raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

so ive been driving and checking and driving and checking more. everything seems legit.
fresh rebuilt gsr with boltons and stock obd2b ecu
adjusted valves
new coil
plugs
NTK o2 sensor
no exhaust leaks
good compression
stock cams etc.
wiring been checked and rechecked
timing is on point
new tps and map sensor and iat sensor


problem

during really light throttle. car goes lean every time when taking off
around 2000-2500 rpm and Its very noticeable.afr goes above 16 for a second.

if I mash on it or give more throttle when taking off theres no lean spot.

**** is driving me insane. I even tried obd1 gsr ecu and it does same thing

wunfstgsr

If everything seems good as you say it wouldnt hurt to go get it tunned, spend some money on a obd1 ems and get it tuned.

I had a very similar experience when i rebuilt my Type R engine in my 99 obd2a integra it was a stock rebuild with bolt ons and stock 99 Type R ecu. It ran completly fine na with that ecu before the rebuild, then ran very rich on idle after the rebuild . I had a AEM ems from when it was boosted before i went back to all motor and my tunner just switched to that ems and he tuned it and it ran fine.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I can street tune it no problem
this is for emissions. since they gonna run it at exactly 3000 rpm if it goes that lean it will fail. just trying to see wtf lol ive been allover that sht like a monkey checking every lil deatail and still cant find why its doing it

what are the usual causes of that lean spot like that?

can it be caused by one cylinder compression leak. very small leak.
im gonna check again. but when I did cold compression one cylinder was lower slightly

I also adjusted fuel pressure from 45-54 psi and it has no effect on that.

can the ecu be damaged. or maybe some wiring is damaged that is not sending correct signal to ecu about fueling?

wunfstgsr

Well it wont pass emisions anyway if your using "bolt ons"., try using all stock parts. Im not sure about why your going lean there could be anything.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

The boltons are not very agressive
Aem sri 4-2-1 ebay header oem cat and 2 inch apexi exhaust

I adjusted the fpr with a wideband best i could.

blackeg

is this the gsr with type r internals running on a type r ecu? i know you were looking at doing that?

i was having this happen to me last year. it would buck and go lean for a split second occasionally. only at light throttle like highway cruising. turned out the wires going to the secondary o2 sensor were frayed a bit on the harness thats under the center console where the o2 plugs into and then goes up in the chassis. i guess from shoving the wires up there over the years it wore the sheathing away.

check your wires for some random **** like that

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

You're running lean when you take off for a split second? How is it at constant throttle @ 3000 rpm?

What are you measuring your a/f with?

I don't think a 1 second spike will affect your emissions results.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I never looked at the rear o2 sensor thanks ill check.
I just got a clean engine harness just gonna swap it and see

No this is the engine i want to do it to.
Now its bone stock gsr. And i want more power but need to be able to plug in a stock ecu for emissions
I never want to go tailpipe test on this again. Failed 6 times for all kinds of stupid bs.

I will have a tuned ecu formit but iy needs to run good enough to pass.
They got better equipment now at testing stations . Its harder to pass whwn ur sht isnt working right.
3 years ago anything would pass as long as it runs now its not same.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

The most reliable way to pass an emissions test is to have your engine as close to stock as possible and to be sure everything is in good working condition. Tuning AF and adjusting fuel pressure wont do a thing if you have a catalytic converter that isnt functioning correctly, for instance.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

there was a lot of things wrong and I don't even want to attempt to pass with tailpipe if I have an option of obd2
Its so much easier to pass with obd2 my other car was literally on its last leg and still passed with obd2 plugin guaranteed wouldn't pass tailpipe test

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

I cant understand what you're trying to say in your last post. It doesn't make any sense. OBD2 ecu's wont change the emissions output on a car vs. OBD1.

Whatever works for you, I suppose.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Obd2 plug in testing no tailpipe test. Easier to pass...

blackeg

they give u an option?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

obd2 cars only use plug in test in WA unless obd2 port is not functional
then its a tailpipe test and the emissions are more strict for obd2 cars than obd1
I passed with flying colors on my engine in the signature. and failed 6 times on a bone stock b16 with cat on same car with stock b16 ecu because once you do tailpipe test you have to continue tailpipe test until you pass.
then next time you can reset. its pretty retarded.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

did compression again just to be sure.

all perfect 225 220 225 225

spark plugs are whiter than ****. after idling for 10 minutes

next is engine harness swap maybe this one is just fucked up where I cant see it and not sending correct signal from one of the sensors

96cxt

I've seen this issue before. Stock ecu is getting incorrect readings from the O2 sensor. Even tho you aren't getting a cell for the O2 I have seen that the oxygen reading coming from the O2 sensor is incorrect. If you can swap out the 02s and see what it does after resetting the ecu.
Instead of changing the harness, unless you know for sure the harness you have is been hacked before.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I tried 2 o2 sensors and have a brand new ntk sensor in now. has no effect
I keep forgetting the head looks like it has a very minimal porting done. probably similar to type-r
just around the valve seat is smoothed out and casting flaws removed on intake and exhaust... I noticed when I was rebuilding it but never gave it a second thought

its a consistent lean spot at same rpm every time but when I had Neptune ecu with datalogging it show consistent graphs for every sensor no sudden dips or anything suspicious

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

what makes it suspicious is the fact that it does same at 43 psi idle fuel pressure(minimum spec) or at 54 psi idle fuel pressure( maximum spec in manual)

blackeg

it may take a few minutes, but have you tried running the o2 sensors right to the corresponding pins on the ecu? that would help troubleshoot anything in the wiring between the sensor and the ecu

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Also dont forget with OBD2, it takes time for it to register and adjust the information it receives from every sensor. Dont keep resetting the ecu and clear the codes. Instead, once you adjust or replace something, clean off ur spark plugs or run a new set, then drive your car for a while before determining if the problem still exists.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I mean can a minor port job have this effect?
what I don't get is the fact that it does same thing with different fuel pressure

it goes lean so I add fuel by increasing pressure and it still does it
that's what got me thinking its a sensor problem.

im gonna try to run it straight to ecu good idea

can it be a bad distributor?
its all clean inside and new cap rotor and coil

tamboo

may not solve your problem now but it will someday lol.

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Increasing fuel pressure in the increments you're doing doesn't add more fuel into the mixture. The difference between 43psi and 54psi is close to nothing, hence why you see no change in results.

Your issue is probably not ignition related. With a lean issue, you might want to start looking at your injectors, fuel filter, or maybe a intake manifold leak. Any restriction in the fuel delivery system will reduce the amount of fuel introduced to the mixture. The only way to increase fuel to the mixture is to run larger injectors or a higher capacity fuel pump.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

can it be the o2 heater circuit

theres no problem in open loop before it warms up

I know its working but if its shorting even a little bit would it affect anything.

I visually checked both front and read and they seem ok
I belive the front is getting ground and pover but I haven't checked the read one.
in scangauge they both seem to show correct voltage tho
and when engine leans out the primary o2 responds and changes voltage. its a brand new ntk sensor.
the rear is kinda iffy. the wires were exposed at one point I taped them up for now so they don't touch eachother

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Of course the o2 sensor voltage drops when the engine leans out. O2 sensors read around 0.45v when mixture is stoic, 0.9v when mixture is rich and lacking oxygen, and closer to 0.1v when running a lean mixture with more oxygen present.

Why would you have reason to check the rear o2 sensor for voltage if your scangauge tells you its present?

Seems like you're headed in the right direction. Problem should be fixed in no time.