hello all.. i need help checking if an integra ls distributor i have its good.. its out of the car so i want to make sure it works.. i went on a bought a meter to check it, but i have never used one of this things before so i need help. where to i position the **** so i can check the terminals?? thanks alot

here is the pic of the meter :

 

DCV 20V

DCV = dc current direct current = cars, batteries, etc.

ACV = ac curren alternating current = house, 120V, etc.


make sure on your meter to always put it on the higher setting. to make sure you dont burn your meter out.

so if it was me, id first put it on 200, and when i get a reading that its way below , id switch it to 20.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DCV 20V

DCV = dc current direct current = cars, batteries, etc.

ACV = ac curren alternating current = house, 120V, etc.


make sure on your meter to always put it on the higher setting. to make sure you dont burn your meter out.

so if it was me, id first put it on 200, and when i get a reading that its way below , id switch it to 20.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but i want to check the resistance.. do i still use DCV??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but i want to check the resistance.. do i still use DCV??</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, use the ohm function.

the part that looks like a headphone symbol.

 

yeah i did that.. just wasnt sure i was doin it right.. i get 00.0 from the 2 terminals (A and B).. and i get 16.1 from (A to tower nipple wutever u wanna call ot of the coil.) so that means that it doesnt work right??

 

0 means infinite flow of electricity, no block , free flow.

the higher the number the less path electricity has to travel. (more resistance)

i also have no idea about what your checking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">0 means infinite flow of electricity, no block , free flow.

the higher the number the less path electricity has to travel. (more resistance)

i also have no idea about what your checking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im cheking the ingnition coil.. A with B .. then A with C

 

Also u want to hook up the leads like this: the black cable goes to the input "COM" on the Multimeter. The red one goes to the terminal labeled "V (ohm symbol-the headphone looking thingy) mA". it doesnt matter if u switch the red and black cabel...cuz after all it's just a cable. U use the terminal "10ADC" when ur measuring a device with high current.

The primary resistance from terminals A and B should be from 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. U will have to turn the dial on the multimeter to the point labeled 200 ohms in order to check this.
From terminals A to the coil (B) it should be from 12.8K to 19.2K ohms. U will need to set the multimeter to the 20K point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also u want to hook up the leads like this: the black cable goes to the input "COM" on the Multimeter. The red one goes to the terminal labeled "V (ohm symbol-the headphone looking thingy) mA". it doesnt matter if u switch the red and black cabel...cuz after all it's just a cable. U use the terminal "10ADC" when ur measuring a device with high current.

The primary resistance from terminals A and B should be from 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. U will have to turn the dial on the multimeter to the point labeled 200 ohms in order to check this.
From terminals A to the coil (B) it should be from 12.8K to 19.2K ohms. U will need to set the multimeter to the 20K point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, i did this and i got the following..

A to B



A to C (tower)




i take it since i got a 1.0 from A to B, that this dist. its not good right??

 

anyone??

 

one last try.. anyone knows ??

 

What year and modelis the car? Basically you are checking primary and secondary coil resitance. The numbers you show look like you have a good coil. CHeck the engine electrical section in your repair manual and it should specify the correct resistance specification. If you are in that range then you have a good coil.

 

Ok, one other thing, put the meter on the lowest scale for resistance. I think it was 200 ohm. Then touch the 2 probes together. If the meter is correctly calibrated you should get 0. If it is reading a value, be sure to subtract this value form the 1 ohm you read. MAke sense ? My guess is that 1 ohm is good. Also check your manual for tolerance variation of the meter. ANyway, you know you have continuity, so you know you don't have a burned out coil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisnova &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What year and modelis the car? Basically you are checking primary and secondary coil resitance. The numbers you show look like you have a good coil. CHeck the engine electrical section in your repair manual and it should specify the correct resistance specification. If you are in that range then you have a good coil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

year i dont know.. all i know its an obd1 ls dist.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisnova &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, one other thing, put the meter on the lowest scale for resistance. I think it was 200 ohm. Then touch the 2 probes together. If the meter is correctly calibrated you should get 0. If it is reading a value, be sure to subtract this value form the 1 ohm you read. MAke sense ? My guess is that 1 ohm is good. Also check your manual for tolerance variation of the meter. ANyway, you know you have continuity, so you know you don't have a burned out coil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and i didnt get any of this lol

all i want to know if this dist. its good..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

year i dont know.. all i know its an obd1 ls dist.

and i didnt get any of this lol

all i want to know if this dist. its good..

