Ive been using an old makita for the last few months that just recently burnt out on me... Im not quite ready to step into the big leagues of grinders yet so Im looking for another budget unit to get me by for now...

What are all you other DIY head/IM porters using???

Give me some ideas, input and feedback on what grinder to get so I can get back to plearning the ins and outs of porting...

 

snap on.

 

This one looks good



Harbor Frieght. $40 bucks.

Get a $8 light dimmer from Home Depot and your golden.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one looks good



Harbor Frieght. $40 bucks.

Get a $8 light dimmer from Home Depot and your golden.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive heard HF grinders burn out quickly, anyone have any firsthand experience with them?

 

Isnt this what you used...



http://www.harborfreight.com/c...31854

Ive always likes makita... Mine lasted for years before it burnt out...

 

I've used a Makita GEO600 die grinder for a long time now and it has worked well. Price is around $100. If I were to buy another one I would prolly get the Harbor Frieght one.

I've got this one now to do some serious metal removal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one looks good



Harbor Frieght. $40 bucks.

Get a $8 light dimmer from Home Depot and your golden.</TD></TR></TABLE>

been using this one for about 3 months now, posted a lot about it on rockets board. love it. maybe i got a good batch.
i also have a rpm reducer made for routers from mcls.com or something like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This one looks good



Harbor Frieght. $40 bucks.

Get a $8 light dimmer from Home Depot and your golden.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I got the same one, but I never used it,lol

 

lol, try it, its pretty nice

 

wheres everyone getting their burs/roll's from?

http://www.ruffsruff.com has been cool so far, just curious if there are any other spots I didnt know about that I should check out???

 

Rocket just wants to be like me with his Milwaukee

I use burrs and buffs from Mcmaster, and I usually get sanding rolls from Bright Works. They have both treated me really well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Teggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rocket just wants to be like me with his Milwaukee

I use burrs and buffs from Mcmaster, and I usually get sanding rolls from Bright Works. They have both treated me really well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

URL for McMaster?

 

Here ya go

McMaster-Carr

 

dont get anything from IPS in so cal. I got a grinder from them, and it lasted like 20 minutes, and then their saw sucked big time too

Harbor freight grinders are I've personally used one alot, however its the grinder that includes that 3" circular "blade".


Id like to start port matching some crap but then i dont know the first thing about how to port for gains

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Id like to start port matching some crap but then i dont know the first thing about how to port for gains
</TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe some of these guys in here with experience can give us some pointers....like how to basic port-match manifolds, etc. for starters...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3rdGteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe some of these guys in here with experience can give us some pointers....like how to basic port-match manifolds, etc. for starters... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Something I learned from browsing the ENDYN boards a few years ago then tried later on was to keep the IM runners smaller than the intake ports on the head...

Its a little thing but sometimes little things can make big differences...

But in terms of port matching...

Most of the time when porting the intake side of the head you generally open the ports to match the pattern traced from the IM gasket... Once thats done you can than transfer that same gasket tracing onto the IM and go to work on that...

If you are going with a more unusial port shape you can always come up with numerous ways to trace the port shape and transfer it to the IM...

I once watched a local porter do a square port head and IM, I learned A TON from that single session...

Watching, asking questions and practicing on your own is the best way to go about learning the tricks of the trade...

 

i got a new Chinese Makita-knock-off from ebay for ~$25 shipped (uses Makita replacement parts), and a plug-in inline potentiometer from a local harware store for ~$8, so i didn't have to splice any wires. you can see pics in this thread from TOO BBS (if you're registered): http://www.theoldone.com/forum...ffler

so far i've shaved some pvc with it, and am now working on my dual-to-single runner conversion b18c IM. there's a lot of "meat" in there, and so far the grinder seems to be holding up. for anyone who wants to try this, though, i'd also recommend a sawzall or plasma cutter (i still need one of those); you'll learn why porters charge what they do for similar work (especially when it's done well/ properly and their time/skill is actually worth $). (and, consider that some of these guys used to rework iron with hand files; we're spoiled with cutting Al with power tools.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Teggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rocket just wants to be like me with his Milwaukee ;</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep yep. I was like Scott can't have a better grinder than me, so I bought a big Milawaukee grinder and now I feel better.

 

Speed control is important otherwise you'll ending burning the rolls up and the final finish will look like ***.

 

Thanks for the McMaster-Carr site... Theres a lot of cool **** on there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are going with a more unusial port shape you can always come up with numerous ways to trace the port shape and transfer it to the IM...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Can you please elaborate Rick...
My head was professionally ported, now I would like to portmatch my manifold. What is the best way/ or tool to use to cut the manifold gasket when tracing the head port? The head's opening is bigger than the manifold gasket, what's the best way to go about this?

 

i've also come across people who say the intake maniold should be smaller than the intake ports on the head. And is the reverse also true on the exhaust?
That the exhaust manifold should be smaller than the head ports?

please correct me, thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've also come across people who say the intake maniold should be smaller than the intake ports on the head. And is the reverse also true on the exhaust?
That the exhaust manifold should be smaller than the head ports?

please correct me, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No the ex port should be smaller than the header.

 

Back to the top for more porting tips

 

I use a full sized porter cable drill, and I have a few attachments to go along with it, so far it works just as well as any die grinder i have used. The only thing is its size, you really have to keep an eye out on the thing when the snout gets too close to the surface.