Recently I sold and installed my GUDE head and IM to Nick aka '95deckedlude.' Then a month later he decided to drive into a lake.



Ok maybe it wasn't a lake, but you get the idea. Water splashed on top of the hood and the motor shut off immediately. Click, click, click..... the motor would not turn over.

Nick then called me and we immediately scheduled a rebuild. A meeting was scheduled on bourbon street where nick tried to take me into this bar:



What a homo. 3 days later the car was at my house.



The motor was yanked.



Next, I grabbed my swimming trunks and flippers and decided to go for a swim!







Now for the damage that happens when a motor is hydrolocked.





I am not going to mention the whole set-up, but the motor is going to be fully built with a very heavy shot of nitrous. The motor is being built and tuned 100% by yours truely. It should be capable of 270-300whp on nitrous and break into the 12's on the quarter mile.

This summer is looking good as far as building motors for me. My new set-up should be on the road very soon, Nick's set-up should be done in 4-6 weeks depending on part availability/machine work, and I will be installing/tuning a stock turbo h23a next weekend for 7psi. I might be working with Mase as well to help out on a new 500+whp 5th gen in the near future as well.

I am very reasonable on labor and I have a very extensive knowledge when it comes building motors, specializing in H series and turbo applications. I also provide work on any B/D series motor for FI or NA. I also do street and dyno tuning via s/v-afc and hondata for any application motor.

If you live in the GA/NC/SC/VA/FL area and would like quality motor work done with very reasonable prices, send me a PM. I am located in Charleston, SC.


Now for the technical side of things. What is hydrolocking exactly?
*Info taken from:http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/hydrofact.htm

Hydrostatic lock, hydraulic lock or hydrolock occurs when liquids, typically water, enter an engine cylinder. This can occur from a coolant, oil or fuel leak, but the chief cause is drawing water into the engine through the air induction system
(airbox & filter, ducting, throttle body or carburetor, intake manifold). Internal combustion engines (spark or compression ignition) operating on a two-stroke or four-stroke cycle must employ a compression stroke to compress the charge (usually an air/fuel mixture). Liquids are incompressible; the presence of a liquid in the engine cylinder during the compression stroke generates destructively high cylinder pressures.

Abnormally high cylinder pressures can bend and break pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, crankshafts and ruin bearings and can crack or break cylinder heads and engine blocks. Small amounts of liquids may pass through an engine cycle without damage, but volumes exceeding 40cc (1.4 fluid ounces, <3 tablespoons) will cause many engines to develop cylinder pressures
well in excess of 1000psi. A larger volume of water, up to the combustion chamber volume (usually 60cc to 100cc), will generate increasingly high cylinder pressure during the completion of the compression stroke. Volumes of water which exceed the combustion chamber volume will "stop" a running engine through true hydrostatic lock. Something expensive always bends or breaks when this happens.

Hydrolock may occur while the engine is running, the work of the compression stroke being supplied by engine's rotational inertia. Or a liquid may leak into the cylinder while the engine is being stored; the work of the compression stroke will be supplied by the starter motor.

 

jesus christ lol

 

better check those mains

 

Yeah unfortunately expensive:

 

That Sucks!

 

hey man i thought i told you not to tell about that strip club

i should charge admission to go swimming in my block

i was going like 5mph too....

 

Those rods need viagra.

 

I think Anthony almost drowned while taking that intake mani off. He calls me up and asks if I want to go swimming, funny, I didn't think the pool was ready yet?

 

sorry guys the pool is a lil dirty

but as for the new pool:

darton sleeves
ib spec H-beam rods
10:1 JE pistons-with a total 10.5:1
gude head-PnP/5angle/decked 20 thou/heat treated springs/
gude IM- port matched/PnP
aem pulleys
dc header
zex direct port 100 shot
hondata s200
2.75" custom exhaust
kyb agx shocks
gc coilovers
ingalls camber kit
exedy clutch
i think that basically covers it all

 

Wow talk about damage...

 

hey man good luck with nicks car. The only reason hes doin all the motor work is because hes tired of having his *** handed to him by the 00Si. Just joking Nick. Anthony sorry I didnt get to meet you when you were down. You gotta watch Nick on bourbon he likes to go to this place called "the Oz" and look for action there.

 

yo biatch stick to the little civic forum with your little engines and you wish could win

 

damn man that sucks. but the new setup sounds pretty sweet

 

IB spec rods?

I wouldnt give that clown $1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laughinxxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those rods need viagra. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. makes me feel better i put my stock intake back on

good luck on the rebuild

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IB spec rods?

I wouldnt give that clown $1 </TD></TR></TABLE>

bad guy or bad rods??

its too late anyway i already have them

 

Wowsers! Who woulda thought that water doesn't compress very easily?

Good luck on the build!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

man this the kind of **** you see walking around the junkyard after it rained for 3 days strait!!! motors filled with water.... , holy ****..

that sucks , hope you didn't **** your crank up, but keep us up to date on the new build

 

when i first hit the water i new it was over instantly. when i removed the intake pipe from the TB water came pouring out! i knew it was gonna be bad....but i had no idea it was gonna be like this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95deckedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i first hit the water i new it was over instantly. when i removed the intake pipe from the TB water came pouring out! i knew it was gonna be bad....but i had no idea it was gonna be like this</TD></TR></TABLE>

so was there any damage to the head? or the block? just the rods and pistons..?

 

just the block, head is fine thank god

we just put that head on not even a month ago. brand new valves,seal,guides you name it. that thing was spotless and $$$

 

The head looks a-ok. The crank and main bearing cap journals are fine, luckily nothing spun. I am taking the motor to the machine shop this afternoon to have it further inspected. The only thing I am worried is at the very bottom of the sleeves where the rod hit. It should not matter since the motor is being resleeved, any further damage near the sleeves should be able to be fixed with a bit of a weld and some shaving.

 

yeah as soon as i saw this pic i could tell his rods were toast

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you live in the GA/NC/SC area and would like quality motor work done with very reasonable prices, send me a PM. I am located in Charleston, SC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too bad i'm 1k miles away

 

Is your insurance covering any of it??

I am about to install my AEM intake this weekend too.

 

Yikes, looks worse than my motor!