As the topic says, seafoamed my motor thismorning, smoked like a B*otch for like 20 minutes. Now everything runs good as new. Changed my plugs too. Throttle responce is 10 times better and it idles a lot smoother.

 

I hope you changed/going to change your oil soon. That stuff breaks it down fast.

 

hey i heard about this..i've never done it, but how hard is this by the way? time?

 

Where do you buy Seafoam?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eh6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do you buy Seafoam?</TD></TR></TABLE>


hardware store? anywhere... we carry it at my gas station.

 

Well you go to the beach then ask the lifeguard if you can take some then he charges you $5 for every ounce you have. No I'm j/k. Good question I would also like to know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eh6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do you buy Seafoam?</TD></TR></TABLE>

every napa ive been to has it/seafoam

 

just did mine too it wasn't hard to do at all and definetly improved throttle response

1. buy seafoam 5.99
2.remove brake booster line from master cylinder
3. start car and slowly pour the seafoam down the line and have someone keeping the revs up for u (also use a funnel)
4. use about 2/3 of the bottle shut off the car pour the rest in through the oil cap then let the car sit for about 5-10 min
5. start the car its gonna smoke like hell and just rev it for a while eventually the smoke will go away

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by handa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey i heard about this..i've never done it, but how hard is this by the way? time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its pretty easy just take off the brake booster hose and suck up about 2/3 or the can. then put the last 1/3 in the crank-case. Let it idle and rev it up to get it circulating then turn the motor off for 10 minutes. start it back up and it will smoke so bad you think your motor is blown. Its all good though, jus cleaning the carbon

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eh6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do you buy Seafoam?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nappa Autoparts. Like 5.99 a can. some people do a can thru the motor and a can in the gas tank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96MidoriHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just did mine too it wasn't hard to do at all and definetly improved throttle response

1. buy seafoam 5.99
2.remove brake booster line from master cylinder
3. start car and slowly pour the seafoam down the line and have someone keeping the revs up for u (also use a funnel)
4. use about 2/3 of the bottle shut off the car pour the rest in through the oil cap then let the car sit for about 5-10 min
5. start the car its gonna smoke like hell and just rev it for a while eventually the smoke will go away
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicHatchback14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its pretty easy just take off the brake booster hose and suck up about 2/3 or the can. then put the last 1/3 in the crank-case. Let it idle and rev it up to get it circulating then turn the motor off for 10 minutes. start it back up and it will smoke so bad you think your motor is blown. Its all good though, jus cleaning the carbon</TD></TR></TABLE>

awesome...i'll be doing this soon. thanks!

 

EVERYONE who does this. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE remember to change your oil soon after it has been done. Otherwise you will be driving with very thin oil in your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHC4life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EVERYONE who does this. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE remember to change your oil soon after it has been done. Otherwise you will be driving with very thin oil in your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96MidoriHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>
word!

 

I thought it was 1/3 brake booster, 1/3 gas tank, and 1/3 motor?

 

you could do that if you like. anything that floats your boat. no real requirements

 

There was a write up posted some time ago about how to do this. Im sure if you searched it will show up. I would do it but Im lazy and doing homework.

 

well i did it the way me and civichatchback14 posted and it worked great so im stickin with that

 

I have been told that this is a bad thing to do. And I will explain as to why. This is kind of like pouring diesel fuel in the oil cap on a older chevy or ford. It cleans the inside of the engine out really well, BUT what they dont mention to you is that the diesel fuel and probably the SEAFOAM clean out the lubricants as well. What I mean by that is that the Cam bearings, Rod Bearings, Main bearings all have a special lubricant that the factory puts on there when they assemble the engine. And when you do a engine flush like this it takes the lubricants out. Now you maybe thinking well when i change my oil wouldn't this do the same thing? Well not really because the chemicals in the oil are to help coat and lubricate. And the chemicals in the seafoam has a sole purpose to clean and break all this stuff loose. I have never tried this seafoam stuff so I cant say anything bad about them. But everthing I have ever seen that does clean out your engine does the same type of thing. Just my .02 cents

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evil_Wizard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> BUT what they dont mention to you is that the diesel fuel and probably the SEAFOAM clean out the lubricants as well. What I mean by that is that the Cam bearings, Rod Bearings, Main bearings all have a special lubricant that the factory puts on there when they assemble the engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, there is special assembly lube used when putting an engine together. The only purpose this serves is to protect the engine on startup, until the motor circulates oil up to there. It doesn't stay there permanantly, and is drained out on the first oil change along with the oil; since the oil lubes all those parts after the pump builds up pressure.

You won't have a problem using seafoam. I've used it every 30K on my motor, and the internals look fresh as new, and compression is near factory spec across the board (I have 100K on there now). Just change the oil when it's done to get the carbon and detergent out, and you'll be fine.

 

i've always been a firm believer that additives/cleaners in your gas-tank, oil, whatever are bad ideas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eh6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where do you buy Seafoam?</TD></TR></TABLE>

From the horse's mouth, so to speak.

SeaFoam Website: http://www.seafoamsales.com/
Where to get SeaFoam: http://www.seafoamsales.com/buy.htm
How to use SeaFoam: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

I have no association with SeaFoam, have never used the product, and make no claims, positive or negative, about the product.

Enjoy!

 

Im having a bogging issue it seems with my cat, will this help? i keep getting a rotten egg smell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've always been a firm believer that additives/cleaners in your gas-tank, oil, whatever are bad ideas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i used to be a believer of this as well, but after reading many posts and seeing many pictures of how auto-rx worked, i am a firm believe in auto-rx.... not to knock seafoam, but the reason i like auto-rx as opposed to seafoam is because it doesn't seem to aggressively clean your vehicle instantly.. something that will thin out an oil on a single application may not be so good to seals, gaskets and soforth.. i like how auto-rx works quietly in the background as you drive and isn't so harsh, and doesn't change the properties of the oil itself.. black magic indeed...

 

Anybody ever tried this "PERSONALLY" on a forced induction car? I read the thread a while ago in FI section, but my questions weren't really answered. I have about 5 vacuum lines running off my brake booster line. STill good to disconnect and run this through the motor? Also, doesn't seem like it would be too nice to turbo seals etc with this stuff running through. Anybody had any experience with it once turbo?

 

Isn't that stuff harsh on your O2 sensor and CAT?