ok guys its gonna be time soon to break in the new d series . aebs sleeved cp pistons and pauter rods . im gonna take it easy no boost for at least 200 miles to let the rings seat properly . my question is oil . should i break it in on non synthetic oil? on the initial startup , how long do i let it run before i change the oil to get the all the assembly lube out? what is the process for this . thanks

 

use the shity non-detergent oil. dont use synthetic. start it up, let it idle and check for leaks. change the oil and filter, then do whatever break in method your using. im going to change my oil and filter every 50 miles up to 200, then every 100-150 for a couple more.

Landon

 

ya ill just pick up some castrol gtx 5w30 for the startup . then break it in with redline 5w30 . so you think its nessicary to change the filter that often?

 

Not from personal experience, but people I've talked to about this said to use non-synthetic for the whole break-in period. Also do this,<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use the shity non-detergent oil. dont use synthetic. start it up, let it idle and check for leaks. change the oil and filter, then do whatever break in method your using. im going to change my oil and filter every 50 miles up to 200, then every 100-150 for a couple more.

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's always better safe than sorry........Good Luck

 

use regular valvoline or penzoil oil and stuff

turn the engine ON for first time
let it run until it goes thru 2 heat cycles (when fan kicks on and off)

turn engine off.....
change the oil and filter

then start engine and give it the break in period


remember to run it kinda hard the first 25 mi so the rings seat properly and give u the best seal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use regular valvoline or penzoil oil and stuff

turn the engine ON for first time
let it run until it goes thru 2 heat cycles (when fan kicks on and off)

turn engine off.....
change the oil and filter

then start engine and give it the break in period


remember to run it kinda hard the first 25 mi so the rings seat properly and give u the best seal

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do this, but use non-detergant oil. Detergant oil keeps dirt and debris in suspension. You DO NOT want to do this on a brand new engine.

Also I wouldn't run it too hard for the first 25 miles. Get into your mid rpm ranges at around 50-70% throttle.

 

search for the breaking in motor thread it will tell you everything

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShowTymers619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">search for the breaking in motor thread it will tell you everything</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good advice, just to sum it up for you, use non-synthetic, and don't baby it! If you do, your rings wont seat, and you'll regret it for the life of the internals. You don't need to beat the **** out of it, just get some full engine breaking to seat the rings.

 

So do you drive it easy or not for the break in? I am currentlly breakin in my engine and have taken it easy.Just going to 3k revs in all gears..I have done 60mph highway driving but not really hard acceleration yet..The motor just has 55 miles on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fjt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So do you drive it easy or not for the break in? I am currentlly breakin in my engine and have taken it easy.Just going to 3k revs in all gears..I have done 60mph highway driving but not really hard acceleration yet..The motor just has 55 miles on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the thing you have to remember is most peoples mentality comes from the old school muscle car guys with their huge cast iron cylinder walls and rings, which they have a HUGE window for break-in. our tiny little aluminum imports have a lot smaller room for break-in as they are a lot softer. so if you break it in too easy, the crosshatch "rough" pattern of the freshly honed cylinder walls will be gone before the rings have time to wear in.
you can think of the walls as sandpaper trying to file the rings to a PERFECT cylinder shape.

mike

 

with 55 miles already on the motor, some would say that you have already passed your window of opportunity for the ideal break-in method. It supposedly is within the first 20 miles or so....I'm not stating this from experience, but I would suggest finding out more before you continue on what could be the wrong path........Good Luck

 

Why would that be like that if Endyn recomends 1000 miles of break in? and thats for Honda motors..They even say to not pass from 3000rpms during the first 250 miles. They only mention 2 oil changes,1 at 500 miles and 1 at the end of break in and switching to synthetic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FwdCivicHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with 55 miles already on the motor, some would say that you have already passed your window of opportunity for the ideal break-in method. It supposedly is within the first 20 miles or so....I'm not stating this from experience, but I would suggest finding out more before you continue on what could be the wrong path........Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

You need to follow the advice of whomever built the motor, the specific directions depend on machining process for the cylinder walls, and what type of rings you are using. Assuming you had someone assemble your motor, follow what they told you, and complain if it breaks.

 

ok so how do i tell if i get a non detergent oil??? which oils are non detergent?

so dont go to the drags with a new motor but dont drive it like grandma thats the feelings im getting . i saw that "Breaking in your motor" thread a while back . and its useless . its just a debate on how you should break your motor in . i agree that babying the motor too hard will be worse for the new motor . i just want to get the lubrication right because it wont matter how the car is driven if the lubrication is wrong.

 

IMO, I would break it in the 'Hard' way in the 1st 20miles, then normal no VTEC or in the low rpm range (if no VTEC) driving for for about 1k miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so how do i tell if i get a non detergent oil??? which oils are non detergent?

so dont go to the drags with a new motor but dont drive it like grandma thats the feelings im getting . i saw that "Breaking in your motor" thread a while back . and its useless . its just a debate on how you should break your motor in . i agree that babying the motor too hard will be worse for the new motor . i just want to get the lubrication right because it wont matter how the car is driven if the lubrication is wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will say non-detergant or ND on it.

 

i just saw a website the other day about breaking in motors . gimme some time , imma go search for it .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It will say non-detergant or ND on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

where can i find the stuff

is it just regular non synthetic oil or is it special , where can i find it

 

just get plain simple oil cheapo oil

 

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

so just get cheapo oil ok. should i break in on 5w30?

 

i think im going to do it like this. 5w30 ND oil , start the car and let it warm up fully . shut it down , and let it cool . start it again and let it warm fully then shut it down . change the oil and filter to regular non synthetic oil and run it for 200 miles not fully racing it but not babying it . change the oil again to synthetic 5w30 and be on my way

 

I don't recommend goign synthetic until about 1000 miles or so. Definately not after 200 miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think im going to do it like this. 5w30 ND oil , start the car and let it warm up fully . shut it down , and let it cool . start it again and let it warm fully then shut it down . change the oil and filter to regular non synthetic oil and run it for 200 miles not fully racing it but not babying it . change the oil again to synthetic 5w30 and be on my way</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you read the mototune page at all? I'm guessing not, either that or ignorance is bliss. Read the page....learn....apply!

 

Drive it like you stole it! Talk to ENGINE BUILDERS and see what they tell you.