My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review...
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review...
I built my H23 VTEC because my old H23 hydrolocked and snapped a rod, which ate the block. I was fairly broke, but had plenty of tools. I was sick of paying near the same price for an H23 when I could have the H22, so I started my project.
I bought an H22 longblock and ECU w/ higher miles. I disassembled it, replaced the valve stem seals, and ported it very lightly...mainly I just got rid the casting seams. I cleaned the carbon from the exhaust ports and the combustion chamber. I cleaned out the intake manifold and did some very sligth porting there as well.
On the bottom end, I used the H22 block. I bought new OEM H23 rods and USDM H22 pistons w/ NAPA bearings. I had the entire rotating assembly balanced at a reputable local shop, and also had the crank micropolished while it was there. My head and block's mating surfaces were checked on a straight edge, and then an OEM H22 head gasket was used w/ copper spray. The block was not honed, and the top piston ring was set on the loose side. I used my old stock flywheel and had it resurfaced. an Exedy thin 3-puck Cerametallic clutch was installed along w/ their stiffer pressure plate and TO bearing. The motor was bolted back in and ES black bushings were installed into the factory motor mounts. Right now I am using an HP Racing header I picked up for cheap w/ only the cat bolted up. The intake is a SRI DC Sports intake, but an AEM CAI w/ an NOS wet kit will be going on shortly.
I idled her up for ~30 minutes, shut her down, changed the oil and filter, troubleshooted a few things, and took her out for the breakin. I drove her easy for 500 miles, drained the oil, and then wired up VTEC. Now just a week earlier I had wired up an H22 into an Si and drove it hard the entire evening, so I have a good idea of how the H22 acted.
When I finally got all the kinks worked out and had VTEC wired up, I took it out onto a long open road and opened her up from a stop. The car pulled nice and hard on the bottom end, exactly how my old H23 pulled. But when the tachometer reached 5500, the car flat out ****in exploded! My tires are old and bald, and VTEC lit them up like there was no tomorrow. I slowed down a bit, shifted to second, and rolled onto the throttle at about 3k and wound it out. That time, it pulled nice and hard, then at 5500 the tach needle lunged for the end of the gauge. VTEC kicks in MUCH harder in this motor than in the straight H22!
The motor is beautiful; it does not feel like any Honda motor I have ever driven. It has great bottom-end torque, and daily driving is very easy and fun. But it loves to rev up too. I know exactly what I was expecting out of this motor, and quite honestly it is much more than I imagined.
The Exedy Cerametallic clutch is very nice as well. It has a stiffer pedal feel than stock, but it is by no means too stiff. It took very little getting used to and is very easy to modulate. The clutch disc is easy to slip, yet grabs nice and hard at the very end of engagement. I haven't heard much chatter from it when accelerating from a stop, but my car does shudder now when shifting into a gear w/ the RPM's raising and no rev-matching. This is a very good clutch that holds a good amount of power, yet is still very streetable and easy to drive. The only thing left to see on this clutch is how long the disc lasts.
All in all, I am thoroughly impressed. I could have just paid someone to drop in a higher-mileage H22 in, yet for about the same cost I have a motor that's practically got 0-miles that I completely built myself with upgraded parts and with a powerband that is MUCH more fun to me. While it's much too early to tell, I don't think longevity will be a problem with this motor. I would recommend this build to anyone who is interested in building their H-motor.
On my old good H23 w/ a good set of street tires, full stock exhaust, and an AEM CAI, I ran a best of 16.0 @ 88mph at the slow track locally. This Friday I will be heading back up to the track running open-header, SRI, and some hard bald street tires that REALLY need to be replaced
Also soon to come: a full photo album of the build, from start to finish.
I bought an H22 longblock and ECU w/ higher miles. I disassembled it, replaced the valve stem seals, and ported it very lightly...mainly I just got rid the casting seams. I cleaned the carbon from the exhaust ports and the combustion chamber. I cleaned out the intake manifold and did some very sligth porting there as well.
