95tegbuild

Hey everyone i have a 2001 gsr with a jdm b18c if you didnt see the title

i bought it with issues and am putting it together currently.

i read that there is no crank fluctuation sensor on jdm b18c and to re wire some wires goin into ecu.

So i removed the ecu to find that previous owner has already done this with the cheap wire splicers which is how i saw it done online only instead of leaving the wires intact and splicing them together he decided to cut the wires so im assuming he cut the two that come from the cfs and left the wires goin into ecu to splice into.

my question is by cutting these wires could this cause the car to run shitty as it would with no cfs connected?

basically should i fix the wires and do the job over again?

I just got done mounting comptech header back exhaust so i have barely run it and it seams to rev good and idle good but just kinda sounds like it needs a tune up

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Any CEl? If not then just make sure the wires aren't touching anything.

95tegbuild

i gotta couple things i have to tighten up but the last time i started and moved it it didnt throw a cel. im gonna do a tune up tommorow and run it for a bit and see how its running. i also want to check timing so if anyone knows of the top what degrees to set the timing that would be greatly appreciated.


also any random ideas? i read about a possible issue with vtec selenoid???? lmk thanks

95tegbuild

your funny! im just trying to get my car running right, and im relying on honda-tech for good info. however im not surprised that some punk kid would come back with jokes. GROW UP. and everyone else keep the good stuff coming

95tegbuild

oh and for any confusion its a jdm gsr b18c not type r if thats why you were making type r jokes

bonstokLS

I have a JDM B18c in my 95 gsr and it runs fine. Do you know what type of mods I need to verify and do to make it work properly on my GSR? I just want to make sure. This tread is making me worry....

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

Who are you talking to? Ignition timing should be at 16* BTDC

bonstokLS

There was a turd poster in here earlier. He was posting nothing but trash as well as in other threads. Trust me when I say.. He is nothing short of an asshat.

mark@silbernage

If it's a JDM ECU with the engine you're fine - doesn't really need the CKF. If its not a JDM ECU, you can do the CKF bypass and that works fine too - and will avoid a CEL.

I don't think the JDM has the EVAP purge, nor does it have the VTEC pressure switch (just the solenoid).. since you have the GSR it has the wiring to switch in intake.

So, clean up the wiring, clear the CELs, and then see whats left?

Mark

bonstokLS

Is there a DIY write up on this CKF bypass? Is there any way to tell if it does already have it?

95tegbuild

thanks for the info everyone i believe im running the stock gsr ecu thats why i need the ckf bypass

just to clear everything up i bought the car with the jdm b18c in it and was told it had some shitty running issues. at the time it had no header back exhaust so i since installed all of that and have a few other loose ends to tie up.

im pretty sure they put the gsr intake manifold on but this is only a guess because there in a new manifold gasket installed. there is a oil sensor i have to re wire cause the connection broke and i have to put a bolt on the alternator connection so once i get all that done im gonna run it and see if i can pull a code out of her.

Im basically just asking for other good info like i read if you dont do ckf bypass it will run like **** so im thinking if thats not done right it could be the problem.

thanks for all the good info everyone and i will post all the info i have after i get outta work.

95tegbuild

so it started snowing and i was unable to work on my gsr. i bought ngk r plugs and a gapper and i want to replace them but am having trouble finding gap specs. im going to replace plugs and comp test tommorow as well as check timing.

when i compression test motor would it be best to unplug dizzy? will post sometime tomm. with results

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

You need to unplug the distributor.

95tegbuild

ok so i tightened everything up and ran the car a few times. i have got no cel and it sounds like a misfire. im wondering the chances of it being a fuel injector? i drove it down the road and it dosent feel undriveable but it deff is under powered. i have not yet done the compression test but i replaced spark plugs and cap stupid parts store gave me a used rotor and im waiting to go pick up the new one.

im gonna wait to buy anything else till i comp test it but i would like to know if anyone thinks the fuel injector is a good route?

95tegbuild

So i ran motor and unplugged each fuel injector one at a time and the motor starts to die when each are unplugged with one exception

cyl 2 injector unplugged the motor runs the same as when its plugged in.......

does this mean that injector is bad????????? i want to buy one and try it but want someone elses opinion pls help

95tegbuild

im waiting for my compression tester to get here so i can go dig my car out of the snow and compression test it. yeehaw keepin my fingers crossed that its this injector and not a bad cyl pray to the honda gods for me

95tegbuild

0 psi in cyl 3 i lost

bonstokLS

Sorry to hear it.

Rebuild!!

95tegbuild

i was told it could be as simple as a valve adjustment????? and also it could be a burnt valve. im hoping to stay on the top end(meaning no lower end work) im keeping my fingers crossed its the valve adjustment but i rly wouldnt mind taking the head off to see what kinda motor im working with.

bonstokLS

Any update?

Also do you know about the CKF Bypass mentioned?

mark@silbernage

CKF Bypass:

http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/ckftrick.htm
http://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=309

How's the valve adjustment going?

Good luck!

95tegbuild

lol there was no valve adjustment that could save the motor...... i went with my gut and pulled the head to find a big whole in the exhaust valve.

Now im debating if i should buy this used head for 300 and put it all together or build it to my liking*(which is much more expensive)

when i bought the car i thought they failed to do the ckf bypass and thats why it ran like poo. it was already done and the vtec selenoid was changed so it was ready to rip just had a bad valve.
is there any pros/cons to beefing up the head on a stock lower end? and would i be safer just putting the stock head on with new gaskets and just taken it easy on her???

i mean 170 is plenty for me (which im confused about cause they say the jdm b18c is higher compression so is a usdm gsr head gonna mess with my compression?) so im not looking to make it faster but rather longevity.

thanks everyone

95tegbuild

OH and fyi there was no damage to pistons the cylinders are beautiful and the top of the pistons are nice. the bad cyl was the cleanest piston as weird as that sounds

mark@silbernage

Hole in the valve... so, just went to long with improper adjustment?

Is the seat recoverable? Or do you figure the machine work costs more than it would take to find a replacement somewhere.. ?

Sounds like you're making progress.

Good luck

95tegbuild

the head seams very usable to me i was thinking about beefing up the springs and maybe some skunk 2 valves.

at the same time this used head(assuming its a good head)for 300 would be the quickest cheapest way and in the mean time i could build up head with bad valve.

im just wondering if this is the right way to do it meaning is using a used head on a good block with new head gasket intake gasket and exhaust gasket gona make for a decent reliable motor(assuming i dont run it into the ground)