I just bought a 1997 Honda Accord EX Automatic. Seemed great when I tested it and is problem free in the low RPMs. It is when I try to go past 5000RPMs It gets sluggish and seems like it can't go above that. Seems like there is a power curve and it won't get past that. Also, it won't shift to the next gear unless I give it a little less gas, still won't go past 5500RPMs. This causes a problem when I try to pass on the highway. No extra kick! Can anyone tell me if there is a factory installed turbo on the VTEC engine? that's what CARPOINT.com says, and I wanted to know if there was truth to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NovaKnowledgeNow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just bought a 1997 Honda Accord EX Automatic. Seemed great when I tested it and is problem free in the low RPMs. It is when I try to go past 5000RPMs It gets sluggish and seems like it can't go above that. Seems like there is a power curve and it won't get past that. Also, it won't shift to the next gear unless I give it a little less gas, still won't go past 5500RPMs. This causes a problem when I try to pass on the highway. No extra kick! Can anyone tell me if there is a factory installed turbo on the VTEC engine? that's what CARPOINT.com says, and I wanted to know if there was truth to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

fuel cut off...........honda hasnt used turbos since the early/mid 80s........

 

Factory Turbo VTEC? Mine's parked next to my fuel injected model T...

 

Fuel cut off... that doesn't sound too expensive... right? Also, do I NEED to use 93 Premium gas, or with the 87 regular cut it? Don't blame me for thinking there is a turbo, it's on msn's website (carpoint.com). Any other possibilities other than Fuel cut off? Anyone second that motion?

 

still no answers? c'mon, I know I'm new here but someone please help me with this. Does anyone second the fuel injectors idea?

 

If your manual says use the premium fuel, use it. End of discussion. Read your manual.

Check your oil level....I'm not that familiar with SOHC VTEC, but in my Type R (DOHC VTEC) if there is trouble with the second stage of vtec engaging, you always check your oil first.

VTEC is dependant on oil pressure to engage. If you do not have enough oil, it will not engage and seem "sluggish" like you described.

Are you throwing any CELs?

 

When I bought the car there were no manuals... I'm kinda hoping someone else has one.

No CELs yet. I'll check the oil pressure today.
What does VTEC stand for anyway, I can't remember. I thought it was like
Verible Timing Electronically Controlled or something like that. Am I on the right track?

seems like the power starts to taper off at around 3500RPMs then just holds at 5000-5500 and won't go past that. It just sits there unless I let off the gas pedal a little. Then it shifts to the next gear and the RPMS drop to 3000. I'm open to all suggestions.

 

Check your oil level, not your oil pressure....

VTEC - Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control....but instead of VVTELC, they shortened it to the ultra cool VTEC.

 

Timing belt a tooth off will cause this problem.....If the idle has been jacked up using the throttle cable the computer loses it's base idle and timing. The Vtec solenoid not energizing or having plugged up passages, could cause this. Over tightened valves, causes compression loss and eventually a burnt valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

fuel cut off...........honda hasnt used turbos since the early/mid 80s........</TD></TR></TABLE>
really i thought they were still using turbo's in jet ski's and in a jdm only mini van

 

Actually, now that you mention it, when I bought the car, the sales person reved the engine up from inside the engine bay. I then drove the car 500 miles home to VA. Since being home, I've driven it locally and it's gotten a little better... almost 6000RPMs but it's still sluggish. Oil is a little low. I think I might just take it to a mechanic. I also noticed the tail lights, interior lights and dashboard weren't working. I inspected the fuses and found that I need to replace a couple. This might explain why I couldn't get the stereo to work.

 

No offense, but it sounds like you barely looked the car over before forking the cash...

 

did a pretty good thorough inspection on the car and even got a warranty on it, I think it's acting better now that i have premium fuel in it. Burned fuses? that happens, especially when your aftermarket stereo draws more current than the fuse can take. That explains the lights going out. They were working before I started working with the stereo. I'm scheduling the car with my mechanic tommorow morning so I should know in a couple days whether or not the car is in perfect order. It needs the state inspection anyhow. Thanks for all the help and all, I'll have the verdict for you soon. Feel free to give me anymore suggestions you'd like. Honest constructive critism is the best.