On the bottom end, I used the H22 block. I bought new OEM H23 rods and USDM H22 pistons w/ NAPA bearings. I had the entire rotating assembly balanced at a reputable local shop, and also had the crank micropolished while it was there. My head and block's mating surfaces were checked on a straight edge, and then an OEM H22 head gasket was used w/ copper spray. The block was not honed, and the top piston ring was set on the loose side. I used my old stock flywheel and had it resurfaced. an Exedy thin 3-puck Cerametallic clutch was installed along w/ their stiffer pressure plate and TO bearing. The motor was bolted back in and ES black bushings were installed into the factory motor mounts. Right now I am using an HP Racing header I picked up for cheap w/ only the cat bolted up. The intake is a SRI DC Sports intake, but an AEM CAI w/ an NOS wet kit will be going on shortly.
I idled her up for ~30 minutes, shut her down, changed the oil and filter, troubleshooted a few things, and took her out for the breakin. I drove her easy for 500 miles, drained the oil, and then wired up VTEC. Now just a week earlier I had wired up an H22 into an Si and drove it hard the entire evening, so I have a good idea of how the H22 acted.
When I finally got all the kinks worked out and had VTEC wired up, I took it out onto a long open road and opened her up from a stop. The car pulled nice and hard on the bottom end, exactly how my old H23 pulled. But when the tachometer reached 5500, the car flat out ****in exploded! My tires are old and bald, and VTEC lit them up like there was no tomorrow. I slowed down a bit, shifted to second, and rolled onto the throttle at about 3k and wound it out. That time, it pulled nice and hard, then at 5500 the tach needle lunged for the end of the gauge. VTEC kicks in MUCH harder in this motor than in the straight H22!
The motor is beautiful; it does not feel like any Honda motor I have ever driven. It has great bottom-end torque, and daily driving is very easy and fun. But it loves to rev up too. I know exactly what I was expecting out of this motor, and quite honestly it is much more than I imagined.
The Exedy Cerametallic clutch is very nice as well. It has a stiffer pedal feel than stock, but it is by no means too stiff. It took very little getting used to and is very easy to modulate. The clutch disc is easy to slip, yet grabs nice and hard at the very end of engagement. I haven't heard much chatter from it when accelerating from a stop, but my car does shudder now when shifting into a gear w/ the RPM's raising and no rev-matching. This is a very good clutch that holds a good amount of power, yet is still very streetable and easy to drive. The only thing left to see on this clutch is how long the disc lasts.
All in all, I am thoroughly impressed. I could have just paid someone to drop in a higher-mileage H22 in, yet for about the same cost I have a motor that's practically got 0-miles that I completely built myself with upgraded parts and with a powerband that is MUCH more fun to me. While it's much too early to tell, I don't think longevity will be a problem with this motor. I would recommend this build to anyone who is interested in building their H-motor.
On my old good H23 w/ a good set of street tires, full stock exhaust, and an AEM CAI, I ran a best of 16.0 @ 88mph at the slow track locally. This Friday I will be heading back up to the track running open-header, SRI, and some hard bald street tires that REALLY need to be replaced
Also soon to come: a full photo album of the build, from start to finish.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: San Diego, CA
Re: My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review... (LudeyKrus)
H23 VTEC's can and do run reliably and for long periods of time... Ive really only seen a few blow up and that has been the few that have been posted on this board...
There are SO MANY running strong out here in SoCal, some have been running for years, taking daily abuse and still going strong...
There are SO MANY running strong out here in SoCal, some have been running for years, taking daily abuse and still going strong...
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,969
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review... (LudeyKrus)
good job man, can't wait for the pics, im glad your motor is working out for you, i am very impressed with my 95mm stroke bottome end, i only wis i took the time to put the knock sensor in, but i didn't know my turbo mani would take this long 
what tranny are you using, and what ecu, just a stock p13?
i can't wait to take this thing tothe track, and see what my 2156cc of displacement can do for me.
what tranny are you using, and what ecu, just a stock p13?
i can't wait to take this thing tothe track, and see what my 2156cc of displacement can do for me.
Re: My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review... (prelittlelude)
Great write-up!!
