anyone?

 

What do you need to know.. A degree wheel and A dial indicator and base is all that needed.. And a metal coat hanger to hack up..lol Diy baby

 

i did. u need to know ur cams centerline then u can do it. my cams centerlines are 110 degrees. even after my milling of my head, decking of my block my cams were "degreed" almost at 0,0 on both cam gears.

 

dang..any writeups on how too use em?they sound pretty nessecary

 

Basically every cam mfg. has the write up in their catalogues. Dema Elgin of Elgin cams used to have the best along Isky. Your question should have been "who does not degree-in there cams when installing new ones?".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Basically every cam mfg. has the write up in their catalogues. Dema Elgin of Elgin cams used to have the best along Isky. Your question should have been "who does not degree-in there cams when installing new ones?".</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Most people dyno-tune the cam timing (along with fuel & ignition) for optimum power with their particular setup, rather than relying on standardized degree figures.

 

Most people are wrong then, if they do not know what they are starting with. Each mfg. gives you a starting point, then tune to your application.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people are wrong then, if they do not know what they are starting with. Each mfg. gives you a starting point, then tune to your application.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure what you're getting at. Starting at 0,0, a competent tuner shouldn't have any problem achieving a desired/optimum power curve via dyno-tuning, regardless of the cams being used. The only concerns would be the available valve-to-piston clearances at various degrees of adjustment, which should be pre-determined by claying if clearances are expected to be tight.

 

a friend of mine degreed his cams and that **** worked where ever he set the cam gears too thats where the engine made the most power

 

0,0 on the cam gears do not mean the cams are where the Mfg. wants them (or an engine builder), was the head surfaced, block surfaced, different gears, different cams, how much play was in the cam keys, how much play in the crank pulley key, etc. ? I think that only 1 or possibly 2, sets of new cams, gears, eng, that I have done ever came in in at 0,0 and were the specs I wanted to start with. Those were Skunk2 stage1. Crower changed there specs a few years ago on the 403's after customer feedback. Did thy change the key ways, no idea. Every builder has an idea of where the timing should be after seeing the opening and closing events of the cams, then that gives the tuner a + or - 2 degrees to get the application correct, not an all day session to get the cams right.

 

so if u get a degree wheel..how exactly do you go about installing and using one?

 

You install it on the crankshaft snout.. Then you find true tdc with a dial indicator. then you can make a pointer that goes to the zero mark on the wheel out of a old metal coat hanger. Bolt it to a emty hole on the block and bend the hanger to point at zero. Thats your zero ref point. Be careful not to disturb your pointer from that point on. Now setup the dial indicator on the valve retainer and start to turn it and set the cam gears to acheive the valve opening to whatever spec you have on the cams.

 

hmmmm sounds complicated

 

It's not really. i'm bad at explaining things... you just need to find true tdc and mark it for a starting point, then you need to mounnt a dial indicator on a base fixed to the head so it doesnt move, you zero it out on the top of the retainer with the crank at tdc, then rotate the crank. Your valves will begin to open at a certain degree which you will see on the dial indicator, your pointer you made out of the coat hanger will read a certain degree on the wheel now. Adjust the cam gear so the valve opens at the proper degree the cams are supposed to.. Call your cam manufacturer for those #'s.. i hope this helps somewhat.. And I hope I'm correct..lol

 

so what happens if u dont use this and just install cams the regular way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what happens if u dont use this and just install cams the regular way? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Depeneding on your set-up, you could destroy your motor.most off shelf products wont be an issue, but with jun4's Boom...lol
You will be doing it the way 99% of the people here do it..lol I have never even actually done it on my motor. But will on anything I do from now on.

 

ohh cool..i got dynamic spec b's

 

http://www.webcamshafts.com/degreeing.html

 

man i need some pics.. my head is overloaded i cant comprehend this.

 

are you supposed to set the valve lash after you do this?
if you are tuning it on a dyno does this just save you time knowing where 0, 0 is?
or is it to get both cams sync'ed togethers accurately?

 

You are supposed to set valve lash before you degree the cams.

I ordered the Goodson degree wheel because it allows for adjustments independent of the base piece. However, it doesn't quite fit a Honda crank without some work. I have a lathe, and it made quick work of that problem. 1 hour and a bit of machined aluminum later, I had a couple of pieces that allowed me to mount the degree wheel using a Euro R crank pulley and Honda crank pulley tool to turn the crank without disturbing the degree wheel.

 

this is very interesting... a "how to" with pics would be nice.

 

comp cams sells a video. i dont know how accurate it would be when trying it on a honda.. but im sure itd explain the basic idea of whats going on.. if i buy it ill capture it and post up a vid to watch

 

This is copied from my post over at PO.com.

I made the two pieces on the left. The red adapters came with the degree wheel. They were worthless for my purpose, so I machined one that fit perfect out of aluminum. That's the piece on the far left. The other big piece is a spacer that spaces the degree wheel out from the crank pulley.


Here's a closer look at the parts I made.


Here's my adapter with the mount for the degree wheel and the 16x1.5 100mm bolt I purchased at a local metric supply house.


Here's the same piece with the spacer.


Here it is partially assembled (the degree wheel is missing).


And all together:


You might notice that it's spaced out too far. I machined off 1/2" or so after these pics were taken. I'm thinking of getting a longer bolt and machining a longer spacer so that I can use this with a stock H22 crank pulley too.