I have a 91 dx civic for auto xing. I have heared that some people have welded 2 sway bars together. How do the 2 sway bars contect to the frame mounts? Thanxs

 

Dude just go with the type-r bar in the back ,I have a 89 civic and use that bar in the back with no front bar.It works great ,I'm in Toronto where are you?

 

A Type R rear sway bar? Please elaborate.. hehe...

Dan

 

I use a type-r rear swaybar on my 89 civic with NO front bar. Just take your time bolting it on and everything will be fine. I bolted it right thorugh the cross member and it has stayed there for 3 years and countless track time. Here is a bad pic
http://www.geocities.com/quebecicestorm/smalla1.html

 

I utilize the same setup on my 93 Civic DX. FANTASTIC!

89CivicDX... You failed to mention that a reinforcement kit (I use Beaks' Kit, approx $60 or so US) would be necessary to prevent this powerful bar from pulling apart the subframe. Also, Integra (non-TypeR) lower control arms will be needed in order for this swap to work as most 4th gen. Civics had no rear bar to begin with. All told, expect to spend around $225 US to do this right. I used fresh hardware, stainless steel washers and bolts, urethane body mount bushings, OEM end links... you get the picture.

Anthony "Mario" Crea

 

I don't use a beaks kit but I did build my own from my performance parts supplier HOME DEPOT using plats and bolts etc.As well that was 3 years ago, I don't even think there was such a thing as a "BEAKS KIT". On my bar the bolts actually go from the back of the cross member to the front (gas-tank side), with aluiminum plates on both sides.

You don't have to use integra control arms just because the base 4th gens didn't come with a rear bar. My picture is crappy but you can probaly make out the clamps on the lower control arms these are just steel plates clamped onto the control arms with end link bolts drilled. These actually work better as you can move endlink placement farther out towards the shocks.

Using the stock honda end link is OK BUT if you can get your self some rod-end endlinks they are much more responsive as the there is no compliance with soft rubber bushings.Also they allow pushing end-link place ment about 1/2 inch further out toward the shock.You can't really push anything out though unless you have sliding brackets though.

Also to get rid of even more compliance you can get rid of the endlink rubber bushings in the ends of the swaybar by puting Skateboard wheel bearings in the ends.Slight grinding is required but they fit nicely.

too bad i don't have a digi cam.

Again this has seen the track a lot with no problems, the BEAKS kit is good but if you know how to use a saw and a drill you can make the same thing for $10 canadian(which is like 1 cent american )

 

hey thanxs for the tips! i live 20 minutes from Niagara Falls!if you have icq, email me your number and we could talk more! See ya