This is something you can always look back to and say that you did it!! That's a great accomplishment in itself.
I might have to call upon you if I undertake my H23VTEC project. I figure it is worth a try since I have a complete H23 bottomend that is in great shape to mess around with.
Can't wait to see the pics.
This is something you can always look back to and say that you did it!! That's a great accomplishment in itself.
I might have to call upon you if I undertake my H23VTEC project. I figure it is worth a try since I have a complete H23 bottomend that is in great shape to mess around with.
Can't wait to see the pics.
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review... (AndyD)
Good write up man
A couple questions for you though,
did you remove the balance shafts?
are you using the h23 tranny?
How did you get away with not honing the
cylinder walls and putting in new pistons?
A couple questions for you though,
did you remove the balance shafts?
are you using the h23 tranny?
How did you get away with not honing the
cylinder walls and putting in new pistons?
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From: Stanley, NC, USA
Re: My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review... (SKDRCR)
What's the highest you can rev that motor safely?
Also, this is the most successful H23VTEC I've ever heard of, what could've made this different and better than so many others?
Congrats man, awesome job, I wish I had the knowledge/ability to do something like this.
-sam
Also, this is the most successful H23VTEC I've ever heard of, what could've made this different and better than so many others?
Congrats man, awesome job, I wish I had the knowledge/ability to do something like this.
-sam
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Houston, texas, usa
Re: My H23 VTEC Buildup, a Review... (LudeyKrus)
Next mods: Tires, Tuning. Must feel nice to get it back on the road. Like the other posts asked, do you still have the H23 tranny and are you using a P13? What did your compression ratio end up being? Was the replacement H22 USDM or JDM?
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Alrighty, here's a few things I need to clear up.
I am using the H22's stock P13 ECU and 345cc injectors. It may be running very lean right now, I can't tell. My a/f gauge is showing full lean, and I'm throwin code #43 - Fuel System. This code is usually caused when the ECU cannot compensate enough when the motor runs overly rich/lean. I just didn't think that I would run it THAT lean w/ this combo. Only a wideband will tell.......
The H22 I built upon was a USDM H22.
I am using the H23 tranny. I have ran it hard up through the first 4 gears and have had no problem whatsoever with staying in VTEC.....if I rev it out fully; but then again, why would you wanna stay in VTEC between each gear unless you were racing?! The 3-4 shift is just great; it lands you right back where you need to be, and that's where I would punch it if I were on the highway. the 1-2 shift is a bit more tricky, but once again, it is easy to nail if you wind the motor out.
I thought the compression ratio would be right around 10.4:1, but Satan said on my post on PO.com that it is around 11.1:1......I'll try doin the math later to confirm it all.
I did not remove the balance shafts, although I may be takin the belt off to see how it feels. The motor revs nice and quick right now, I'm very interested in seeing how it acts w/ less rotating mass.
I didn't hone the walls because they didn't really need to be. I popped in the new rings and went. The hone from the factory is very fine anyways, so it doesn't really do much. I've been doggin on the motor the past few days, and it hasn't burned a drop of oil yet as far as I can tell.
As far as how high the motor can be rev'd: only time will tell. I'm not hard on my cars; i will only be winding it out to 7600 on the occasional spurt or at the track. I have taken it to 7600 quite a few times now and there have been no adverse effects, so nothing catastrophic is going to happen if you rev it. IMO, everything will be fine as long as everything is balanced very well.
I am also not running the oil squirters. IMO, the oil pressure should be put somewhere else, like the bearings. And I couldn't get the squirters to fit in the first place.
And I wouldn't call it the most successful yet; it's been on the roads for less than a week! But everything is going very good so far; now I gotta start getting the actual car back into good shape!
And if Greyout would actually send me the exhaust I bought from him......
I am using the H22's stock P13 ECU and 345cc injectors. It may be running very lean right now, I can't tell. My a/f gauge is showing full lean, and I'm throwin code #43 - Fuel System. This code is usually caused when the ECU cannot compensate enough when the motor runs overly rich/lean. I just didn't think that I would run it THAT lean w/ this combo. Only a wideband will tell.......
