then place the 4-way valve in the port housing as shown.
Make sure that the highlighted area looks like this when you place your 4-way valve in the port housing. One needs to see the groove on the 4-way valve, this is what returns the pinion to the neutral position.
Next place two of the plungers into the valve body as shown in the highlighted areas.
Now look to the other side of the valve body and place the two return springs into the valve body as shown.
The next step is to put the two remaining plungers into the valve body and slide the valve body assembly onto the port housing ensuring that none of the parts fall out in the process.
Put the remaining roller into the hole in the 4-way valve. You'll need to push down the plungers to be able to slide it in.
Tighten the three highlighted 10mm bolts to 7 lb-ft.
When one takes off the valve body unit these two jets fall out, It's a good idea to save them, even though I really don't think they are that important if you have no PS anymore. I still put them in though.
I put a little urea grease on the pinion area just for the hell of it since I don't plan on taking this apart again for a while. This is optional. The two highlighted holes are where the port orifices go, It's a PITA to get the port orifices to stay in their holes while one puts the valve body unit back on. Be carefully to not hit the pinion holder pin and also not to pinch the o-rings if they fall out of place.
Good Luck!
Once you have the valve body unit back in place put the two 10mm bolts to 16 lb-ft.
Hope this helps. I have teed one of the looped lines and am putting in a tilton reservoir to hold some PS fluid so the system always has good lubrication. Just like on the real time cars.... If anyone wants picts of the tee and reservoir then I can post them by request.
Thanks reading,
~Eric
Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 8:48 AM 1/23/2006
This is step by step what I did to put the valve body back together. I didn't put the "Gain Control Valve" or "Pressure Control Valve" back in when I did this DIY, for the simple reason that I don't think it's needed. With them taken out it lets the PS fluid flow with less restriction then if they were in. That's just what I think, If you would like to put them back in when you re assemble your valve body that's no problem.
Also, Please be safe when working under your car!
First off, it's imperative to this operation that all of the internal components and surfaces stay clean. I Highly recommend working with gloves, in fact I changed gloves three times while working on the valve body to ensure that I didn't get any small debris or sand on the critical parts. Also If any of the parts are dirty then by all means clean them, then get them all nice and slippery with OEM Honda PS fluid.
Pictured below are all of the parts that come out of the valve body including the ones I didn't install.
(Since my lines are already looped I don't need to take off the PS lines to remove the valve body, if you have not looped your lines then you will need to take the PS lines off to continue)
Remove the two highlighted 10mm bolts. One will come all the way out, and the other is blocked by the PS line. You can use a box wrench to take it off like I did or take off that PS line and use your socket to remove the bolt. If there is PS fluid in your system then be warned it's going to come out when you pull the valve body off. You should be able to carefully pull off the valve body once the two bolts are removed. Once you take it off there are two port orifices that will fall out and a couple of o-rings too, save them for later.
Remove the three 10mm bolts from the valve body once you have taken it out of the car and have setup a clean place to work.
Take the gasket and set it aside since your going to need it later, you may want to clean it now and get a bin to put your clean parts in.
At this point you should be able to separate the valve body and port housing.
Here is what the port housing looks like. Take the port seal and clean it if it's dirty, if it does not fall off the housing then just leave it there.
Place one roller in to the hole in the 4-way valve closest to the end with the seal. Then place the 4-way valve in the port housing as shown.
Make sure that the highlighted area looks like this when you place your 4-way valve in the port housing. One needs to see the groove on the 4-way valve, this is what returns the pinion to the neutral position.
Next place two of the plungers into the valve body as shown in the highlighted areas.
Now look to the other side of the valve body and place the two return springs into the valve body as shown.
The next step is to put the two remaining plungers into the valve body and slide the valve body assembly onto the port housing ensuring that none of the parts fall out in the process.
Put the remaining roller into the hole in the 4-way valve. You'll need to push down the plungers to be able to slide it in.
Tighten the three highlighted 10mm bolts to 7 lb-ft.
When one takes off the valve body unit these two jets fall out, It's a good idea to save them, even though I really don't think they are that important if you have no PS anymore. I still put them in though.
I put a little urea grease on the pinion area just for the hell of it since I don't plan on taking this apart again for a while. This is optional. The two highlighted holes are where the port orifices go, It's a PITA to get the port orifices to stay in their holes while one puts the valve body unit back on. Be carefully to not hit the pinion holder pin and also not to pinch the o-rings if they fall out of place.
Good Luck!
Once you have the valve body unit back in place put the two 10mm bolts to 16 lb-ft.
Hope this helps. I have teed one of the looped lines and am putting in a tilton reservoir to hold some PS fluid so the system always has good lubrication. Just like on the real time cars.... If anyone wants picts of the tee and reservoir then I can post them by request.
Thanks reading,
~Eric
Modified by SwedBoy2999 at 8:48 AM 1/23/2006
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06-04-2008, 08:59 AM
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Re: 90-93 PS Valve Body Unit Assembly for PS removal DIY (b16a4)
I will try to rehost the pictures one of these days now that I have my own personal webspace. 
04-01-2009, 12:07 PM
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04-17-2009, 07:35 PM
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Re: 90-93 PS Valve Body Unit Assembly for PS removal DIY
if anybody has the pics for the correct way to but the valve body back please post it or e-mail it to me at rayrayb20t@yahoo.com thanks
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