DeDonDeRosa

iTrader: (1)

ok im about to install my rear sway bar on my DC integra and the instructions tell me that i need to drill holes and things like that but then i found this online


http://hadamotorsport.com/tech....html SWAY BAR INSTALLATION!!!!!!!

BUT THEY DIDNT DRILL OR ANYTHING WHICH SHOULD I GO BY

ANYONE INSTALL THIS SWAYBAR ON THERE CAR ??? PLEASE HELP AND HOW TO

garados

iTrader: (3)

I had to drill holes for mine, but others didn't have to. I'd see if it does have to be drilled by putting the d-bracket against the stock bracket and see if the holes line up. If they do, then you're good to go. If not, it'll take just a little bit longer to finish the installation. It wasn't too hard to drill, just make sure you drill in the right spots

DeDonDeRosa

iTrader: (1)

bump anyone

JUN1OR

I am faced with the same predicament. I lined them up and they didn't match.
I'm going to bring out the drill in t minus 5 minutes.

Know whats even more funny is the fact that my other browser window has that same site you had open.

http://www.hadamotorsport.com/....html

lucky basturds!

Good luck d00d.

-Junior-

DeDonDeRosa

iTrader: (1)

bump

G-bonic

i didnt drill mine i just stole a 1 1/2 bolts from home depot and thats it.....coz the holes that u suppose to drill has threads on it so i didnt make it bigger but its all up to u...

Greenery18

Stock_LS what bolts are those exactly? Do I need nuts as well, or is there one already?

G-bonic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greenery18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock_LS what bolts are those exactly? Do I need nuts as well, or is there one already?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i believe its 1 1/2 inches long and 6mm thick metric but im not really sure, jus try out some junk bolts and youll find out...

JUN1OR

Stayed up until 4:15am last night to finish. ouch. I will post pics up later today.

I thought about using the existing holes, but they are tiny. I did not want to chance it with the amount of strain applied to most suspension components.

I used a large drill bit and drilled the holes out. It took about an extra hour, but it was WELL worth it. That bar is now rock solid on there. I mean ROCK solid.

Anyway, it's a bit tricky, but you have to use the locknuts supplied from S/T if you are drilling. You have to fish the bolt in there, but with a needlenose and some patience, everything will come into place. You will also have to shave off some material from the abs brackets, if you have abs that is. Pictures will be up soon.

When I removed the old sway bar, the endlink bolts snapped off (both of them). But that is ok, since the S/T bar doesn't mount using the original location, THANK GOD.

Anyway, it will be easier to see with my pics. I'll try to get them up tonight.

Overall, I am dissappointed in the S/T bar because of the installation troubles, but once you have the hard work done, for less understeer.

I thought the *** end was going to kick out last night on my initial testdrive.

-Junior-

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

eh I don't like the ST swaybar. I don't like those brackets you attach to the bottom shock bolt for their endlinks, the fact that it's only 19mm, and you have to do alot of drilling. IMHO the OEM ITR rear bar is a much better choice, considering you can get everything you need for under $100, it uses stock endlinks on the stock endlink bolts, and it's 22mm.

DeDonDeRosa

iTrader: (1)

ITR 22mm Sway bar on LS-GSR= TORN SUBFRAME= BAD NO GOOD!!!

NightRiderS2K

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeDonDeRosa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR 22mm Sway bar on LS-GSR= TORN SUBFRAME= BAD NO GOOD!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Says who?

I've had mine for years..

Only problem I have is the damn ABS lines rub when the suspension is loaded, causing my ABS light to go off.

And I thought it's because I have ITR rear LCAs and my existing lines do not line up with the mounting holes on 'em. I know most people here have the same problem. And I know there's a bunch of threads on it. I just haven't gotten around to fixing mine.

For the OE 22mm ITR sway. BSQ
Beaks too, but I have no experience

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Mine used to rub the metal ABS wire brackets, but didn't cause any problems w/ the system.

Recently I switched from BSQ to Beaks, which have thicker plates, which pushed the bar out slightly so that it doesn't touch the ABS brackets anymore.

NightRiderS2K

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine used to rub the metal ABS wire brackets, but didn't cause any problems w/ the system.

Recently I switched from BSQ to Beaks, which have thicker plates, which pushed the bar out slightly so that it doesn't touch the ABS brackets anymore. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you think that making the plates [BSQ] thicker by:

a) adding some washers or
b) adding more replicated plates

will be a good idea?

JUN1OR

Here are the images from my install as promised. I hope this helps all you S/T rear bar owners that have been lazy and didn't want to drill into your subframe!!!

This is more or less supplemental information to the following website:
http://hadamotorsport.com/tech....html

Installation time should be considerably reduced if you follow both of these how-to's.


Here goes:
Application: 1994-1997(98-01?) integra coupe,sedan.
Item: Suspension Techniques Rear Sway bar.
Applies to: All the unlucky guys/gals that didn' have the holes perfectly line up for installation...

First off, here is a healthy image of some of the tools that are helpful in completing this job in a timely manner.


You can see a rotozip, drill, molybedenum grease, pb b'laster, breaker bar, 15, 17, 10mm sockets, various other tools.


After your car is secured safely on ramps, (the suspension must be loaded, so don't use jackstands) remove the stock bar and start by removing the abs brackets from the subframe. Dremel/rotozip the one bolt hole off as shown above. Trial and error my friend, trial and error...



Smoothen out any burrs in the bracket. Remember, this is your abs we're working with!



Here are the stock holes you are going to want to drill out. It requires a large size bit, so either buy a good split point/self centering bit, or go to dad's house and start diggin...



You will notice that the stock holes are a bit misaligned. They are not 100% vertical. Try, if at all feasible, to drill the holes closest to the same vertical plane so mounting is easier. You'll know what I mean when you line it up down there.



Here is a picture of the holes drilled out. There may be peices of the welded nut on the reverse side. If you can get them out, do it, if not, no biggie. I couldn't get them out.


Don't forget the grease that they supplied with the bar. It will cause a squeek free ride. You will have to regularly grease these poly bushings as they dry up over time and can get very annoying... I didn't have the oem grease from S/T, so I used molybedenum spray, specifically, track and cable lube. It sprays on thin, but thickens considerably. Also this stuff is a beotch to get off your hands and clothes, so get gloves.


Next you will have to fish either the bolt or the nut into the rather tiny subframe opening on the underside. I chose to fish a bolt in there with a needlenose. The upper bolt is tricky, so get creative.



I tried duct taping a nut to a box end wrech, but it didn't work too well...



Once the bolts, nuts and washers are installed, tighten the bolts per honda oem spec, or S/T spec, if supplied. I looked in my helms and it's not too much, so be carefull, and DOUBLE CHECK AFTER A WEEK OR TWO!



Here is the Suspension Techniques rear swaybar for the Integra fully installed. I obviously missed the part about tightening the endlinks that connect to the strut fork, but you can figure that out yourself. Read the link in the original post regarding this part.

And now for the last and final step:



Grab a Newcastle Brown Ale, you earned it. Oh, and watch out for that oversteer.

-Junior-