http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Ser...e.htm

I have read and talked to people that say you should do completly diffrent procedures for this and that. But I thought i would ask for your ideas on this. The only reason i ask, this sounds a bit harsh, although Hastings has been around for a long while.

-sander

 

for my motor i just drive it easy for 3k miles
oil change at 1k

 

They're directions are pretty good. They WILL work...

Personally I dont go by mph, they dont even tell you what rpms..

I just let it warm up, idle for 15 minutes. Let it cool down, change the oil, retorque the head and double check valve lash. Take it back out and do 75% throttle runs from 3000-7000 in 3rd, letting off the gas each time, leaving it in gear, and then repeat. Do this 10x! Motor is broken in. Come back change oil, drive it normally until next oil change 2000-3000 miles and then make your switch to synthetic if you desire.

All of the above can be done on the dyno as well for those that want to know. Works even better on a mustang dyno, or any dyno with a brake so that you can apply load to the motor to push the rings unto the freshly honed cylinders.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They're directions are pretty good. They WILL work...

Personally I dont go by mph, they dont even tell you what rpms..

I just let it warm up, idle for 15 minutes. Let it cool down, change the oil, retorque the head and double check valve lash. Take it back out and do 75% throttle runs from 3000-7000 in 3rd, letting off the gas each time, leaving it in gear, and then repeat. Do this 10x! Motor is broken in. Come back change oil, drive it normally until next oil change 2000-3000 miles and then make your switch to synthetic if you desire. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the reply, I was really looking to see if this just applied to big V-8s as maybe they use diffrent numbers of rings or diffrent ring designs. Ive built a couple motors before and ive done the "easy" break in before, with varied results. I was really just curious if this works as im going to re ring my motor and will be using these (hastings) rings. Any more input from people that use THIS method or have real insight how this method would be hurtful would be appreicated

-sander

 

Yep, works great. Have done this procedure many times.

I drive it gently to the sticks(not far for me), then run it up (@75% throttle) to about 6-7000 rpms then while in gear let it coast down to about 2500 rpms, repeat about 10 times.

I then bring it back, double check for leaks, change the oil/filter, everything else. Then I drive it "normal" for about 200 miles, then free for all

 

Awesome, more input?

-sander

 

Info

-sander

 

very good thread

so this break in method is good even for stock rings?

i always thought you fire it up, let it run for 15 min, change oil, check everything over

then drive for about 1000 miles, and every 100 miles while reaching the first 1000 you slowly increase your rpms.

keeping in mind every 200 miles change the oil and re-torquing if needed

 

I'm wonderin the same thing. is this a good procedure for a mostly oem build??? I will have a 11.7 compression ls/vtec.

 

This is a good break-in for race motors, oem motor, street cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, tractors, ice cream trucks etc....any piston motor.

 

so one major factor in doing this watching out for wash out, since these motors are going to make some good power

im running stock injectors, but with the chip that im running, it is very very rich

should i open up the ecu and cut the jumper wire? or jsut get another stock ecu

aswell, should i dis-engage vtec while breaking in the motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridnorth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so one major factor in doing this watching out for wash out, since these motors are going to make some good power

im running stock injectors, but with the chip that im running, it is very very rich

should i open up the ecu and cut the jumper wire? or jsut get another stock ecu

aswell, should i dis-engage vtec while breaking in the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on set up. Cut jumper wire? Get fuel managment instead of beating around the bush, and id kind of like to keep this strictly about Break in procedures, and see what other engine builders use. No offense

-sander

 

no offense taken

but do people still use vtec while breaking in the motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridnorth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no offense taken

but do people still use vtec while breaking in the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've touched VTEC when breaking in motors, you don't want to aggressively hit VTEC, but going into VTEC won't hurt anything.

I've run Toda B and C cams and VTEC is set @ 7100 or so for me, so the last two engines I broke in didn't have to go into VTEC. Main thing your doing is setting the rings during break-in, VTEC or no VTEC doesn't really come into play.

 

Still would like more insight, I would have thought this would have been a more covered topic on a tech based website. So lets make this thread a Break in thread!

-sander

 

The most important piece of information you should take from that site is the following:

The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The most important piece of information you should take from that site is the following:

The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I stand by hastings as they have been doing piston rings for quite a while. And i also understand the theolgy behind the break in procedures, Im looking for opinions of other engine builders and their specific break in procedures. That is very important info i completely agree with you

-sander

 

what about engine tempurature? being hard on a freshly built engine, the heat factors

even thou your driving around, being exposed to that heat still effects

from what i heard, a new motor will tend to run hotter than normal

 

does everyone re-torque the head?

 

my favorite break in method.

install engine
drive to dyno
begin full throttle passes
go to track
get trophy/all the bitches

 

I've been told to warm it up change the oil frequently and run the f*cker hard in all gears and in different rpm intervals.

btw this might be some help http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackSpeed-616 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get trophy/all the bitches</TD></TR></TABLE>

****** A man.

Good to hear fellas, Now i would just like to emphasize i do care about longevity and oil control, This is a street motor that i am speaking of. But the more people ive been talking to the more say that this method is also good for street cars, like TodaSi and MaxBoost said before me.

Keep it coming.


-sander

 

We use alot of hastings on our race motors. What Hastings says works well.
We put them motor together put in the car ang go straight to the dyno. We do a few warm ups on the motor and them we beat the s*it out of it . It works every time.

 

so breaking in the car hard is the way to go, take this scenario, fully built engine running 11.7:1 cr, toda b's, and only a base map for tuning,s200. the rollers are 50 miles away. dunno where the car runs rich or lean. too worried to step on it incase of major leaning out. only reason i'm asking is because im in this situation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L33T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been told to warm it up change the oil frequently and run the f*cker hard in all gears and in different rpm intervals.

btw this might be some help http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

That website and http://www.importbuilders.com has a good review section as well, follow what those site say like you were following a hott blonde girl with 34Ds down the street as you stare at her ***, LOL. Anyways, follow those steps for a great break in.