The H22 I built upon was a USDM H22.
I am using the H23 tranny. I have ran it hard up through the first 4 gears and have had no problem whatsoever with staying in VTEC.....if I rev it out fully; but then again, why would you wanna stay in VTEC between each gear unless you were racing?! The 3-4 shift is just great; it lands you right back where you need to be, and that's where I would punch it if I were on the highway. the 1-2 shift is a bit more tricky, but once again, it is easy to nail if you wind the motor out.
I thought the compression ratio would be right around 10.4:1, but Satan said on my post on PO.com that it is around 11.1:1......I'll try doin the math later to confirm it all.
I did not remove the balance shafts, although I may be takin the belt off to see how it feels. The motor revs nice and quick right now, I'm very interested in seeing how it acts w/ less rotating mass.
I didn't hone the walls because they didn't really need to be. I popped in the new rings and went. The hone from the factory is very fine anyways, so it doesn't really do much. I've been doggin on the motor the past few days, and it hasn't burned a drop of oil yet as far as I can tell.
As far as how high the motor can be rev'd: only time will tell. I'm not hard on my cars; i will only be winding it out to 7600 on the occasional spurt or at the track. I have taken it to 7600 quite a few times now and there have been no adverse effects, so nothing catastrophic is going to happen if you rev it. IMO, everything will be fine as long as everything is balanced very well.
I am also not running the oil squirters. IMO, the oil pressure should be put somewhere else, like the bearings. And I couldn't get the squirters to fit in the first place.
And I wouldn't call it the most successful yet; it's been on the roads for less than a week! But everything is going very good so far; now I gotta start getting the actual car back into good shape!
And if Greyout would actually send me the exhaust I bought from him......
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought the compression ratio would be right around 10.4:1, but Satan said on my post on PO.com that it is around 11.1:1......I'll try doin the math later to confirm it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought that just 10:1 pistons alone put you at 11.6:1
then resurfacing the head, but in your case you didn't have to
which is good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't hone the walls because they didn't really need to be. I popped in the new rings and went. The hone from the factory is very fine anyways, so it doesn't really do much. I've been doggin on the motor the past few days, and it hasn't burned a drop of oil yet as far as I can tell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is good because i was curious about doing the same thing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but an AEM CAI w/ an NOS wet kit will be going on shortly</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought this wasn't a good idea to do when running over 11:1 compression
i hear it can be done, but i also here there is little or no margin for error.
what are your thoughts on this?
I thought the compression ratio would be right around 10.4:1, but Satan said on my post on PO.com that it is around 11.1:1......I'll try doin the math later to confirm it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought that just 10:1 pistons alone put you at 11.6:1
then resurfacing the head, but in your case you didn't have to
which is good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didn't hone the walls because they didn't really need to be. I popped in the new rings and went. The hone from the factory is very fine anyways, so it doesn't really do much. I've been doggin on the motor the past few days, and it hasn't burned a drop of oil yet as far as I can tell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is good because i was curious about doing the same thing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but an AEM CAI w/ an NOS wet kit will be going on shortly</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought this wasn't a good idea to do when running over 11:1 compression
i hear it can be done, but i also here there is little or no margin for error.
what are your thoughts on this?
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Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,768
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Re: (SKDRCR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i thought this wasn't a good idea to do when running over 11:1 compression
i hear it can be done, but i also here there is little or no margin for error.
what are your thoughts on this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well like I said before, I thought my compression was actually around 10.4:1 till Satan said otherwise over on PO.com. I will def. need to do the math myself before saying for sure what I'll be doing w/ the nitrous. I have heard of a stock H22 running a 125 shot and holding up fine, so I was thinkin an 80 shot would be plenty to put me at ~260whp. If not, I could always go up to the 100 shot jets
But if I am indeed at about 11:1, then I will have to stick to no more than an 80 shot and I will only do that after I throw it on a wideband and tune it to make sure it's running slightly rich.