</TD></TR></TABLE>


You need the year and model of the car in order to look up the primary and secondary winding resistances in your coil, OK Go out and buy a shop manual so you know what values are good or bad. SHop manuals are $15 at Autozone. It willbe one of the best investments you will make in your life!

You need to verify if the meter is correctly calibrated by touching the probes together while it is set to resistance or Ohm scale. This is absolutely important when reading small resistance readings like 1 Ohm., If you don't do this you don't really know if you are trully reading 1 Ohm, got it? Then you won'tknow if the distributor is good or bad because you don't know if the number you are reading is correct.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisnova &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need the year and model of the car in order to look up the primary and secondary winding resistances in your coil, OK Go out and buy a shop manual so you know what values are good or bad. SHop manuals are $15 at Autozone. It willbe one of the best investments you will make in your life!

You need to verify if the meter is correctly calibrated by touching the probes together while it is set to resistance or Ohm scale. This is absolutely important when reading small resistance readings like 1 Ohm., If you don't do this you don't really know if you are trully reading 1 Ohm, got it? Then you won'tknow if the distributor is good or bad because you don't know if the number you are reading is correct.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm ok i think if you look a few post up. i was told the readings that i was supposed to get.. plus the positions of the **** on my meter.. i did that and i posted pics..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The primary resistance from terminals A and B should be from 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. U will have to turn the dial on the multimeter to the point labeled 200 ohms in order to check this.
From terminals A to the coil (B) it should be from 12.8K to 19.2K ohms. U will need to set the multimeter to the 20K point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

from A to B im supposed to get a reading between .6 and .8 and i get 1.. so what does that mean..

reading from A to C looks good .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmm ok i think if you look a few post up. i was told the readings that i was supposed to get.. plus the positions of the **** on my meter.. i did that and i posted pics..


from A to B im supposed to get a reading between .6 and .8 and i get 1.. so what does that mean..

reading from A to C looks good .

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, saw your post with the pics and reading. The point I was trying to make,was with a reading of 1 ohm and valid readings of .6-.8 ohms, you are probably getting a good reading because there is some minute resistance in the meter. But the only way you will know is to touch the leads together in the same resistance scale you were reading the 1 ohm from to determine if there is already bias resistance. Subtract that number from 1 ohm to get the valid reading. I'm guessing that 1 ohm is probably a good reading, but you need to do this yourself to know because all meters have some bias resistance usually. Do you understand this? I realize you are new to using multimeters and calibration of them.

 

OK, if the coil checks out OK, then check all your electrical connections. Using fine sandpaper sand any suspect connector a LITTLE. If you see and corrosion remove it with super fine or emory clothe paper. Double check your wire connections and spark plug connections and condition of your plugs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisnova &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, if the coil checks out OK, then check all your electrical connections. Using fine sandpaper sand any suspect connector a LITTLE. If you see and corrosion remove it with super fine or emory clothe paper. Double check your wire connections and spark plug connections and condition of your plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i guess we are not understanding ourselfs very well.. all i want to know if this distributor is good.. no i dont have an integra so i cant go outside and check if its good. this item was given to me by a friend. and i have no use for it. so i want to make sure it works before i sell it.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The primary resistance from terminals A and B should be from 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. U will have to turn the dial on the multimeter to the point labeled 200 ohms in order to check this..</TD></TR></TABLE>

now here is were i dont understand the reading i get. it should be between .6 and .8 and i get a 1 .. what does that mean?

 

Set the meter for 200 ohms, & touch the meter probes directly to each other. It might read 0.3 or something. That's the resistance of the probes themselves. Subtract that from the 1.0 ohm that you measured, & maybe that means your reading is good.

But there other tests for the coil & the rest of the distributor, you can't do with that meter. Even though the resistance is good, the insulation might break down at the high voltages during operation. There's a different kind of meter (Megger) that can test it.

Then there's the other sensors down in the distributor (CKP, CYP, TDC). You can't completely test them with an ohm-meter. Easiest way is for you to find somebody with an integra & try it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Set the meter for 200 ohms, & touch the meter probes directly to each other. It might read 0.3 or something. That's the resistance of the probes themselves. Subtract that from the 1.0 ohm that you measured, & maybe that means your reading is good.

But there other tests for the coil & the rest of the distributor, you can't do with that meter. Even though the resistance is good, the insulation might break down at the high voltages during operation. There's a different kind of meter (Megger) that can test it.

Then there's the other sensors down in the distributor (CKP, CYP, TDC). You can't completely test them with an ohm-meter. Easiest way is for you to find somebody with an integra & try it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

kool.. thanks alot