we are running a new setup and its a 95 mil crank but we are getting extreme pressure in the case! we have two vents one in the back of the block and one in the valve cover.
both blocks that we done this combo happened to be b18b motor with no charcol canisters im going to make the upper hose larger and add another to the back of the block.

is a vaccum pump our answer or of course the dry sump but 2600$ price tag sucks any one have an idea for a cheap fix?

 

How much pressure? How is it venting?

 

puke tank greddy but i think it sucks fills up to fast

 

A Train---We have this problem with a couple of our cars, our solution was to have two larger outlets in the valve cover. You can kinda see them in my avatar. The tank does fill up quick, but from what I understand, its hard to keep oil in these engines. Doing this has worked for us.

 

not honda but we have similar problems. 92.8mm crank is OK but our 95.5 crank is way worse.
Is there any way you can build a baffle box coming out of the block vents?

 

Have you tried using a pan vac system? there are other options out there, we are experimenting, with electric vacuum pumps, on our new engine. Might be something to look into, but you do not have to speend $2000!!!!

 

thanks for all the info guys keep it coming!!!!!

 

Endyn says that you cannot mix valve cover breathers with back of the block breathers. Must use seperate boxes. You also need an anti-siphon tube on the back of the breathers.
We never had this problem until switching to alcohol as a fuel. Now we fill up the breather box with oil.

 

Definitely go to a couple of large size lines such as -12 AN. The larger lines will slow the air velocity exiting the motor and will tend to not pull as much oil with it. Our company as well as others also make baffeled breather tubes which will help as well. Oil does not like to turn corners with the air so baffeling is a big help. Also make sure you set your catch can as high as possible so when the air slows the oil will run back to the motor.

Mike Morten
Peterson Fluid Systems

 

thans again guys i dont know what i'd do w/o HT you guy have givin our program a great help and its cool to use the forums for more than jus BSin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CompressionFed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A Train---We have this problem with a couple of our cars, our solution was to have two larger outlets in the valve cover. You can kinda see them in my avatar. The tank does fill up quick, but from what I understand, its hard to keep oil in these engines. Doing this has worked for us.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does it only fill only under high throttle or all the time?

 

Ive been having the same issue with the z10 catch can i have. Make one pass and theres oil every where. I have the lines feeding off the two ports on the back of the block(b20). Any of you guys have any suggestions i tried a return line line the endyn one and nothing. Dont know what to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E Town DSM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been having the same issue with the z10 catch can i have. Make one pass and theres oil every where. I have the lines feeding off the two ports on the back of the block(b20). Any of you guys have any suggestions i tried a return line line the endyn one and nothing. Dont know what to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had that problem too with the endyn kit. i would make a pass and oil would be blowing out the bottom of the filter. basically like peterson said i placed it as high as i could on the firewall and looked over the notes in the diagram making sure the hoses were positioned correctly especially the drain. havent had a problem with it since.
-Roger

 

On my car, it only fills under full throttle conditions.

 

oh yeah, on my setup it is 1/3 full on a good pass, but over 1/2 full on a tire shredding 3rd 4th gear pass .... so its RPM related especially when youre dealing with big cranks

 

I notice mine fills more with the 2 step use.

 

i did two different contaners and added some extra venting through the top going back to dyno tonight to see if we can more than just a base! still leaking at the bottom of the oil pan though!

 

Alot of people are using those fitting in the back of the block they get from honda. What people do not realize is that while the crank case builds pressure its more than atmospheric while outside it is atmospheric. This causes a pressure difference and will siphonate causing all the oil to be sucked out of the engine. This is why you have so much oil in your catch can. The only person who knew this was endyn and that is why they have the Anti-siphon tube on their block fittings. Neither the honda fittings nor does the fittings from the Z10 kit has this and that is why they have oil being sucked out of the engine.

art..

 

Thanks for the tip art. So im guessing if i got the endyn fittings everything should be gravy. Another question is the endyn can internally baffled?

 

Yes, baffled.

 

What pisses me off, is that i ordered an endyn one which was on back order then. So i opted for the z10 since i was in need of one to get the car out. Guess ill just have to get the endyn one.

 

i could fix it for you but it will cost you 900.00 dollars

 

chad i could fix it for you but then i would have kill you hAHAHA.WE HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH OURS CLOYSE JR

 

I think I need to explain the use of a catch can /breather tank, and why you are seeing the amount of oil you are getting in the can. The air or as some people have said higher pressure that gets into the lower crankcase can only come from one place and that is the piston rings. An engine with good seal will leak about 6-7 cfm at wide open throttle under max load.This amount of leakage is considered good for most race engines ,I have seen engines that leak less and ones that leak more,more is bad.And these are the ones that fill the catch cans ,why??Because the amount of air leaking into the bottom end is greater than the crankcase volume and as the engine runs it continues to build ,this now produces the higher pressure that wants to go to the lower pressure atmosphere outside of the engine, in its haste to escape this high pressure enviroment it builds speed or velocity and this is what carries the oil with it .The inside of a high rpm engine looks like a hurricane at times with oil being thrown from the crank and rods, this is how the oil becomes airborne to start ,then if you have a large amount of air that has leaked in you wind up with oil in the catch can /breather system.This problem is not isolated to only Hondas, it happens to any engine that has a high amount of ring leakage. Now I know that there are going to be people who are going to say hey my engine is fresh ,but truth beknown that doesnt matter, there are many reasons for excessive blowby conditions .I'll cover some simple ones starting with the most likely first, improper ring end gap, cylinders out of round ,rings installed wrong (seen it more than I should),excessive piston to wall clearance,bad tune-up on the engine (ie: timing set wrong or lean air/fuel ratio, I should label this one number 1) both will cause detonation which will unseat the rings,the use of a 2step rpm controller (these things will kill an engine in a hurry,want more on this ask I'll post it),time is another factor ,all engines from the minute they are first run are going away ,yes some faster than others but it is fact, a fresh engine is stronger than one that has entire season on it.As for an interm fix there are a few which were mentioned, the larger hose size is correct it will help drop the velocity to some extent, which is why the fittings we make(both -12 AN and 3/4" hose barb style) are that large.As far as anti siphon fitting???In order to siphon a liquid, the end of it would have to extend into and below the level of the liquid, now this can happen on a Honda, but it is rare,and this is how it happens.There are 2 crankcase vent passages that lead to the cylinder head, and only one on a GSR head is truly a vent the other has oil draining down it (this one is on the driver side or closest to the alternator)and should not be used for a vent to a catch can, and yes we supply 2 fittings in our kit,because no matter how much I explain this ,there are some who want to run a hose from here.Now as for how we would siphon oil out of these, we would have to have the oil rise up to the hose connection on the block, this could happen on the drivers side or sump side if you like, under extremely hard acceleration( something on the order of 2.5 G's on a launch),but this is not likely,unless the pan was over filled to start with.And even then we would have a hard time creating a siphon effect as the top of the vents are exposed to air, which you know what happens when the is a hole in the hose ,no siphoning taking place.This should help explain most of it ,I know I may have missed some points that I wanted to cover and if I did just ask, I'll try to post a reply as quickly as possible, Thanks

 

when you setup a 2 step on theese turbo 4 and 6 cyl motors we usually take out about 14 degrees of timing to spool the turbo, how can this cause blow by or hurt the rings??

Ed-