 

It's an automatic, it's normal, the ecm controls the rev limiter, if you want to rev it
up to 5000rpm and up trade for a 5 speed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DragonTLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's an automatic, it's normal, the ecm controls the rev limiter, if you want to rev it
up to 5000rpm and up trade for a 5 speed </TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, what is the redline on those cars? The car should pull all the way to redline...this has nothing to do with a rev limiter....

 

that's exactly my point! the redline is like 6000-7000. I can't even get to it. My dad's car pulls all the way to the redline and gets stronger all the way until it shifts. My car won't get that far, and seems to get a little weaker as it goes up. I'm not sure what it is. I have the car scheduled to see my mechanic this week and we'll see what the verdict is on thursday, but I'd love more input. It gives me more suggestions to tell my mechanic. hopefully it will be cheap! lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NovaKnowledgeNow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's exactly my point! the redline is like 6000-7000. I can't even get to it. My dad's car pulls all the way to the redline and gets stronger all the way until it shifts. My car won't get that far, and seems to get a little weaker as it goes up. I'm not sure what it is. I have the car scheduled to see my mechanic this week and we'll see what the verdict is on thursday, but I'd love more input. It gives me more suggestions to tell my mechanic. hopefully it will be cheap! lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

The redline is 6000-7000? That can't be...the redline is a specific number...

Like my Type-R redlines at 8400.
My accord redlines at 6300.

So where is your redline?

Sounds like your second stage of VTEC is having some sort of trouble...which could be the result of low oil...like i said before.

Even my 91 Accord with 249,000 miles on the clock pulls all the way to redline.

 

It's an automatic...it's weaker than the 5 spd from power lost in the drive train

And my 94 ex bounced at 6300-6500 and it was a 5 spd so 6000 is nothing to cry about. 5500-5600 is the max power anyways, to rev it any futher it is just to get your next gear in the higher rpms when you change gears or it changes for you.

 

yeah, but my dad has a 1997 accord LX that goes all the way to the redline with out a problem and has more power, and that's just the regular LX, not a more powerful EX like what I have now. mine kicks gets to 5000 RPMS and stops there, I have NO passing power. When it hits 5000 RPMS, it's almost as if the car is in neutral. There is no extra power. I feel the power climbing from 1000-4000RPMS but then it starts to die down. Also, If I'm flooring it, The car just hovers at 5000RPMS until I let off the accelerator, then it will shift.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Klemgold &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh, what is the redline on those cars? The car should pull all the way to redline...this has nothing to do with a rev limiter....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.

Sounds like this isn't the only problem you have with the car. Good luck with your troubles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznPrideYo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's an automatic...it's weaker than the 5 spd from power lost in the drive train

And my 94 ex bounced at 6300-6500 and it was a 5 spd so 6000 is nothing to cry about. 5500-5600 is the max power anyways, to rev it any futher it is just to get your next gear in the higher rpms when you change gears or it changes for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

most numbers ive seen have the max power at 6200 RPM. the fact that it has a manual or auto has no effect on the engines redline.

 

So we all agree that AznPrideYo was talking out his ***...let's move on

 

Mine felt exactly that way when VTEC wasnt engaging, power drops off after 3500rpm and sluggish up to 5-5500rpm with the car not able to pull any further. Though in my case it was because i was playing with a different ECU so i dont know what could be causing your issues

 

man you gots to be joking! my vtak is just engaging at 6k. i redline at 10!

 

I was thinking about another engine x.x sorry for the miss info.. but if his vtec isn't engauging then how is he getting it up to 6k as he stated?The engines have a safe mode right? also when my auto tranny wasn't shifting at the right time I messed with the cable off the TB so I thought for some reason that's all there was... forgive me I'm a retard x.x