We start the car. Every things fine. Put the clutch in, goes into gear. Put it in reverse. BAD BAD chatter as the clutch is let out. Roll out the driveway. Put it in first, bad chatter, but the car moves fine. Shift to second. Pull up to the stop sign. Take a right, let the clutch out, chatters bad. Then the car stops moving.

My room mate is like "oh ****" (it's his car). Push the car back into the garage. We start checking things. My first observation is the shift fork has excessive play. It's like the clutch is stuck (like the pedal is to the floor, but it isn't).

Any ideas? Would the shift fork popping off it's pivot cause a problem like this? When you put the clutch in, you can hear the tranny stop spinning. When you let it out, it starts spinning again, but it's like there isn't enough pressure to pull the car.

The tranny has been sitting for 3 years, think that would matter? I don't.

The clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel were all changed by my room mate.

FYI, I posted a thread where the dowel pins wouldn't line up...turns out my room mate didn't align the clutch correctly (and he never put the pilot bearing in the flywheel). He corrected this and it went together fine.

Would putting the clutch disc in backwards do something like this, or would it not go together at all?

I think he's gonna have to pull the tranny off again. Sucks to be him.

 

Hmmm.... could be that you lost the hydraulic pressure in your system. Maybe the output shaft of the slave cylinder is not lined up in the bore? My initial thought was either that but more likely a clutch problem until I read that it was changed, until I read that it may not have been changed correctly. Chattering usually means clutch slippage for whatever reason. Check the easy stuff first (clutch hydraulic system), then pull the tranny if necessary.

Good luck man, I hate pulling trannies after I just put 'em in... what a bitch!

PS the throw out fork is what disengages the clutch. The shift fork is in the tranny and shifts gears.

 

Let me describe the problem in more detail.

Put the clutch in, the slave cylinder pushes the throw out fork (as you put it) towards the passenger side of the car. When you let the pedal out, the shift fork should return to it's original position (from the pressure plate returning to it's original state). It doesn't. It's like the clutch pedal is still slightly depressed (I say slightly because it does return, to some extent, but not all the way.).

We removed the slave cylinder completely, and the clutch still stays "engaged". The hydraulic system is not the problem.

 

Bummer. Then you (and/or your roommate) are pulling the tranny. An inspection should reveal the problem. Something's binding in there. Maybe wrong throwout bearing or something. I don't think the clutch disk can go in backwards, but that part of the brain's a little foggy.

Hope that helps man.

 

He did use a B16 throw out bearing. That should work with an ITR / GSR combo, correct?

Also, you can feel the throw out bearing move with the shift fork, when you move it by hand (as I said earlier, there is some play in the fork, it moves back and forth easily about an inch).

 

Turns out my room mate didn't put the pass side axle in all the way. Rounded the end off the axle. He's worried about the axle...I told him he should be more worried about the metal shavings inside the lsd diff.

Hopefully a new axle will fix all his woes.

I'll follow up tomorrow.

 

Ok, I'm the roomate and I'm following up. Thanks to all for the help!

Monday Axel #1- Tip of the axel was rounded off. Chose not to attempt to fix. (dremel = bad)
Tuesday Axel #2 - Cut the boot while installing. Didn't realize it until after the victory ride.
Wednesday Axel #3 - Autozone is pissed by now, but It's up and running fine.

That problem with the release fork turns out not to be a problem, just seemed like a culprit at the time.

Shout out to wreckedmyteg for the physical help, and to H/T for the metal assistance.

-Junior-

PS - Drained the tranny 4 times now and still small shavings in the oil bucket. OUCH!

 

Get a magnet plug.

 

Great idea. Where?

 

Any auto parts store should be able to sell you one.

Or eBay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...46098

But every Honda should have at least one Spoon part, even though they are grossly overpriced. Spoon sells a oil drain plug and a tranny drain plug that are magnetic. Cost $40 for the set though.

Of course, the transmission has a magnet built in to pull out stuff.

 

I just bought 2 of them from Napa for $3 each.