ok guys....

when cold, the car will start up just fine, idle good, even drives great, but then when it gets warm it will just flat out die. then i cant start it again. i have to wait like 2 minutes or so and let it cool off i suppose, but after those approx.2mins, the car will start up again, run for a few, and die.

oh. and code 15. ignition ouput control or something like that...
(i already replace the ICM and the COIL). still same thing.

any ideas?

 

check the ignitor z. hope that helps

 

Your main relay or ignition switch is croaking. You can inspect the back side of the ignition switch and see if any of the solder connections look bad. If not, then it's most likely the main relay.

brian g

 

ok.. update:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cjsls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the ignitor z. hope that helps

</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry cj thats not it. replaced everything on distributor & still having same symptoms.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your main relay or ignition switch is croaking. You can inspect the back side of the ignition switch and see if any of the solder connections look bad. If not, then it's most likely the main relay.

brian g</TD></TR></TABLE>
brian g, the ignition switch on the back side of the key hole? under the steering column? i looked at those solders. they look good.

now what main relay? the PGM-FI main relay? how do i check it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
now what main relay? the PGM-FI main relay? how do i check it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes that one. See if you have power out to the fuel pump or injectors when the car quits. Or replace it with a borrowed one next time your car quits.

brian g

 

ok... in my helms book, it says the main relay is behind the glove box, and the fuse for it (under dash) is #13/15 amps. is there a way to test it. like with a circuit tester? or what?....

oh and how is that connected to my code 15/ (ignition output signal)????

 

your problem is def your main relay...... I had the same **** happen 2 weeks ago with exactly the same syntoms.

your relay in tucked under the dash on the drivers side and looks like this.

 

fastwanabe, is that expensive?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fastwanabe, is that expensive?</TD></TR></TABLE>not @ all, it was like 42 from the dealer.

 

ok... pulled one off my friends 99si, (i've got 99ex) they looked identical though. swapped em out. still did the same thing...

any more ideas?

this F*kin sux!!!!!!


Modified by hondaZvic at 3:21 PM 7/5/2004

 

When the car stops, what is no longer functioning, fuel or spark?

brian g

 

when the car stops, spark is out.

 

When it stops next time check to see if you have coil power, which may indicate a bad ignition switch. If you have coil power then see if you can borrow an ECU to try.

brian g

 

well i know the coils are good.
i've tried 2 different ones. both react the same...

and i checked the ignition switch for continuity. came out good.

u really think the ecu might be bad?

 

You misunderstand, I want to know if the coil is getting 12 volts at the big thick black/yellow wire when the car quits. I'm trying to narrow down the possibilities.

brian g

 

ohhhhhh ok.
thanks brian.

will find out tomorrow

 

Keep me posted..

 

sounds like the ignition module...

 

it could be your magnitic pickups in the distributor...mine was the ignitor but you changed that out so....hmmmmmm

 

brian, ---------------------- this is all on a jdm obd1 dizzy for h22


with the ignition on:
-the black/yellow wire has 12v. when disconnected outside the dizzy.

-when connected. it reads 137ish MV. millivolts.

-we disconnected the black/yellow wire from the icm. and the wire still has 12v., but when connected to the icm, it goes down to 137mv.

-we tried 3 different icms:
=1 got 137mv,
=1 got 178mv,
=1 got .666volts (this was an obd2 icm)

-i find it hard to believe that all 3 icm's could be bad, because the last 2 worked when they were taken off of the other cars.

-the little black boxes inside the dizzy, there is 1 on the top and 2 in the bottom under that plate. what are these? the tdc sensor, ckp sensor, and cyp sensor? could these be the problem maybe?

oh. and now the car wont start at all. whatever was going bad, HAS GONE BAD.

 

There is a sequence for testing the ICM, I don't have it at home and I leave for vacation 6am tomorrow


Just for grins, do you have an ECU you can plug in and test?

brian g

 

nope.

 

I had the same exact prob from the sound of it. I have the same motor in my hatch. For me it was this; check your idle, sometimes when your throtle cable gets real hot it "stretches" and wont pull enough rpms to keep the motor runnin. Try adjusting your throtle cable to about 900(when the motor is hot) and you can also try adjusting your tps screw. Hope that helps!

 

oh yeah.. i've been working on that... my idle is or WAS actually pretty good now... but now if i could only get the car to start?..... arrrrrrrrrrr

 

Okay a few things..

Make sure that the connectors to the ICM are secure. Clamp them down again if you have to and then try again... Check plugs, wires, and coil. If the car is cranking over and your getting gas then its something up with your ignition system.. And/or ECU..