Anything over 11:1 and tuning gets hairy w/ spray. Like you said, there is very little margin for error, and that's not a risk I'm willing to take on this motor.
i thought this wasn't a good idea to do when running over 11:1 compression
i hear it can be done, but i also here there is little or no margin for error.
what are your thoughts on this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well like I said before, I thought my compression was actually around 10.4:1 till Satan said otherwise over on PO.com. I will def. need to do the math myself before saying for sure what I'll be doing w/ the nitrous. I have heard of a stock H22 running a 125 shot and holding up fine, so I was thinkin an 80 shot would be plenty to put me at ~260whp. If not, I could always go up to the 100 shot jets
But if I am indeed at about 11:1, then I will have to stick to no more than an 80 shot and I will only do that after I throw it on a wideband and tune it to make sure it's running slightly rich.
Anything over 11:1 and tuning gets hairy w/ spray. Like you said, there is very little margin for error, and that's not a risk I'm willing to take on this motor.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: northern DRUNKit, ma
Re: (LudeyKrus)
poost up your full setup , i will crunch the numbers for you and check joel, its easy to do,
there is nothing wrong with running a reasonable nitrious shot on a high compression, nitrious likes high compression neway.. to a point
as withthe frm and just slapping new piston and rings in, i have heard of shops that work on frm motors with 200k plus and they just pull out the old and in with he new, something to do with how the frm is,
there is nothing wrong with running a reasonable nitrious shot on a high compression, nitrious likes high compression neway.. to a point
as withthe frm and just slapping new piston and rings in, i have heard of shops that work on frm motors with 200k plus and they just pull out the old and in with he new, something to do with how the frm is,
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 921
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From: San Diego, CA
Re: (LudeyKrus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well like I said before, I thought my compression was actually around 10.4:1 till Satan said otherwise over on PO.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Joel (Satan_SRV) is wrong with his compression calcualtions for the H23 VTEC motor... He has never factored in the differences in compression height from the H23 to H22 pistons
H22 = 1.222
H23 = 1.203
Its actually quite a bit higher than what he has posted on this and other boards...
Ill see if I can calculate the correct CR's when I get back to the casa tonight...
Well like I said before, I thought my compression was actually around 10.4:1 till Satan said otherwise over on PO.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Joel (Satan_SRV) is wrong with his compression calcualtions for the H23 VTEC motor... He has never factored in the differences in compression height from the H23 to H22 pistons
H22 = 1.222
H23 = 1.203
Its actually quite a bit higher than what he has posted on this and other boards...
Ill see if I can calculate the correct CR's when I get back to the casa tonight...
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 3
From: East Village, NYC
Re: (Rick Solis)
I'm wring but it wasn't for that reason...I was smoking crack this morning and quoted the h22a pistons in an H23 figures....not H23 VTEC...my bad
10.4 is more like it...rick can crunch the numbers for you though
10.4 is more like it...rick can crunch the numbers for you though
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Flowery Branch, Ga
Re: (satan_srv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm wring but it wasn't for that reason...I was smoking crack this morning </TD></TR></TABLE>
Put the Skunk2 manifo...............er, bong down!
Put the Skunk2 manifo...............er, bong down!
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 921
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From: San Diego, CA
Re: (satan_srv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm wring but it wasn't for that reason...I was smoking crack this morning and quoted the h22a pistons in an H23 figures....not H23 VTEC...my bad
10.4 is more like it...rick can crunch the numbers for you though</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you were wrong in the way you calculated compressions by just assuming the compression heights were the same between the 2... All you did was plug in what stroke and what head leaving all other variables the same (compression height/deck clearance)
I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
Once I have that info Ill clear it up for everyone
and no, his compression isnt 10.4... Even with even US H22 pistons will be a lot higher than 10.4...
10.4 is more like it...rick can crunch the numbers for you though</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you were wrong in the way you calculated compressions by just assuming the compression heights were the same between the 2... All you did was plug in what stroke and what head leaving all other variables the same (compression height/deck clearance)
I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
Once I have that info Ill clear it up for everyone
and no, his compression isnt 10.4... Even with even US H22 pistons will be a lot higher than 10.4...
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: (SKDRCR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I thought that just 10:1 pistons alone put you at 11.6:1
then resurfacing the head, but in your case you didn't have to
which is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My bad, i was factoring in an h23 head not an h22 head
so the compression numbers should be lower than 11.6:1
I thought that just 10:1 pistons alone put you at 11.6:1
then resurfacing the head, but in your case you didn't have to
which is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My bad, i was factoring in an h23 head not an h22 head
so the compression numbers should be lower than 11.6:1
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From: San Diego, CA
Re: (SKDRCR)
by using the H22 piston US/JDM/Type S you have to factor in the difference in compression height... There is a difference of .019, meaning H22 pistons are going to sit .019 higher in the hole than H23 pistons would with the H23 crank and rods
Someone needs to take a pic of a H22 piston sitting right next to a H23 piston so you can see what I mean
Someone needs to take a pic of a H22 piston sitting right next to a H23 piston so you can see what I mean
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From: On the Prowl, Mo
Re: (Rick Solis)
So Ludeykrust, could you explain what you mean by
leaving the top piston ring loose and what this does?
p.s. j/k about your name, i was just trying
to add a little humor in the thread
leaving the top piston ring loose and what this does?
p.s. j/k about your name, i was just trying
to add a little humor in the thread
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 3
From: East Village, NYC
Re: (Rick Solis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, you were wrong in the way you calculated compressions by just assuming the compression heights were the same between the 2... All you did was plug in what stroke and what head leaving all other variables the same (compression height/deck clearance)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I started from H22a specs so my pistons always have the same compression height. I just changed the stroke. The compression height of H23 pistons is never an issue. So......
I really don't care to spend the time to get these 'exact' numbers because honestly combustion chamber specs are different depending on who you talk to and several other measurements, so close enough is about all I care to spend time on. But by all means bust out the calculator and get to it.
No, you were wrong in the way you calculated compressions by just assuming the compression heights were the same between the 2... All you did was plug in what stroke and what head leaving all other variables the same (compression height/deck clearance)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I started from H22a specs so my pistons always have the same compression height. I just changed the stroke. The compression height of H23 pistons is never an issue. So......
I really don't care to spend the time to get these 'exact' numbers because honestly combustion chamber specs are different depending on who you talk to and several other measurements, so close enough is about all I care to spend time on. But by all means bust out the calculator and get to it.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 921
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Re: (Rick Solis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
Once I have that info Ill clear it up for everyone</TD></TR></TABLE>
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
Once I have that info Ill clear it up for everyone</TD></TR></TABLE>
Re: (Rick Solis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
Once I have that info Ill clear it up for everyone
...</TD></TR></TABLE>
h23 cc=50
h22 cc=53.8
deck height=8.655 for both
from specs theard at top
oem headgasket? what is h23 size? h22 is .029
I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
Once I have that info Ill clear it up for everyone
...</TD></TR></TABLE>
h23 cc=50
h22 cc=53.8
deck height=8.655 for both
from specs theard at top
oem headgasket? what is h23 size? h22 is .029
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 921
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Re: (fastludeh22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
h23 cc=50
h22 cc=53.8
deck height=8.655 for both
from specs theard at top
oem headgasket? what is h23 size? h22 is .029</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, i had the deck height and the combustion chamber volume already...
The gasket is actually .026 according to Omniman who is one of the most respected and overall knowledgable engine builders in the industry...
If he says its .026, than it is .026... no questions asked...
The things I need are exactly what is listed above...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S pistons
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
</TD></TR></TABLE>
h23 cc=50
h22 cc=53.8
deck height=8.655 for both
from specs theard at top
oem headgasket? what is h23 size? h22 is .029</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, i had the deck height and the combustion chamber volume already...
The gasket is actually .026 according to Omniman who is one of the most respected and overall knowledgable engine builders in the industry...
If he says its .026, than it is .026... no questions asked...
The things I need are exactly what is listed above...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will need the cc volume of each dome to calculate the CR's...
I need the cc volume of the H23, H22 US, H22 JDM and Type S pistons
Ill also need the stock deck clearance for the H22 and H23 blocks,,,
</TD></TR></TABLE>